Ida

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Everything posted by Ida

  1. I am attaching this picture because I'm trying to figure out this tension problem on the back of the quilt. First off, since I finished this quilt, I have had no tension problems on the other quilts I have quilted. I had adjusted the tension several times on this quilt and it had worked perfectly for part of the quilt and then would hiccup this issue; quilt merrily along and then "hiccup" and then quilt merrily along again and "hiccup". When it happened, I was sure it was a hook & timing issue, but I checked that and rechecked it and it was okay. So, I'm wondering if this was an issue with how the needle was positioned. I'm legally blind in my left eye and I try my very best to get the needles positioned so the eye is dead center. Some people say you should position the needle to look a bit to your right. What do you think? Is this a needle position issue? What do you think causes this kind of tension issue? I did have my stitch regulator on with So Fine #50 in top and bottom.
  2. Thank you all! Yesterday, I had the same problem, but I had the needle turned slightly towards 5:30. I will try the straight (haven't had serious enough problems with this before, but I thought maybe I was doing it wrong) and the 6:30 needle positions to see which works better. Nigel, that's a great idea for video recording what is going on with the thread path. And, Mary Beth, I LOVE your signature lines" Powered by 2009 Freedom...Future winner of the Millie Sweepstakes"!!!
  3. Thank you both! Jim, I was worried I'd have to make adjustments because the new hopping foot is not as long as the old one. It seems like it's the same length as the feet in the kit, so hopefully it won't be a problem. Nigel, no, there weren't any instructions. BUT, I have the maintenance manual and it says how to adjust the hopping foot in there. It just doesn't say how to remove it to replace it with a new one. And, I was afraid I'd have to remove the hook. Yes, I've timed it before, but it does take time for me to get it right. I'm blind in one eye, so it's hard for me to see specifics at an angle. I keep that jeweler's loupe on hand at all times, and hope and pray that I don't have to mess with the timing.
  4. My old hopping foot (for my 2011 Freedom) wore out, meaning the screw holes got stripped to the point where the foot would jiggle and wobble as I quilted. If I needed to use a ruler, the ruler would push the foot over to almost under the needle. I had already bought the kit of hopping feet, so I tried a couple of those, and I loved them. But, I really wanted my regular hopping foot for using rulers. So, I bought a new one, along with the shank to screw it into. The new hopping foot was shaped different from my old one, and I was worried it might not "agree" with the old shank. The new shank is longer than the old shank. My biggest issue is with getting that screw that holds the shank in place to move at all. If you look at the attached picture, you'll see the hole where your screwdriver is supposed to go into the machine head (on the right as I face it). The screw in the picture is on the right with me looking dead center into the hole, meaning my screwdriver will need to be at an angle to loosen the screw. Oh my gosh! I can't tell you how hard I worked to get that screw to move! I decided I needed to take both of the side covers off the machine head in order to better reach that screw. In the process, I messed up the tension spring. One of the reasons I am telling you this is to forewarn you to have as many spare parts as you can on hand. They don't cost much at all ahead of time, and you will be so happy that you did when something goes awry. Anyhow, after I got both covers off, I tried to get that screw to move, but it would not budge at all. I sprayed it with some WD-40, still nothing. So, I let that sit awhile and went to work taking apart the tension spring and putting a new spring in and then went back to work on that screw. Still nothing. I worked and worked and worked and finally got it to move. Yay! The old shank moved. I have a couple of questions regarding the shank and the screw. At first I tried to replace the old shank with the new, but I could not figure out how to get the old one out and the new one in. Even with the plate above the bobbin basket removed, the bobbin basket and the parts around it are in the way of the shank. I can't take it out from above, because another part is in the way up in the machine head. So, how on earth do you replace the shank? I decided to leave the old shank in place and just attach the new foot. It is shorter than the old foot, so the shank sits lower in the "thingy" that holds the shank in place...where that screw lives... If I am able to use the old shank without it falling out, I will probably need to adjust the hopping foot height when I swap out hopping feet. I am worried about getting that screw to move again and also being able to access it. Does anyone have a trick for keeping it "move-able" and also for accessing it at an angle without having to remove the metal side (cover) of the machine head? Thank you for your help!
  5. YES, Carol! I was using the pre-wound So Fine #50 bobbins. I love them, but you know what? I've found I have the least tension problems (if any at all) when I wind my own on metal (not aluminum) bobbins. I wondered if it is because the metal bobbins slide easier, yet more controlled than the aluminum bobbins due to the weight of each. And, I wondered if the cardboard sides of the pre-wounds were causing a problem, perhaps not sliding as well. I like the term "5:30 or 6:30". That explains it better than right or left and gives it a specific location. Hopefully, Mary Beth can help us with that one! Thank you, Carol, for your help!
