Sign in to follow this  
quilterkp

M bobbins

Recommended Posts

I have M bobbins in both my APQS Ult 2 and my Gammill Classic.  Since my Ult 2 was originally a machine fitted with an L bobbin, I have the benefit of quilting with it both as an L and an M bobbin machine.  I noticed no difference in stitch quality between the systems.

I've used three different types of M bobbins in my machines.  The bronze colored steel bobbins, the black colored steel bobbins, and silver anodized aluminum bobbins.  I really haven't noticed any difference in performance.  I would caution that the black ones are probably Chinese made, and I've had quality control issues with them.  Some have been out of round.  Any such bobbin I find, I throw away, so rather than go through the trouble of sorting out the bad ones (about 10% of those I've bought), I've just stopped buying them.  I have about 5 dozen bobbins between the two machines and don't feel like I need any more.  Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, jimerickson said:

I have M bobbins in both my APQS Ult 2 and my Gammill Classic.  Since my Ult 2 was originally a machine fitted with an L bobbin, I have the benefit of quilting with it both as an L and an M bobbin machine.  I noticed no difference in stitch quality between the systems.

I've used three different types of M bobbins in my machines.  The bronze colored steel bobbins, the black colored steel bobbins, and silver anodized aluminum bobbins.  I really haven't noticed any difference in performance.  I would caution that the black ones are probably Chinese made, and I've had quality control issues with them.  Some have been out of round.  Any such bobbin I find, I throw away, so rather than go through the trouble of sorting out the bad ones (about 10% of those I've bought), I've just stopped buying them.  I have about 5 dozen bobbins between the two machines and don't feel like I need any more.  Jim

Jim, Is the M bobbin, easy for the customer  to install themselves? I am a very handy person. Thanks Carol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

F

3 hours ago, iquiltit said:

I have M bobbins in both my APQS Ult 2 and my Gammill Classic.  Since my Ult 2 was originally a machine fitted with an L bobbin, I have the benefit of quilting with it both as an L and an M bobbin machine.  I noticed no difference in stitch quality between the systems.

Because of what Jim had to say about using both the L and the M bobbin, I got the M bobbin, and I have not regretted it. I have not had any tension issues. I use the aluminum bobbins. I ordered them from eBay. There are different types, so I looked carefully at the pictures and compared them with the ones that came with my machine. 

Deb.


 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the M bobbin in my Lenni but I use pre-wounds so don't have any experience with the different makes of bobbins.


signaturedimage

A good friend will come and bail you out of jail, but a best friend will be sitting next to you saying, 'Dang, that was fun'!

2017 Blissed Lenni and loving it!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I opted for the M bobbin on my Freddie since I knew that I'd be concentrating on a panto business. They're the aluminum ones through APQS. I've never had a tension issue with them at all. I wind my own bobbins and then do the bobbin test a la' Jamie Wallen from his YouTube video. I can stitch to the very last inch without problems at all. Love it! Most of my quilts take anywhere from 3 to 4 bobbins depending on the size of quilt and how dense the stitching is. Much nicer than having to change a bobbin 12 times each quilt IMHO. Now, if I were a custom quilter who had many different thread changes then an L bobbin might be a better option. 


Cheers,

Tami Levin

Vancouver, WA

http://www.lemontreetales.com

http://www.thequiltedlemon.com

APQS Freddie with IntelliQuilter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recently checked my bobbin tension with my TOWA, and was surprised by what I discovered.

To give you a little background, I almost exclusively use Superior's Bottom Line thread in my bobbins.  I wind my own bobbins on my industrial stand alone bobbin winder.  I have made no adjustments to the winder in at least months, but more likely years.  As I indicated above I own three types of bobbins, bronze colored steel, black steel, and silver anodized aluminum.  I have bobbins of each type wound with left over bits of thread.  For self education, I decided to see if there were any difference in TOWA readings.  The steel bobbins I checked both bronze and black, registered 30 (same as 300 on newer gauges) on the TOWA.  The aluminum ones on the other hand registered 20 (200).  I checked bobbin after bobbin and the numbers persisted.   I measured the size of each bobbin, diameter, and thickness.  They were all the same.  Does anyone know why the difference?    As a side note, it did seem like the aluminum ones gave a steadier reading.  My guess due to the solid sides they have vs the sides with holes in them on the steel ones.  Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't it be nice if someone invented a way to store an entire cone of thread under the machine and feed it through the existing bobbin mechanism.  Then you would never run out of bobbin again.   Ahhhhh to dream!  :rolleyes:


Lora.

Lora in California -  Ultimate I with IntelliStitch and IntelliQuilter.  The Thimble Bee http://www.thimblebee.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lora

It could be done.  Do a google search for National two spool and you will see a hundred years ago it was done with domestic machines.  I don't know how well the tension would be from the start to the end of the spool.  Must be a reason it didn't catch on.

Nigel

 


Brenda Wells - Green Millie. Sold November 2017
Nigel Wells - Ultimate 1 with Intellistitch & IQ.  Sold January 2019

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would think preferably the solid side against the backlash spring.  I have two winders that rotate opposite to each other so I've had the holes in and out and both seem to work.  My steel bobbins don't have the notch for the drive spring so they don't work on the Turbo Winder.  If you have bobbins with the notch they should be fine on the Turbo Winder.

 

Nigel


Brenda Wells - Green Millie. Sold November 2017
Nigel Wells - Ultimate 1 with Intellistitch & IQ.  Sold January 2019

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this