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  1. Barb, The reason I tend to not suggest cotton thread to new Longarmers, and push the 100% poly. Normally as a new LA'er the cotton breaks alot , most newbies take a while to become smooth with their movement and cotton has a great tendency to break alot ,at a time when you should be focused on getting aquainted with your new machine and not wanting to throw it out the window because of thread breakage. I'm not advocating that one ignore learning tension right off the bat...I'm just saying its nice to have a grace period to get a feel for your machine movement first.(JMHO) Jamie
  2. I forgot to add I like and have used the Poly-quilter, though avoid it and aim for the thinner variations now. I do love the colors but I hate the thickness. Jamie
  3. My favorite Bobbin thread that I use exclusively with 'any' top thread is Isacord. I like BottomLine But I love Isacord. Jamie
  4. I have had alot of issues with the wheels on my apqs(No matter how many new sets I have put on ,OR have had put on), and have had my machine for aprox 4 yrs. There is a certain free-flowing motion that I wanted on my machine to be able to do the work 'I' wanted to do with my machine. I now have the edge-rider type wheels on my machine and I LOVE them. I agree with Mark, They 'Might' warp over time But I will GLADLY pay 160 buck's a yr to get the smothness that I want with my incredible apqs, and have only recently gotten with my new wheels. And my back-aches have gone by the way-side. P.S.
  5. I was just in chat room last nite talking about this. I thought I was gonna be tar'd and feathered 'LOL' when I shared that I hadnt changed my needle in 4 months (75-100 quilts). The quilt I just took off the machine had a High quality (high thread count) "black "backing and I had used a white Hobbs bat. I had also used Rainbows thread in top and bob...and not a batting or thread pokie to be found,,,and NO thread breakage. I change my needle when I hear a popping sound, which I think is a dull needle penitrating cloth. I think in 4 plus yrs I have only gone through mayby 4 packs of needle
  6. I think that sounds awesome Judy! Your border treatment is beautiful... Jamie
  7. Nancy, I tried removing the tension bar a few yrs back...lasted 3 quilts before I put it back on, what I found for me was that the bar not only helps stableise (sp) full-float quilts , but also is nessesary to prevent quilt vibration.... Jamie
  8. I had read a post somewhere eltes by another APQS owner who "Cleaned her motor and brushes". It sounds scary but nessesary for me as my Ult 1 is 4 yrs old... Is there any direction videos or instructions available to do this, I've noticed a bit of carbon (dark Black) build-up near the belt plate by the back of my machine around the 'one-stitch plates' which got me thinking about brush maintenance.... Thanks for any imfo. Jamie
  9. Hi all; When I first got my machine I had the same mis-ussumption that I have when I do remodeling "i.e. "This will only take me a wkend" and then a month later your still at it and wondering why you even started...yikes. Well most new quilters go into this with the same assumption, i.e. in a month or two they think that the work they will be turning out will be 'Payment worthy'. So they line up customers, and many times it ends up being a Big Mess.I suggest not even chanceing getting a bad reputation by putting in a bit of time before hanging your shingle, or putting an order form on a web-
  10. When I started quilting for others I realised early on that the best quilting I did was when I could do whatever I was inspired to do the day of loading the quilt. So I now have a substancial choice of allovers for the customer that wants to "pick" and control whats on the quilt , But when it comes to custom I have my own style and didnt and still don't want to do the quilt by number's thing, I found I wasnt good at formula quilting ,so why do it. There are a ton of awesome quilters that use the formula quilting system near me. It hasnt limited my back log and I am still able to say I can do w
  11. Mary Beth; Sounds like a rough few days. Yep, this has happened to most of us at the begining, but dont fret , it does get awesomely better. On the present issue when this happened to me I just sewed on the xtra 8 inches like you said and it was fine. Also just in case this isnt something you allready know I always "MAKE SURE" my back is at least 8 inches (Minimum) longer and wider than my top. If it isnt which is rare as I normally measure while the customer is in studio , I have them take it back and add on the additional to make sure it meets that minimum xtra, and if I dont catch it whil
  12. Hi Judy, Your web-site looks awesome (especially the gallery). What I really liked was that while there I wasnt bombarded with pop-ups! Could you share with us what company host you went with? Thanks, as always, your one of the best. Jamie
  13. Hi Mary and BG, Here is the Link to get niks books, when you go here go into the book area and she has pics up, also check out the gallery, and web-shots. her work is incredible eye-candy. http://www.whitehorsequiltingstudio.com/id3.htm Jamie
  14. Yes the new foot is awesome! I had the old foot until almost a half yr ago. Dave Jones here in Mich installed the new foot on my machine and I love it. I didn't have any issues with the old snap-on, but this new foot is INCREDIBLE! I've heard its not hard to install but was just to intimidated to do it myself. YOU'll love it. Jamie
  15. I have ALOT of the longarm books and wouldnt give up nary a one. My favorites are; Karen Mctavishes "Quilting for Show" and "Whitework". Nichole Webbs- "Fantasy Freehand" and "Garden Branching" and "Niks Curling Amish Feather". AND; Any of Diana Phillips books. I only do freehand work so all the above books are freehand books. My most favorite is Nicholes new book , "Nik's Curling Amish Feather". I have tried and tried to do the curling amish feather border for years without stencils, and this book had me turning out PERFECT ones within a half hour.It includes different veriatio
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