Sue White

New Owner of an Ultimate II

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Dawn, I see you have the old spoon foot on your machine.

We sell the 1/2" foot for ULT II's, so you can use all the rulers on the market with it!

email me at 1sheributler@gmail.com

if you are interested!

 

foot pic 1.bmp


F55CA928B31BF9D50E35FB71F402EFB1.png Millennium/Circle Lord 402-450-8321 Designer of the 1/2" foot for Ult II's. 1sheributler@gmail.com

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Thanks everyone for the advice. Clara is up and running with no tension issues. We had to lower the foot back down so I still have the problem of the foot pushing the fabric but at least I can use her. 

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Just a thought, what batting are you using?  With a very high loft batting my spoon foot would "push" my fabric along, also.  But with cotton, or low loft I had no problems.


8259635bf834a637a7febcce54170daf.png Sweet T's Custom Quilting Finley, TN  (731)-445-6411 sweet_t_quilting@yahoo.com

 

http://sweettsquilting.blogspot.com

https://www.facebook.com/SweetTsQuilting

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I recently watched the YouTube videos by Matt Sparrow an introduction to longarm. The video shows how to handle the fabric as you baste it on to keep it from shifting (even though they have a hopping foot, the concept is good). I've also started from the center and working to each side. It seems like a balance between having the foot low enough for good tension and stitching and just high enough to glide. I also got a 1/4 inch ruler foot from Nolting to use with the templates and rulers for my Ultimate II.

Michelle Baker

Ultimate II

Missoula, MT


Michelle Baker

Missoula, MT

Michelle.Quiltz@yahoo.com

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saw your picture, Jim-thanks...i'm going to look into fabricating a foot like that.

 

i had the same 'pushing' issues until i raised the foot a lot-it doesnt even touch the surface of the quilt now. 

when i was talking to the service dept, they said to ignore the 'spider' test when checking the bobbin tension (when you dangle the bobbin in the bobbin case, the case should slowly fall slowly, like a spider hanging from its web)

she told me to loosen the bobbin completely and then tighten just enough that when you hold the bobbin/case in the palm of your hand and pick it up by the bobbin thread, the thread tension should be just enough to stand the case on its side but not enough to lift it from your palm. she recommended keeping the bobbin that loose so all your tension adjustments would then be made at the top of your machine.  then, when doing your practise stitching, you can loosen/tighten the upper tension until it's balanced. 

I havent had any problem since...course, i also stopped using the Gllide thread. i dont have the time right now to experiment on my own quilts to get the tension set right. the one piece of advice they gave me was to add as much drag to the upper thread as you can BEFORE the tension disk.

i have 3 more large customer quilts to do before i have time for experimenting

 

jackie

western PA

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I ended up lifting my foot about 5 business cards and it's perfect now. Tracey Russell (APQS dealer) took pity on me and had a look at my machine.  She straighten out a lot of things and also fixed my tension. Everything was working good then I started getting a lot of thread breakage. It turned out I needed a new hook assembly. Clara is all better now and ready to go. I'm going to put my first quilt on the frame today. Fingers crossed that I have no more problems. 

 

I have to say if anyone is thinking of or looking to buy a longarm they should talk to Tracey. She is awesome! 

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I adjust my presser foot the thickness of a dime above the needle plate.  I set my bobbin tension at about 18 on my TOWA (180 on the newer gauges).  Being right handed, I rotated the "assist" lever to the right side of the presser foot bar, and as well as lifting the foot to clear obstructions, use it to do close work.  No need for micro handles.  I get nice tight stitches with those settings.

 

Jackie:  I think you need to lower your foot.  In order to get a good stitch, the foot must hold the quilt sandwich down as the take up spring pulls the stitch tight and the needle rises.  Jim

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i never paid any attention to the vibration, thinking it was normal. it makes it difficult to do detail work, as i cant focus on something that's shaking so bad its a blur. is this something that others have as well?  is there any 'cure' for the vibration? its the entire length of the table, not just in one area...

 

Jim-i have my foot up probably 2-3 business cards; maybe the width of a dime. it stitches fine, as long as i dont use Glide thread.

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Jackie:  If you'e stitching in non-regulated mode, change the machine speed.  There are harmonic vibrations that come and go at different speeds.  Changing the speed can affect the amount of these vibrations.  Two or three business cards clearance is close enough to give you nice tight stitches.  Jim

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i dropped the foot down closer, abt 2 cards away.

i also increased the speed, but it increased the vibration and now i see double lines of stitching. i know i stitch slower than most people; normally at a 5; but i upped it to 6. others i talk to go full tilt at 9-10! i cant control the machine movement at that point-its like trying to steer a semi truck.  what speed to most of you sew at?

 

i have another question-

has anyone else had problems with the bobbin thread getting caught between the bobbin and the case? every time i start up stitching the bobbin gets caught and breaks, even tho i have the threads pulled to the top and have knotted them. i also have issues with the thread getting wrapped around the bobbin latch itself which throws the tension out of whack and gives me eyelashes. you check it at the beginning of the row and all is ok but then it tightens up and boom, its off and you have no clue.

did it again last night and i had to rip out an entire row of feathers. at that point, it was time to close up and go home.

 

thanks!

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Sue-

i had forgotten, i was dealing with broken/frayed threads a lot and we ended up putting in a new hook assembly as well. worked so well i'd forgotten about what it used to be like! once i had the old assembly out i was able to see and fix a lot of the burr issues.

unfortunately, even the new teflon assembly had rough spots that i had to file...there was one notch i filed as much as i could but it was still ragged so i put a thin film of clear nail polish over it to smooth it out...works fine now.

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Sue, I'm sure you covered this somewhere along the way but I didn't see mention of it, when you raised your foot did you raise the needle bar too? The thread looping when you first raised your foot made me wonder if the needle bar got moved too so it can't make a proper stitch.


Anne



Anne Harmon 802 876 7535 Harmony Quilts & Designs harmonyquiltsvt@gmail.com 2005 APQS Millennium Authorized APQS Dealer

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Anne- I had someone come in and retime my machine. When he was here he adjusted my needle bar. Everything is working perfect now. I managed to quilt two small quilts last week. Hopefully my troubles are over. 

 

Jackie- I too get vibrations, mostly when the machine is quilting toward the front part of the quilt (towards the front roller bars). I don't know what's causing it, sometimes it's not too bad and others it's reall;y bad. 

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i tightened up my table, re-leveled it, and even put a thin washer on the two right carriage wheels. it rides a bit tighter now, a little too much perhaps, but actually better than before.

 

i'm debating getting the edgerider wheels vrs seeing about getting a business loan and upgrading the entire machine to one with the computer and Everything. Maybe i should do both; if i do upgrade, i can try to sell the Ult II outright...IF there's a market, and the wheels would be a feature.

 

people who are buying/selling Ult II's-are they as old as mine is??? its a mid-'90's.

 

I'm not sure i want to go into debt that deep at this stage of the game but i really want to go all out & quilt for a living.

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