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HELP! Re: Floating Top


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Joy, I didn't remove any rollers and I always float my tops. I just don't use the roller you would normally attach your top to (just behind the one I call the "belly" bar - the one you attach your backing material to). I wrapped Press & Seal around the canvas to keep it out of the way.

You need the take-up roller to roll your quilted quilt!

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Guest Linda S

You can float your tops without removing any of the rollers. I personally do not like to do a full float of my tops. I have better control with a partial float.

Linda

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What a great idea. The press and seal. I put the roller back on all by myself. It was like wrestling an alligator, but I did it. Turned out I didn't have my quilt UNDER the leveler bar. DUH!!!! I have done that so many times. When will I EVER learn.

Anyway, I like the press and seal idea. Thank you. Thank you too, Linda. You all are great.

Hugs, Joy

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Hi FrammaJoy:

I don't know how many times I loaded a quilt back & didn't put it under the leveler bar, so I had this great idea................got myself some colored tape (red & yellow) from the $ store & wrapped it around that leveler bar so it would be hard to miss.

It worked , I haven't forgotten, even once since I did it..............:)

Sometimes I need a little help in the memory department.;)

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Linda S, I would like to know what a partial float is as well. Here's what I do and you can tell me what kind of "float" this is... I pin my backing to the take up and the front roller and then I lay my batting down on top and pin to the backing (not a leader) and then I lay the quilt top down on top and pin to the batting which is pinned to the backing. Makes sense? Then I have my batting and quilt top hanging down in front loosely and I just tuck it under the frame so I'm not stepping on it when I'm quilting. Is that a "full float?" Thank you.

Gable

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Guest Linda S

Okay - explanation of a partial float (at least in my mind):

1. I have zippers -- I never pin, it is against my religion:P;

2. I zip on the backing and roll it up on the belly bar;

3. I zip the quilt top to the quilt top leader and roll it up, smoothing it out as I go;

4. I zip the quilt backing to the take-up leader, advancing the quilt so that the zipper is almost to the leveler bar;

5. I scootch (technical term) the batting between the backing and quilt top and place the top edge about two inches below the zipper;

6. I set my horizontal channel lock and stitch the batting to the backing -- nice straight line all the way across;

7. Using the center marking on the take-up roller and the pin I have in the center of the quilt top, I lay the top edge of the quilt top along my very straight stitching line at the top of my batting. I sometimes pin (ouch!) it down in a few spots, or I use some Sulky KK2000 to stick it down (the spray disappears after 2-3 days);

8. I stitch the quilt top all the way across the top, about 1/4" from the edge, parallel to the stitching I just put in the batting. I put some painter's tape on the take-up roller at the edges of the quilt, so I know where to line up the edges as I roll down through the quilt.

Having the quilt on the quilt roller helps me add a little vertical tension to the top if I need it. I have tried the 'full float' and really do not like handling my quilts this way. However, whatever 'floats' your boat is the right way for you.

Linda

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Got it. You actually have BOTH of your front rollers loaded. The roller on the back of the machine holds ONLY the backing.

Is that right? That is the way I had been doing it, and I prefer it because it holds the front edge of the quilt top taut. I didn't like it floating around.

The "take-up" roller is the one on the back side of the table, correct??? Trying to picture which one the tape goes on.

Hugs, Joy

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Guest Linda S

Barb - I stitch my backings and quilt tops to the zippers using a chain stitch machine. When I get to the bottom of the quilt, I pull the thread and it comes off the zipper. Then I roll the leader out of the way and can stitch off the end of the quilt (if doing an all-over) or I can stitch 1/4" away from the bottom and finish the bottom border. I love that my setup has made life so very easy for me.

Linda

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So Linda, when you say you unsitch at the bottom, you mean the top right, not the backing too?

Your explanation is so clear on how to load. thank you so much. so now I have a question, I just got my zippers, I understand how to put them on the take up leader, but am confused on the bottom and top leaders. I know this cannot be this hard. I have misplaced my directions somewhere "safe" so don't know if that information is clear on them or not. before I call and ask for new ones thought I would ask here as everyone is so helpful.

thank you in advance

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I have learned so much about chain stitch machines since this topic was up last time....Thanks to Linda. I love her machine - it is a beauty. However, if you cannot get one of those antique cuties....Singer Touch and Sew Series 600 and 700 have the chain stitch feature. They must have the bobbin winder in the bobbin case area. If you search the internet under Singer Touch and Sew 600 or 700 there is a web site of a guy that was just full of information. I just purchased a Singer 628 at an estate sale. I brought it home, cleaned it up, oiled it, read the manual on how to set up the chain stitch and it works perfect. Next...getting time to put those zippers on.

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Gable428,

I think what you were describing is actually a full float since

the bottom of the quilt top is not attached (pinned or

zipped) to a roller. The top of the quilt top is pinned/basted

to the batting/back thus floated but not to the leader.

I used to do a partial float, that is, on the top, I (floated)

pinned the quilt top to batting and back but not to leader

and attached the bottom of the quilt top to a zipper which

was attached to the middle roller (or the roller inside from

the belly roller).

I started doing the full float when I found that so many of my

quilts had these elongated bottom corners (dog ears). :(

(Woof) As I quilted, the quilt 'pulled in' or shrank from the

sides....except at the bottom edge where it was 'nailed' to

the zipper/leader.

I think we all do whatever works for us. A full float does

require more 'smoothing' as you go and then some extra

work when you get to the bottom, because then you do have

to anchor it to the batting/back in order to stitch the bottom

border. But the 2 bottom corners don't get stretched as

much for me.

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I stitched 4 inch strips of muslin to the zippers and either use a chain stitch (from a babylock serger) or just a large stitch with weak thread so I don't wreck the zippers by constantly stitching on them. I was using velcro the same way as the zippers but the batting would catch on the hook side sometimes. I have a Singer Futura 920 that also has the chainstitch feature but it is in the main house, not the house I do the quilting in.

Went to Lancaster last Saturday, what a treat. We saw so many beautiful quilts, all done by hand. We od'd on fabric however. What great selections they have. Spent more than I should have but it's only money. I did see some dimensional blocks and am trying to replicate them. There were no patterns. I will have to make my own like I did with the five pointed star that turned out to be a pentacle. They still look good to me.

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