connie hurst

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About connie hurst

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  1. Hi Grammie, It looks like that one little black wheel ( encoder wheel ) is not sstraight.. if you loosen the set screws ( 5/64ths.. allen wrench) then you can make sure that is sitting straight and not at an angle. When adjusting the wheels, make sure the gold bolt under the carraige wheels are not to tight, as that will bind the wheel... Also, be sure to check that you don't have a channel lock engaged.. I'm sure it is nothing major, however I know it is very frusterating! Keep us posted and we will get you through it!
  2. Hi All, The best way we have found, is to leave the finger in and grab the hand wheel and jerk it counter clockwise... this will back the broken tip out of the hook with out doing further damage.... Sometimes if you have to replace the hook, it is because the needle jamm can " spring" the inner basket and then you will have trouble.. I guess it is a matter of how hard you jam it.. Just let us know if you are in doubt and we will figure it out!!!
  3. Goodmorning all.. Originally when we said to wax the rails, it was for the oxidation... not the movement... I guess it is up to each person... The one thing I would say, is that, if you have to wax to get the machine to move smoothly, you have some other issue going on, and the wax is just a temporary fix.... If this is the case, Let us know and we will get everything adjusted properly..... You should NOT have to wax to have a smooth running machine!!! Have a Good Day!
  4. Hi All, As of right now, it is not available, we have alot on our plates with all the new things out.... but it may be worked on next winter.... We know everyone would love the light,,,, Just check every now and then, or if anything gets done I will post something.... Have a Great Day, and sorry I don't have better news for ya right now!!!!
  5. Hi Alice, How is the speed of the needle up/down? If it is too fast or to slow, then you could get almost the same problem.. As John said, make sure that the re-taining finger is only a little ways into the grove ( dark grey basket) otherwise the thread will get tangled on it! Also, make sure the hook is stopping just to the right (from front looking down) of the finger, otherwise you can have trouble with the thread getting caught... when checking where it is stopping, you need to cycle up/down 5-6 times and get the average of were it is stopping.. Let me know if you still can't get it and we will do some trouble shooting over the phone.. Good Luck
  6. Hi Melanie, Does the machine do this from the front and the back??? Try it this a.m. and see if it does it when the machine is cold... ( before you quilt and warm it up) Also, haow far did you turn the screw on the #8 pod at a time??? Give me a call and we can get it figured out! Thanks
  7. Hi Bonbon, The Loup is a little eye glass, that is 5 X's magnigied and is a great tool for checking and re-timing your machine, also looking at your pig-tails and hook for burrs.... I use one most everyday and take it everywhere with me... We now have them available for sale... They are $ 10.15 It is something that is money well spent.. you will need one sooner or later! I'm really excited about finally getting some in to sell to all of you, as they are just like the ones we use here at the factory! Have a Great Day!
  8. Goodmorning Lee, Really the only reason for re-timing is skipped stitches... I have seen it occasionally where the is just a little loop of thread here and there. If you can't pull it into the fabric with tightening the tension, then you may need to check the timing.... This doesn't happen to often, but recently I had a gal that kept breaking thread and nothing would change that, ended up that the hook was hitting the needle really hard and we re-timed it and all was fine! If you are getting good stitches, then don't worry about the timing.... We always say, timing our machines is a last resort.... The reason they don't have to be re-timed alot, is due to our machine's being belt driven, the belts just don't slip much, where machines that are gear driven, have alot more play in them, causing them to need re-timed more! Hope this makes sence! Have a Great Week, I'm off to teach at MQS... If you need something, you can call and leave a message and I will be checking in for calls...
  9. Hi All, The "jeweler's " loop has been around forever, the ones that we carry are 5x's magnified and they are spelled loup... They place we found them was at Ace hardware... John is right, timing isn't always an issue, however, it is a great thing to have, as sooner or later you will need to check your timing and this will help you to see what you need to see, I have talked to many people and they can't quite see what they need to.... or they think it looks right, but then it ends up not being right! Also, you can look at the pigtails and see if you have a grove starting... This loup really helps for people who have bi-focals... I don't have bi-focals Yet...lol... but, I wouldn't even time a machine without one of these! Have a Great Day!
  10. Hi All Yikkes.... I didn't know I was bieng paged!!! lol.... been a little busy.. I am sending Judy a new set of boards.. I think in many cases it can be something different, crydom relay, bobbin winder. boards,,, or yes, some even out run the s.r. The first thing is always adjust the little black wheel under the encoder box, slide it in closer.. I have even seen it be in the actual wheel adjustments ( cams ) Then, when you feel you have that all correct, we can start with watching the meter to see if it is changing, then, watch and make sure the red max speed light is not coming on... if it is, yes you can outrun the s.r. If it is the crydom it will make a popping sound.. So, these are things to look for, and call me and we can figure it out on the phone!!! Have a Great Day, See ya at MQS!!! Hey Sueppy.. I am your roomie! Oh, by the way... We now have for sale Eye loops for timing your machine's Just like the ones we use here they will be $10.15 and they are available through us here at the factory!!! Connie
  11. Goodmorning Everyone! If you have a Mille.. you have the channel locks... You need to make sure one of them or both, is not locked, that will cause your machine to pull and drag... the other thing is to make sure your wheel adjustments are in the right place, that to will cause some drag! Depending on the age of your manuel, the wheel adjustments are in there, or it is under my top 10 list.. Call if you arn't sure and we can get it figured out for you... Keep in mind, as everyone has said, you won't ever get a perfectly straight line without a ruler or some kind of guide, that is why there are so many things available, cause no one else could do it either...lol.. Have a great Day, and let me know if you need help!
  12. Hi Sandra, sorry to hear about your frustration! A couple of things, loosen your bobbin tension a little... for a pre-wound,should fall 3-4in.. and a metal 5-6 in.. (when doing the yo-yo test! You may even need a different bobbin case. You can loosen the upper tension, actually off the threads. you don't want the tension knob to fall off, but it will loosen off the end of the shaft! Try a different cone of thread, just to rule out if it is bad thread.. The only other thing it could be, is a burr somewhere... (look in the timing section in your manuel and it shows pictures of the hook and where to check for burrs...) Maybe down in the hook, or the center hole of the needle plate, or even your pigtail guides.. Keep us posted or call me if you need to!! Good Luck
  13. Goodmorning All, Two things to check, first is to make sure that the little spring is not getting sucked into the cylinder... Take the end of the spring (with your fingers) and bend it. so that when you engaged the channel lock it stays on the outside of the cylinder... second, if you tighten your adjusting wheels just a little it will also help your channel lock to hold tighter.. You don't want it to tight, as then your movement of the machine is affected... when these were designed, we didn't want them to lock tight, as if you get in a place you need to move the machine you still can...instead of jamming or breaking needles.. Hope this helps. if not give me a call and I'll walk you through it! Good Luck!
  14. Hi All, One thing that people get confused about..... when you have your meter set for s.r., it gives you that many stitches, however, when you set it for manuel, that is how fast the motor will go, it doesn't have anything to do with the stitches per in.. So, as John said, you basically are outrunning the motor and causing the needle to jam! When basting, use the needle up/down button and move it, it may take a little longer but you don't have to risk jamming and breaking needle and thowing it out of timing! Good luck
  15. Hi, I just got off the phone with Beth, just an fyi for all, we think her switches are out of sink, as someone had just worked on the back handle.. Normally the molex plug never goes bad, but as Mark said, it is very simply to splice the 2 colored wires together.. Keep us posted Beth!