Quilting for Decorators

[katied]

Does anyone here quilt for decorators? How are you charging and what do you offer? Limited patterns? Do you usually completely finish the spreads? How about quilting soft cornices maybe with a trapunto type effect. This seems like it would be a good market. Thanks, Linda Kate

[Grammie]

Well I am doing my first DECORATOR project at this time. I have to admit I'm not sure I am enjoying the process just yet. The fabrics are heavy and slippery as well.

I am quilting 3 different sets.

Two sets are for the Cornices for windows and they are 30 x 100 and the Quilt is 124x 124. I am doing the CLAM SHELL throughout. My CQ has made this task much easier to approach as far as the quilting of it.

I will CHARGE MORE for any FUTURE Projects of this Scale.

I only charged .015 and will charge more in the future. It was ALOT of work to load this fabric and TWO layers of PUFF batting. It is difficult to pull it tight as there are SEAMS on both BACKING and TOP. It is quilting beautifully though I must admit.

Remember that alot of Decorator fabrics FRAY on the edges so INSIST that a stay stitch in done around the paramenter of the fabric (BOTH top and BOTTOM) and INSIST they remove SALVAGES!! Trust me on this one. I'm New at this Stuff myself so I'm no expert. This is just my experience. Best wishes.

[bstucker]

I have to second what Grammie says about quilting decorator fabric....you should charge more as the fabrics are quite heavy, and more difficult to load. I've done a few bedspreads with cording that I had to stop at, and then resume. Two didn't have the selvages removed, and I had to clip them every inch or so just to get the backing to load evenly....and all the fabrics frayed like mad. I charged .018 for these bedspreads and used a fairly open pantograph. The fabrics did quilt beautifully, and I had no tension problems. The last bedspread I did was in four sections...the center, two sides and an end panel for the center. Once I figured out how the pattern should run in each section, it was an easy job to quilt as the sections were a reasonable size.

[Alice]

I just had a not-so-great experience with a decorator. She wanted a reversible quilt. The top was a floral - very heavy - and the backing was an acetate - more lightweight. She literally dropped off the fabrics and batting. I had to piece the top, matching the designs, and had to use one selvage on each panel in order to match. The backing also had to be sewn. The batting was a 48" wide 8 oz. batting on a roll - also had to be pieced! Once I got it loaded, I quilted it with a wavy diamond pattern which was what she wanted. But then she wanted me to put a 1" thick cording around the sides and bottom. And she wanted it reversible so that I had to also put a very narrow binding in the lining fabric around the edge to cover up the cording cut edge. Well, she stitched the cording with white thread and stitched too close to the cording itself. With my domestic machine and zipper foot (I don't have a 1" cording foot!), I tried to stitch the binding to the cording first before even trying to stitch it to the quilt. Couldn't get close enough with my zipper foot to cover her stitching! When I told her it wasn't going to happen, she asked me to take it to another person who has a workroom and have this person "show me how to do it!" I very nicely assured her that I knew how to do it but that I simply didn't have the tools. I ended up taking it over to this other lady who very graciously just took over the remainder of the job. She confirmed that the cording was made improperly and that for the types of fabric, she should not have used 8 oz batting! I didn't feel so bad! But I learned a valuable lesson. Never let someone talk you into something that you don't want to do or have the necessary tools. I already knew that putting on a cording this thick was not something that I ever want to do. Leave that to the decorators. But I wanted to make an impression so I agreed to it. Now, don't get me wrong - I think that I need to challenge myself. But only for something that I have the tools to do and that I really want to do. I charged $.015 a square inch for the quilting - should have charged more because of the size and weight of these fabrics (the quilt was so large and heavy that I actually had a hard time carrying it - I cannot image sleeping under this thing - I'd suffocate!). I was going to charge $3.00 a linear foot to put on the cording, binding and hand sew the binding down. Looking back, even that wasn't enough! Thankfully, the decorator was understanding and I think I might get some future business from her - but I'll stop at the quilting and only finish something if it is more like a quilt. Sorry for the lengthy dissertation - I had to vent!

