Amy Stuart - APQS Service

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About Amy Stuart - APQS Service

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  1. My first thought is the hopping foot height. If the machine moves great when not quilting, but feels like a jackhammer when quilting on fabric, it could be that the foot is just a bit too low for the project you are working on. Normally, the lower the foot is set, the better off you'll be as far as directional tension issues go. In this case, though, we should check to make sure the foot is not hitting the needle plate. Also, check to make sure the ring that is at the bottom of the foot is level - sometimes, if you get a little too close to a ruler or hit a really thick seam, it can cause the ring to bend a bit so it is not sitting level. This also can cause the 'jackhammer' effect. You can gently bend the foot back up to level if that is the issue. You should have the adjustment instructions in your manual that came with your machine, but if you need me to e-mail them to you, send me a quick note, and I'll get it out right away! Happy Quilting
  2. Hi, Betsy...I sent an e-mail with some information to your comcast address...its a wear part inside the winder that needs to be replaced! Easy Fix! Happy Quilting! Amy Stuart APQS Service Team
  3. Hi, sounds like you are so very close to having the timing set correctly!! I believe the 'thud' you are hearing is the needle hitting the silver part of the hook assembly as the needle is on the upstroke....if you set the hook point to hit the needle scarf just a bit lower, I believe you will have the clearance you need to avoid this problem. It should hit below halfway in the needle scarf, but above the bottom 'curve' of the scarf.... Dawn is correct in mentioning possible damage to the bobbin basket caused by the needle break...the basket will move freely without the hook finger in place to hold its position. I will have that finger in position loosely before starting the timing process to keep the basket in position. If you did damage the bobbin basket, you may notice a little more 'rattling' as the hook rotates, or possibly some tension issues that are not corrected in the usual methods.... Please let us know if you continue to have're almost there!!
  4. Hi, All! Going to see if I can help with the table questions.... The leveler roller should be about 1/2" off the throat of the machine...I would adjust it without a quilt on, because the thickness of the quilt sandwich can vary so much, that would be hard to set a standard using the quilt as a base. You just want to make sure that it is close enough to the machine to keep the sandwich from 'bouncing' as you quilt, but far enough away that you don't feel it pinching as you move the machine from side to side. Also, you should check to make sure that the leveler roller is not bowing in the center - since it is supported only at the ends of the table, and doesn't have the constant tension of the quilt sandwich pulling on it, it can bow over time - especially the longer length tables. If you turn the leveler roller while standing at the end of the table, it should turn evenly - not look like the center is moving front to back. If you do see a bow in the roller - just mark the 'high' side with a piece of painter's tape, and keep that tape on the top as you are quilting....over time, the roller will straighten back out again! The truss bar that you are talking about SHOULD be lower in the center than it is on the sides - that is what puts the pressure upwards on the center of the table to keep it from bowing. Like a truss on a bridge? Depending on how much it takes to get the rails level will make a difference on how much space there is between the rail and the truss bar. The question about the quilt top roller is a little harder to answer....again, like the leveler roller, you want it to help keep the quilt sandwich level, and not bouncy as you quilt....but not so low that it binds on the machine when you are quilting close to the quilt top/back rollers. Customers with expanded bases sometimes have to raise that roller up a bit to get the base underneath the quilt top roller. If you don't have your quilt stretched super-tight on the table (which you shouldn't anyway, right?), the quilt top roller height is not going to make as much of a difference than the leveler roller will... Hope that helps answer your questions.....we're always here to help if you need us....just give us a call!
  5. I will send you the manual on CD-rom. That way, you can always search for what you need, and go to that page! We haven't been sending out printed manuals for quite a while now... If you would send me your e-mail address, I can send you instructions on how to adjust the thread cutter...the blades probably just shifted out of position in's an easy adjustment to make. Talk to you soon!
  6. Hi, Donna....I am sending the pads out today that you are missing for your table set-up via Priority Mail. Were you able to find the manual disc in your shipment? Let me know, and I can send it out with the pads.
  7. I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the class, and feel a little more comfortable with your machine! It was a WONDERFUL trip...Carol and Jack are amazing hosts!! We were even able to make a trip down to the experience that won't be forgotten for a lifetime! Remember, you can always call me if you have any questions....even if it is just to say "Hi!".....
  8. Hi, Lib...I've tried to get your phone number from our documentation system and am not able to find it to call you!! Please call us...we're here to help you!! We are in from 8-5 CST Monday thru Friday...let's get in touch before the weekend so you can have some fun!!
  9. Hi, first thought is to make sure that both of your sensors are working correctly. When the machine is on and you turn the flywheel by hand to get the needle to move up and down, watch the indicator lights that are on the top of the machine...the left bank of lights should have #'s 4 and 5 come on when the machine is in down position (#4), and up position (#5). If either one or both of these lights are not coming on, there may be a small problem with a circuit board. Check that out first, and let me know what the outcome is...we can proceed from there. As far as the needle not coming all the way up, that issue could also be related to the sensors on the machine as well. I'd like to figure out what is going on there before we do any other adjustments to the machine. Please check the indicator lights out and e-mail me the results - my direct e-mail address is: Talk to you soon!
  10. Shana, Shana, Shana....whatever am I to do with you? I haven't personally used these bobbins yet, but I think SuperDawn may thought is that the puller arm that pulls the thread over to the cutting blades may be a little sharp - I know it looks like it's supposed to be sharp, but it isn't. And, yes, it is supposed to have that little nick in the edge!! (I get that call a lot;-0) That would be the first thing I would check, and smooth down if needed with emery cloth.
  11. Were you able to get your project finished? I guess the real test would be to load a practice piece and see if you have the same problems with it. I know that some fabrics have a 'painted' pattern on them, and that can really mess with the timing and tension sometimes...not sure what your 'vintage' quilt is made from. Sometimes skipped stitches can be related to the hopping foot height - make sure it is low enough for the project you are working on... Call me if you are still having problems....
  12. Ok....that was really a tear-jerker - true or not! Our furry kids really can help make life bearable in trying times - my 'kid' Copper seems to know when the tears are coming - he puts his paws on my arm as if he's saying "It's OK, Mom!" Just have to share my 'kid', too! This is Copper when he was 6 wks old - he's 2 now, but still just as cute! He's half Papillon and half Shi Tsu.
  13. Hi, Anne! I just sent you an e-mail with the information....
  14. There is an adjustment that can be made to the circuit boards to fix this issue...if you will send me your e-mail address, I can send the instructions to you via e-mail.