playing with pantographs

[Helen G 0]

Hi everyone,

Well, I have sat on the fence for 10 years, debating about whether I should or shouldn't purchase a long arm machine. Three months ago my husband pushed me off and I now have a millenium. I am learning new things all the time and admire so much of the beautiful pieces that so many of you share. I wonder how many years it will take me to get there!

Right now I am determined to learn pantographs, so far they look rather shaky, a little like writing with the opposite hand! Can anyone tell me what stitch length they use on the SR when do pantographs, is it better to use a shorter length because of the curves? Any other advice is greater appreciated.

[Quilting Heidi 1,396]

Helen,

I use at least an 11 when I do pantographs. I also just recently found that if I use the foam that Sharon Schamber recommends then I can trace a pantograph without all those annoying shakey lines! LOL I have a hard time concentrating and get distracted easily so this allows me time to think.

[quiltmonkey 422]

Helen, something that really helped (and still helps) me with pantographs is this:

1) stand to the left side of the machine and hold only one handle (the left handle) with your right hand.

2) while holding the left handle, pull in your elbow of your right arm so it is tight up to your body (waist). Keep your elbow rigid, tight and in that position at all times when quilting. this will give you leverage, balance and stability (basically you are now "attached and part of the machine)

3) take your left hand and grab firmly on the take up roller. this (again) gives you balance and stability as you walk down the length of the table following the laser light

4) look several inches ahead of the laser light, not directly at where the laser is pointing. sort of like driving a car; you aren't looking at the hood ornament, you are looking 100-200 feet ahead of you. do the same with the laser,,,look ahead.

5) consistant speed is your friend. strive to keep the same speed (don't go too slow), even with the SR engaged, it helps to make your curves smoother.

practice these steps and see if you get more improvement.

[peglu 83]

Wow Shana, that is excellent advise. I will try it. I am also having a lot of problems with shaky lines on pantos.

Thanks for tips. I learn so much here.

[Helen G 0]

Thanks a million for your tips....Shana..that definitley cuts down on the shake factor!!

[MtnBarb 2]

Great explanation, Shana!

[ffq-lar 3,554]

Shana--I took your good advice last time for stitching pantos and they worked great--especially the "elbows in" one. Everyone who is afraid of pantos needs to print this out for future reference. I just bought a few more of Patricia Ritter's designs and they are lovely--and I am not afraid!

[uncquilter 2]

Heidi,

What is the foam that Sharon S. recommends? I am not familiar with this.

Thanks,

Carol

[AnnHenry 2]

Heidi -

I don't understand the foam for pantos. Where do you put it? I thought it was close to the PU roller when working from the front . . . but that would make it exactly where the needle was sewing for a panto . . .

Shana, I position my right hand like you do, except that I sit. I will try it your way, though. That holding onto the PU roller for balance sounds interesting!

[Quilting Heidi 1,396]

Originally posted by AnnHenry

Heidi -

I don't understand the foam for pantos. Where do you put it? I thought it was close to the PU roller when working from the front . . . but that would make it exactly where the needle was sewing for a panto . . .

Ann,

The foam goes under the leveler bar and yes it is close to the panto area but I roll it so that only an 1" is sticking out if that into the panto area and most of my panto's don't take up the entire space anyway. I took a piece of 1/2" foam that was 12" wide and fold it in half and put it under the leveler bar and then roll the sandwich up the rest of the way until most of the foam is under the bar. It really works for me.

Carol - You can find a video at Sharon's site at: http://sharonschambernetwork.com/free_area/free.html

She uses the foam to create some resistance and the machine doesn't flow as freely yet it isn't hard to do. I think it is one of those things that works for some and not for others so just give it a try. For me it gives me the opportunity to get the exactness that I want.

[RitaR 645]

The piece of foam rubber, I use one about 4" wide and about an inch thick, goes between the quilt sandwich and the leveling bar.. just before the takeup roller.. it does help, I just keep wanting to clear something out from under a wheel.. I don't panto enough though.. but it also helps with other techniques, like feathers, pebbles, etc.. even microstippling..

RitaR

[lym95 25]

Another thing to keep in mind, as I was told when I first started..." it doesn't have to be perfect as long as it it pretty". You may not keep to the pantograph completely, but as long as it is smooth, it is still OK. I think that is called "artistic license".:P

[clovismom 0]

Because I like the added control I get from the foam I was using it all of the time. But what an inconvience to constantly be moving that foam. So last time Sharon was at the house she came up with the idea of wrapping the foam around the take up bar and wrapping duct tape around it so it is permanently on. I love it!!

Raquel Birch

APQS Sales Representative

California

[Quilting Heidi 1,396]

Raquel,

Thanks for the heads up on this. I was wondering myself if that would work! You don't have a problem when you roll forward either?

[clovismom 0]

Heidi

I dont have any problems at all with it.

Raquel

[meg_marsh 45]

How much foam do you attach to the take up bar and where/when do you attach? Do you have to remove the leader, attach the foam & reattach the leader. Or, do you attach over where the leader is attached?

This whole concept is new to me and am curious how it really helps?

[quiltmonkey 422]

Meg,

Check out Sharon Schamber's video. She explains how to do this.

http://sharonschambernetwork.com/free_area/free.html