[LindaSusieQuilts]

My son asked If I was intrested in doing work for he decorator he works with on some jobs....... I was leary and now know I would be a nervous wreck. I get nervous enough with regular quilts

[jeanros]

Linda,

I have worked for decorates before and I finally refused to work for them, simply because they wanted me to work for peanuts. I had plenty of orders from regular customers that will pay what I want. I feel I work hard enough for every penny, so be sure t o charge enough.:mad:

[jeri]

Hi Linda, I've done several for decorators via the people who do upholstering and decorator type sewing for them. They have been either comforters or just yards of fabric they were going to incorporate into whatever they were doing. I have a few rules and a separate pricing sheet for quilting puffy batts (a tiny bit higher than my regular rates). I provide the batting or I don't quilt it. There are a couple of batting sources for the fatter poly batts and you can get them in wide widths and the fatter the batt the less yardage in the roll ie: 15 yards. I only use poly thread such as Perma Core as cotton threads will shred and the thinner polys such as SoFine will break. I will only use simple open designs, I don't want to deal with intricate designs using fatter batts. I did one with a light weight back and heavy decorator fabric top--not again. I helps to have the fabrics closer in weight and weave to avoid tension and puckering problems. I don't do binding for them. The last one I did I had to remove the top "belly" roller as there wasn't enough room to roll the quilt -- it was crosshatched with a 9" separation between stitching lines, heavy fabric top and bottom, and 20 oz batting

[MIGO]

OHMIGOD! I can't believe someone is quilting cotton quilts with polyester thread! The rule of the thread is that the thread must must be weaker than the fabric. If not, after extended wear, polyester thread will cut the cotton fabric along the seam line, thereby making it impossible to repair. On the other hand, polyester fabric cuts cotton thread, and if you use cotton thread to sew polyester (or cotton poly blend) fabric, you will find your seams continually coming apart. Once I learned this I finally understood why the quilt made for my niece her by grandmother had completely fallen apart at the seam lines (polyester thread sewing cotton fabric) and I understood why I was continually having to mend my husband's light-weight jacket--I was using cotton thread on polyester fabric. I would never quilt a cotton quilt (especially one that is expected to get heavy wear) with anything except 100% cotton. The quilter (and the customer) need to know about the properties of non-cotton thread.

[MarieBrewer]

For what it's worth-I spoke to the people at Superior Threads today and asked about using poly thread on cotton and cotton on poly and she said that nowadays you can use either on whichever fabric you chose. She said years ago you had to be fabric specific but with changes in technology regarding fabric and thread, it just isn't true any more. Anyway, I was quite concerned because I use maiinly So Fine on everything and really like it.

[JudyL]

Migo, it really is accepted to use poly or poly/cotton thread on cotton fabric. Many have done it for years. Some are still "cotton purists" and I tend to be one of those but when I know a quilt is going to be used by children or if I'm doing a panto with quilting that isn't real dense, I will discuss the use of poly thread with the customer and they have always agreed that I use it.

My mom made a quilt for my son about 15 years ago. She used cotton fabric but the quilt is pieced with poly thread and quilted with poly/cotton thread. That quilt has been used and used and used and the binding fabric is starting to fray but there is no damage to the fabric from the thread.

There is a lady locally that only uses Maxi-lock thread for her longarming. I quilt some for a lady who also uses this longarmer and she said the quilts that were quilted with Maxi-lock for her grandkids have been washed over and over and they are fine.

I think it's quite safe to use poly thread and if Superior Threads says it's ok, and with my own experiences, I would not hesitate to use poly or poly/cotton thread on a quilt.

[MIGO]

I am considering buying a longarm, and my concern at present is which (or whether any) longarm today works perfectly with cotton thread, or if they work best only when using polyester thread. I am distressed to learn that the Introductory Package contains a spool of polyester thread!

To Marie & JudyL

--I'm only trying to inform you and others of what the thread companies won't. They are in business to sell thread. Am I to believe that you expected a thread company to say something like, "Yes, our thread will cut your quilt (but not for a long time). Buy it anyway." ? ? ?

--"Acceptable" is a matter of degree. My standards are much higher than "acceptable."

--Am I to believe that that you believe that "changes in technology" make polyester in the past different from polyester of the present? Now, how can that be? Has polyester changed and is no longer stronger than cotton? If polyester has changed its properties, then it is no longer polyester. If polyester has not changed it properties, over time polyester thread will cut cotton fabric. (And yes, cotton-wrapped polyester thread is stronger than cotton fabric.)

