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Need Help with assembly (quilt before or after)


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Ladies I need help and knew this was the place to find it.  Am making a coat with Amy Butler pattern.  Had decided to quilt fabric before cutting (and I have done this before).  However, this pattern has a seam down the middle of back and I am wondering what kind of a  quilting pattern one would use to have it look OK when the back pieces are joined.   The back pieces are not straight as  the coat  is somewhat flared.     And I volunteered to do this after some very not so subtle hints.    

 

Please, please give me a few suggestions.  Have not garment sewed in a number of years (quilting now comes first), but this pattern looked relatively simple until I decided to add the quilting feature.

 

Has anyone tried crosshatching on something like this?  How difficult would it be to match pattern of crosshatching when I go to cut back?      

 

Anyone's help will be greatly appreciated.     Don't want to lose my standing as the "Grandma who fixes things".

 

Marilyn

 

 

 

 

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Ditto what Chris said. If you can't eliminate the seam  then I would not cross hatch; it will be just like trying to match a plaid and in the flared section you won't have great success. Of course, this all depends on how busy the fabric is and how much the quilting shows. I would likely do a swirly all over design that won't look chopped up if you must seam it. If you can quilt the fabric before you cut it out and eliminate the seam it will be much better. Good Luck and let us know how it comes out!

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Great advice from Chris!

If the flare is pronounced at the back seam you won't be able to match crosshatching. Perhaps an overall design like a medium stipple or a ribbon meander would be a good choice--with curves that won't be objectionable at the seam. 

You'll find as you join the quilted pieces that the bulk will need to be trimmed away (the batting and the lining fabric) so you can get a nice flat seam. 

Maybe look on-line for some quilted-garment tutorials.

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You could do a diagonal pattern, randomly spaced lines, fills between the lines in some places, like modern quilting. Lines/fills on one half would slant like a forward slash...on the other side of the back, they would slant like a backslash, making a V in the center of the back. The lines don't have to match since the spacing on the quilting is random.

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I am not much of a garment maker and hadn't even tried in a long time but I recently made a little jacket for my granddaughter and quilted the fabric first before putting the pieces together. Managing the seams was really difficult.

My inclination in the future would be to trace each pattern piece onto the outer fabric an then quilt each piece up to the seam line by laying them separately on the mounted batting and backing.

If you did this you could sew the two back pieces together before quilting them.

Maybe one of the excellent garment makers on this forum can weigh in on this.

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And all of your suggestions have given me reason to rethink this whole project.  I have a jacket which has two layers of fabric quilted, without batting, and love the look and is great for summer.   Might try that as it should eliminate heavy seams.    Can't get rid of the back seam as it will change look of coat; and  the  pattern did not call for quilting anyway.   Just thought it would make it a little heavier and  caring for it much easier if it were quilted.   (Granddaughter is 15 and my DD will make sure she cares for it herself.)

 

But there are three wonderful ideas from Linda R. and Lynn.  I think granddaughter would like all of these ideas.

 

Thanks, Ladies and I will look at quilted-garment tutorials.  When one reaches my age, the brain only functions part-time; if at all.

 

What would I do without this site and all of the sharing people.

 

Marilyn

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If you want to quilt two pieces of yardage together without batting, stitch the entire piece of doubled yardage together before using the pattern to cut out the pieces. The quilting will suck up some fabric and loading the pieces on both top and bottom rollers will assist in keeping the fabric relatively flat and evenly quilted.

To assemble the pieces, a French seam can be used to make the garment reversible. Very cute to use two fabrics. This of course is possible as long as there are no facings or in-seam pockets. OK for no-collar patterns and patch pockets. Other finishing options would be to either leave the double fabric seams alone and bind the outside edges and sleeves, cover the trimmed and opened seam allowances inside the garment with bias tape (purchased or made) to make it reversible, or stitch French seams and hand stitch the seams flat--again making the garment reversible. I've used this technique to make sweatshirt jackets with success.

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Now with all of these wonderful ideas, I am going to use the Thermore, quilt first, then cut out.  Will decide how to do seams after quilting and cutting.  It will depend on how thick it feels what kind of seams I will use.  Wuld love to make it reversible so will probably try some of Linda Rech's ideas.  Know I am going to use bias binding on neck, sleeves and all of the way around coat. It has no buttons or collar, so with the Thermore batting,  I won't have to use an interfacing.   Have never hand finished seams but think I may try that.    This is a project I have been dreading; but with all of the ideas finally I am getting enthused to begin.   Wish me luck!!!

 

Thanks gain, ladies and I am actually going to learn how to post a picture when I finish this project.t  I won't be done until mid-July as that is when daughter's family are coming to spend a couple of weeks. 

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