LadyLake

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Everything posted by LadyLake

  1. Patty, I have begun ordering directly from Hobbs, getting the 4 roll minimum. I use both the Hobbs 80/20 bleached and unbleached, plus the wool. Although the shipping cost is pricey, the volume discount still makes it less expensive than buying from a wholesaler for me. Personally, I would want to wait a while to order from Pellon until they have had a chance to perfect their new products. Joan
  2. Roberta, I love the design your grandmother used with the velvet colored pieces. She was very talented! Joan
  3. I have tried using my vertical channel locks as a guide on where to baste down the sides of quilts, but found after rolling it to the next spot, the place where I last basted it had moved from where the vertical channel lock spot was. I decided that it had to do with the fact that the quilt sandwich does drape a bit and after each roll the drape is not exactly the same as the previous drape. I will try the channel lock idea again, but if anyone has thoughts about this, I'd like to hear them. The other issue is that no quilt is square, being made from fabric, and I have decided to make the q
  4. Thank you for the information, John. Can you tell me where I would acquire the bar that is needed? Thanks for your help! Joan
  5. Hi, I have a millennium (2003) and recently did a 'soft mount upgrade.' I've been told that I will need to move my front wheels on the carriage forward, in order for the Hartley Fence to work now. Does anyone know at what location they should be moved to? Thanks for your help! Joan
  6. I like your idea a lot, Rita. Thanks for the tip!
  7. Thank you, Linda and Dawn. Those are both good ideas and I appreciate the help!
  8. I ‘d appreciate any leads/advice anyone may have regarding the best options for eliminating the Velcro clamp bump, obtaining the largest flattest rulerwork surface, and a base that results in the least amount of drag on my machine movement. Perhaps there is no one perfect base. I’ve had my Millie for 5 years now and despite using rods to lift the Velcro clamps up on the sides of the quilt, I have at times dealt with ruined stitching when the clamp bumps into the original base (with bobbin thread cutter) and Hartley extended base. After searching the APQS chat history and doing some res
  9. Sue -- hope you can resolve your back/shoulders problem; as I mentioned, doing non-stitch regulated is much easier on my hands, although it will take some practice. Ask Karen McTavish about the Freedom -- seems like a lot of people like its free movement. Sheryl -- Of course I remember you; I have seen you posting. Funny -- I sold you those zippers last year and now am ready to buy some because I\'m considering adding machine rental to my business. Definitely look me up if you come to Duluth and visit. I haven\'t made it to Michigan in the past year, but your shop is on my list if I make
  10. I just took a one day Custom Heirloom private workshop from Karen McTavish and it was excellent! Besides teaching me new custom heirloom techniques, she got me going on non-stitch regulated quilting, which is faster and easier on your back, so I'm expecting to be able to turn over quilt jobs faster. Although I have taken loads of classes, it is generally just me, myself and I in my studio, so it was helpful to have her come to my studio and actually watch me quilt and use the machine. This is my fifth year in business as a long armer and Karen was perfect for giving suggestions to speed up
  11. Does anyone know what the nautilus tools are that Sheri Wood is teaching to use at MQS 2008? Thanks!
  12. Does anyone know what the nautilus tools are for the long arm? I see Sheri Wood is teaching a class at MQS on using them, but I've never heard of them. TIA!
  13. Karen, You have been an incredible professional inspiration to me and I respect your sensitivity and honesty with others. I admire your passion to grow where life takes you! Besides that, you have what it takes to look great in feathered arms -- wish I could only look so good! Joan
  14. I like your style of McTavishing, it has a wonderful textured look.
  15. I have found that using the close-up setting for objects about 30 inches or closer results in better clarity for quilting stitches, as opposed to the auto setting on my Kodak EasyShare digital camera.
  16. I test the thread tension when stitching the quilt top onto the backing/batting, and get under the table with a flashlight to look at and feel the bobbin stitches. During quilting, I periodically check the bobbin stitches on the back roller, since they show there. I have found that slowing down makes the bobbin thread tension more even.
  17. Thanks to all of you for the information -- this internet communication is wonderful! I have gotten in the habit of just using the bobbin thread cutter, rather than pulling the thread up, and forgot that most long armers pull it up and clip. It makes sense what you all said about why the thread doesn't come up -- because it is clipped too short. I'll plan to move the machine over a bit before clipping in the future. I also experience the "thread being stuck in the case" problem, Mary Beth, and end up manually moving the flywheel to work the bobbin out. I would imagine one of the engineers
  18. I have a millienium. After I complete a line of stitching and use the bobbin thread cutter, I'll go to a new spot and attempt to bring up the bobbin thread. Sometimes the thread will not come up. When I remove the bobbin and case from the machine base, it appears that everything is okay -- in other words, the thread is threaded appropriately from the bobbin and through the slits in the bobbin case. But, I will have to remove the bobbin from the case and re-insert the thread through the bobbin case guides, then put it back into the machine base, before the thread will come up. This doesn't
  19. Hi Rita, I recently used King Tut on top and Bottom Line on bottom with a flannel quilt that worked well. Seems like with thicker quilts, the thread tension needs to be loosened WAY LOOSE. I recently did an art quilt with metallic thread that had three layers of batting and had the tension screw one circle looser than flat (which worked okay). The unevenly pressed seams sounded like a real nightmare -- I'm not sure that most quilters realize how much nicer their quilts would turn out if they took the time to press the seams correctly. I have trouble with needle breakage at those points t
  20. Sometimes I use fabric markers on cotton and poly thread to cover stitches in unwanted places. This does not work on metallic thread -- has anyone discovered how to take the shine off metallic thread stitches that are in unwanted places?