quill Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 What is the factory "preset" for the upper tension adjustment? If I were to tighten the knurled nut to the maximum, how many turns back would be a good "ballpark" starting point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyLake Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Hi ~ If you haven't turned the tension knob since the machine arrived, it should already be set for a good tension, because APQS always runs the machines before packing for shipment. To test the upper tension, you can pull on the thread as it exits the needle. It should pull firmly, but not so tight that it flexes the needle. Best wishes with your new Lenni! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-Jane Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 This depends on a lot, thread type, quilt thickness, materials, humidity, etc. If your using so-fine, I start with about 3 complete turns in from the outside ---Top of the post and the knurled nut even on the end. Make sure your bobbin is set correctly first! This is just a starting point I use and adjust from there, after a while you'll know what threads your using require what,"about setting". When you try new ones experiment and find the right tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterfly Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 It may take a while to figure out how to get it just right. I remember struggling for a long time, but eventually I became able to know the feel of the right tension as I pulled on the thread. I hope you don't take as long as I did. One thing I did to help me along was to put a little dot on my tension knob with a sharpie so I could see how far I turned it. Jess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quill Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 If I were to tighten the knurled nut to the MAXIMUM tightness, how many turns back toward loose "IS THE FACTORY" starting point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustSewSimple Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 They have answered your question. We have no way of knowing what thread they tested your machine with nor what fabric nor what bobbin thread. Tension will vary accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katydids Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 If you turn the knob back to where the part you screw is flush with the inner screw, that is the "neutral" or starting point if you will. I don't know "how many turns" it is, just turn it back so that the 2 pieces are flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quill Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Adding thread type, size and style and then bobbins, material, batting, etc are the variables that need to be compensated for. There is only the one "factory preset", thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-Jane Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 I guess in a nutshell, The same factors that I described above effect the factory also---so there setting for testing will also vary by the outside influences on the mechanical friction of the tensioner discs. I don't think you should crank the knurled nut all the way in as this will cause abnormal pressure on the tensioner spring. Start with everything even on the outermost end, (right side) of the nut and the threaded screw of the tensioner post. Patty is right, do this and adjust from there. I guess to say that there is no factory preset other than the testing tension they applied with the conditions that effect the tension at the time they tested your machine. Dave B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quill Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Dave you ever work on a GM carburetor? All GM carbs can be "preset" to 2-1/4 turns out from a seated idle needle valve. That fuel-air ratio will allow the engine to start. That is the "factory preset". Now you might be 30% off from running OPTIMUMLY (depending on temperature, humidity, altitude, grade of gas, etc.) but it is "a starting point" or commonly called "the factory preset". Thanks for the reply! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meg Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 thanks patty - i never knew this! Originally posted by Katydids If you turn the knob back to where the part you screw is flush with the inner screw, that is the "neutral" or starting point if you will. I don't know "how many turns" it is, just turn it back so that the 2 pieces are flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-Jane Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Apples, Oranges- or just a good place to start! Have a Great Day! Dave B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 quill--my advice is to try not to sound so testy when you feel you aren't getting what you think is the "correct" answer. ***If you offend the helpers, soon there is no help forthcoming.*** The chatters here know vast amounts about our machines and usually share freely. Some of us even know something about carburetors! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quill Posted November 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2010 Ever notice how people love to give their opinion with off-topic comments? :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustSewSimple Posted November 13, 2010 Report Share Posted November 13, 2010 Linda Rech is a wise lady. She gives good advice. You should consider it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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