The rule of the thread says that the thread must be weaker than the fabric.

I thought it was an important point to share with readers inasmuch as very few people seem to know this. I'm looking at a much- loved, much-used, much-washed, tied cotton comforter cut irreparably on the seam lines by polyester thread. Yes, I am a purist. I'm also a cynic. I also believe that sales people will tell you whatever you want to hear if it will result in a sale.

[ffq-lar]

Two Cents Worth----

I'm reading these poly/cotton posts with some interest. Migo, it seems like you are saying that a pieced/tied quilt is cut at the seam line by the poly thread done for the piecing. My thought would be that a TIED quilt would have lots of stress on the piecing (especially a much-washed/much-loved one) where perhaps a top QUILTED with poly thread would not have any stress on the piecing-might even be stronger. We all might need to agree to disagree on this subject! Lots of room for lots of opinions!

Linda Rech

Olympia,Wa

[MarieBrewer]

Yes, I do believe that polyester thread of the past could be different from poly of the present. I don't know if the spinning technique has changed, or perhaps something has been added in the process of producing the thread. I'm no expert but I wonder why people have been buying and quilting with poly thread for the past however many years and I haven't seen complaints about using it. You would think there would be warning posts everywhere on this subject and no one buying the product any longer. How many people make poly fabric quilts (few) -but the demand for poly thread still seems to be here. Must be something to this logic. You are right, a salesman can tell you anything you want to hear. There are times that I trust a person who has more knowledge than I have. I haven't used cotton yet but as soon as it arrives I will. From former posts, it sounds as though many people use cotton very successfully on the Mille.

[SandraC]

Hi there.....

I'm thinking that a lot of sales people WILL tell you what you want to hear, but with some companies you get a feel right away that they care about what is done with their products and that the customer is satisfied. I know that I can be somewhat of a "pollyanna" but I like to think that some companies out there are wanting you to be a repeat customer so will be honest about the usage of their products.

By the way, I am about to start trying to get more familiar with Superior threads and will be searching past threads on this forum for some helpful info...Bottom Line seems to be a favourite, for example. I also think I'm on the verge of starting a Dear Jane quilt, to be pieced by hand, and want to find a good thread for that, as well. Maybe MasterPiece would be a good one to try.

I also am in favour of "agreeing to disagree"!!!!!

Have a great spring day.........Sandra

[nemorn]

I used to also be a cotton purist, however I think if you did a little poll....especially if you are considering a longarm. Call all the longarmer's you know and see if they are using poly. I'll bet you almost 100% of them are. When I piece and make quilts I use only cotton. So instead of just taking our work for it call a few and they will all tell you the same thing. These thread company's are in the business of repeat business they would only be shooting themselves in the foot if they were "lying" in order to sell a few spools. ;-)

[jeri]

MIGO, I love cotton threads and use them on most quilts. They work beautifully in my Millie. I do steer far away from the cheaper linty threads such as Coats, Star, and Signature. My current favorite for most quilting is Presencia and for variegated it's Sulky Blendables, occasionally King Tutt if Sulky doesn't have the right colors. Harriet Hargrave is raving about Presencia. ((She's coming out with a new thread study this fall with lots of the newer threads. Can't wait to see it!!!)) If I can ever figure out how to get my shopping cart to work on my web site I will be selling this thread and the Sulky blendables either online or locally here in Kansas City. If you want to try it e-mail me. I will have my start-up order of neutrals in sometime next week both in the 50/3 wt 3,797 yard cones and the 500 meter spools.

However, there are times that Bottom Line and the thin Sew Fine work beautifully together for small background fillers where you want a thinner thread or for SID that is there for structure but you don't want the thread to stand out. If I am going to use a poly thread I usually get the owner's permission. I have a number of regulars who I know don't mind so I use whatever is appropriate.

Also there are those occasional thick poly batts that simply shred cotton threads and Perma Core does well as it's a strong thread. Also there are times when you want a special look such as invisible, metalic, or the shiney look of rayon or rayon look threads such as Rainbow for accents.

This longarm has turned me into a thread junkie!!!! Try out lots of threads and see what works best for you and consider what your customers prefer.