  6. Hi Mary Beth! Yes, I'm a Kansas City girl, too! And, yes, GO ROYALS! So, turn the needle to OUR left? Not the machine's left as it faces us? I know that's a dumb question, but I want to make sure I understand you correctly. In another group, quilters had said to turn it to the right - I wonder if they meant the machine's "right"... As you and Cagey both mentioned thread path, I have a couple of cone holders and horizontal spool holders on top of my machine's head, above the tension spring and all the other "holes" you normally go through in that area. But, I did not have it go through that 3 hole "thingy" towards the back of the machine. I'm wondering if I should have it go through that one first, instead of having it come straight down to the tension spring. I'll experiment with that the next time I put a cone on top of the machine. The cones I've used for the quilts since this one were on the cone holder on the back of the machine. I also have batting on the eye above the cone holder in the back and not on the ones on top of the machine, so I'll try that, too. Thank you so much for your help, Mary Beth!
  7. Hi Cagey! Thank you so much for your help! This picture is the back (or bottom) of the quilt. The eyelashes seemed to happen every pass at one point or another. It would be fine one moment and then not, throughout the entire quilt. I had the cone of top thread loaded above the spring, on top of the machine head, so maybe that was an issue. I have batting in the eye over the thread spool on the back, but not on the ones in front. I'll need to fix that. I've been using thread loaded on the back of the machine for the quilts since this one.
  8. Wow! I think it looks awesome!
  9. Watch out for tiny burrs on your needle - it will cause pokeys as well.
  10. Hmm... so how can I use this thread??? I want to use it, but I am so afraid of using it ever again. I bought my Freedom in May, 2011 and stopped using ANY cotton thread (to include YLI, Fil-Tec Harmony, Signature, etc.) on it over a year ago, probably 2 years now. Other people seem to have no problem on their machines. I've tried everything I could think of to no avail. I am at a point now where I've asked Bob at Superior Threads to add colors to their variegated So Fine #40 line and am still waiting (while they are adding colors to their new lines) and need to add colors to my collection for my customers. Yesterday I had a customer look at the So Fine #40 pink (the only pink) and asked if there was anything else to look at for variegated pink. The King Tut line has lots of variety, so I'd love to be able to offer that to my customers. I'm just afraid to use it, because I don't want to fight with it, nor do I want the hassle it appears to give.
  11. Zeke, would you post a picture of these 2 friction locks and how they work for you, please?
  12. Has anyone ever quilted a quillow? I just had someone ask me if I could quilt those for her. Help?
  13. Thank you! I will have a look and see if I can find the culprit!
  14. Know where we can find help on repair? Mine won't turn on. I looked to see if all cables were plugged in, and they are. It's turned on before and I was able to go up and down with it, but it's not doing anything now. :-\\
  15. I have the same problem, I think. I haven't yet figured out whether it's a left to right thing or what. No matter what kind of thread I use top or bottom, I will be sewing along and then the bobbin thread will flat line or make eyelashes on the bottom. And, that will go on for quite awhile, so it really makes me wonder if it's just needle flex. I work and work on a sample outside the quilt until I get the tension to what I think is right and then I'll work on the quilt and it will start fine and then go out of whack. I feel really stupid that I can't get my tension right.
  16. Can't wait to see the timing videos on YouTube, Amy! :)
  17. I recently bought a Freedom with the Bliss system. My question has to do with the wheels. I'm a little confused... so does the Bliss system come with M&M wheels? Or, do the M&M wheels help the Bliss "drive" better. Since I'm a newbie, my circles still look like pumpkins, Bliss or no Bliss. And, I'm guessing you can also use Edge Rider wheels on the Bliss? If I wanted to improve the Bliss even more, which wheels should I get? M&M? Or Edge Rider? Or, should I just stick with what I've got and practice, practice, practice because you really can't get any better than the Bliss by itself? Help!
  18. Um... <she says as she hides behind her Freedom machine with a sheepish, embarrassed smile on her face>... it might help if you don't have the channel lock screwed down. You'd be amazed at how easily it slides around!!!
  19. Not to worry! I only oiled in/around the bobbin housing unit (on the machine, not the bobbin case) every time I changed my bobbin. I checked the wicks and oiled them too, but they weren't leaving any oil on my fingers. They were damp, but not dripping. I was practicing on a practice quilt sandwich. I'm in the basement with concrete floors.
  20. Thanks everyone! I found that my skills GREATLY improved after about an hour on my machine. Before that time it felt like the machine was stiff, but I hadn't been able to get on it for about 2+ weeks due to other obligations. After cleaning the tracks and oiling it a bunch, either my muscles developed greatly and "I" got broken in or the machine got broken in.
  21. Thanks to both of you! I'm in the Kansas City area, Myrna.
  22. I recently bought a Freedom with the Bliss system. My question has to do with the wheels. I'm a little confused... so does the Bliss system come with M&M wheels? Or, do the M&M wheels help the Bliss "drive" better. Since I'm a newbie, my circles still look like pumpkins, Bliss or no Bliss. And, I'm guessing you can also use Edge Rider wheels on the Bliss? If I wanted to improve the Bliss even more, which wheels should I get? M&M? Or Edge Rider? Or, should I just stick with what I've got and practice, practice, practice because you really can't get any better than the Bliss by itself? Help!