jimerickson Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I converted my Ult2 to M size hook and bobbin system a year and a half ago and have the original L size hook and 3 bobbin cases (2 standard and 1 pigtail) left over. I originally kept them to make sure I was happy with the conversion. Well, now they're just taking up space. The hook came off a 1997 Ult2, and looks to be in very good condition, not quite perfect, but with very few marks on it. I'll sell the lot along with 6 bobbins (2 w holes, 4 without holes) for $50. I'll even pay the shipping. My e-mail address is:jimatthelake903@yahoo.com. Regards. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Hey jim, Have you gotten any bites yet. Let me know. I could be interested. zeke..................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Zeke: No inquires so far. Regards. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 These are still for sale. I just looked on APQS parts listing, the hook retails for $85 and the bobbin cases for $10 each. That's a total of over $100. They're not new but you can have a back up on hand for way less than they'd cost new. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Ok Jimmy, Call me, their mine. 916-689-4992. zeke....................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Zeke: I sent you an e-mail. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Thanks Jim. Check your e-mail for a goodie. zeke........................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Zeke: The hook and bobbin cases went in the mail today. You should have them by the end of the week. Thanks. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hey Jim, WAs it simple to switch your UII over to the larger hook. zeke.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Zeke: It wasn't too difficult. Aside from simple adjustments, I had to thin the hook shaft collar to provide space to the M hook which is longer, and I had to increase the depth of the notch that the black bobbin basket retainer finger mounts in. What I did learn through experience is that the sight path for timing is different than APQS's. You have to sight it like Gammill tells everyone. I ignored the measurements and timed like APQS instructed. It sewed O.K. but I would then occasionally break needles. I finally raised the needle bar half the difference between the diameter of the two hooks and the problem went away. When I sighted the needle/hook position after properly raising the needle bar, I recognized that it looked like Gammill's sight picture. BTW, because the M bobbin case basket is a little different in shape than the L, I didn't have to cut the finger notch deeper by the full half diameter difference. About half that number did the job. I simply used the edge of a file to deepen it. I used a grinding wheel to thin the hook shaft collar. One more thing. The M hook has only 2 set screws, while the L has 3. It's a little more difficult to reach the initial screw when you clamp the hook after loosening it. It's not quite as visible through the needle plate access hole. The biggest problem I had, was getting the old hook off the hook shaft. Someone neglected to deburr the hook threads before installing the hook, and the burr was set in the hook shaft. I deburred it after I removed it, so you won't have that problem when you install the L hook I mailed you. I'm assuming that there must be more involved in the spacing or accessories of the new machine that require gear box changes, than on my Ult2. I would guess your Ult1 is probably set up like the Ult2 unless the thread cutter requires something different. The hook shaft spacing from the needle plate is just fine for the M hook. In fact it moves the hook closer to the needle by about 1/8" which some claim gives better stitch quality. I compared stitch quality before and after the mods, and could find no difference. All you have to do is get it adjusted right. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Jim, It sounds pretty simple to do. Now I know that APQS didn't have mind set a year and a half ago. It may have a lingering thought though, but did you decide to do this on your own to experiment or did someone at APQS encourage you to try this out. I've been working on machines for over 12 years now and haven't seen the conversion yet on an APQS. I'm just surprised that it was on an UII. Most of us old timers are stuck on the old ruts of the L class bobbin. I did for a short while have a Gammill Optimum which had the M class. When you said it timed more like the Gammill, did that mean you used the Gammill timing tool or just did it by sight. The APQS machines have that slight deflect from the hook & needle when the Gammill does not. And did you put on a ordinary M hook without the APQS modification. Just a little curious, because I've had some clients ask and I haven't had answer for them. zeke................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Zeke: I decided to do this on my own. I originally asked Ray at Quilt Tech if he converted APQS's to M bobbin. He told me he had never heard of such a conversion. I started to think about it, since M bobbin was one of my "must have" long arm features (along with power lift, four roller table so I wouldn't have to raise the take up roller, stitch regulator, minimum 20" throat, electronic channel lock), and then I bought an Ult2 with only one of these features-go figure. Now I've fixed all of them. It looked like an M hook would fit but I couldn't really tell. I asked Ray about the dimensions of the M hook, and he volunteered to loan me a hook to experiment with -nice guy- I got the hook did some measurements, thought it would fit, and then went ahead and took the L hook off, and began fitting the M. The most important thing was that the hook shaft size was the same for both hooks. The M hook has a .050"deeper hole, and is a bit thicker. After I got it on, it was just a matter of timing the machine. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Zeke: I guess I didn't answer all your questions. While I may be an "old Timer" I only bought Zelda (my Ult2 in May of 2010), so no "rut" for me. Any way I'm always looking for better ways to do things. When I refer to Gammill timing, I mean by sight. I don't have the hook touching the needle. Probably .0015 clearance. It seems to me that a touch would only eventually wear the hook. I used one of the standard M hooks like used on the Gammills. I understand the M hook used on the A-1's is a bit different. I think the hook is the kind that is used on the other M "hooked" long arms, and other M "hooked" machines (I understand some embroidery machines use M hooks) Maybe if I timed so the hook touched the needle, it would stitch better, but since Gammill doesn't do that, and the old Singers with similar bobbin systems don't do that, I didn't think it was necessary. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Very interesting Jim. I would have never thought about swapping out the hooks. I think that putting on a bigger hook would have meant that I need a different gear box. I guess I was thinking that the hook point would have been passing by the needle a little higher then it should, but I guess that why we can raise the needle bar. Anyways, glad to hear that you got it done. Now all you have to do is figure out to make the UII have a hopping foot. I had my UII for 14 years and was sad when I sold it. I guess since you didn't have the hook touching the needle , then it is not nessesary to do. I've tried years back with my UII to make it quilt without the deflection, but it always skipped, then I would go back to the deflection. Would have never thought that it would work that way. Good luck with your endeavors. zeke.................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 Zeke: I'm kinda ambivalent about the scooting foot. With the large hole, it does catch on seams sometimes, but it is easy to unsnag: just lift the foot. On the other hand, I quilt on a Gammill Classic quit often, and it occasionally gets caught on a seam, and it is a real chore to unsnag. I bought one of Sherri Butler's ruler feet, but it just seemed to make the problem of catching on the seams worse, so I don't often use it. I did discover that increasing the tension on the foot improved stitching, so now the clamp that captures the spring is spaced about 5/16" above the foot. That change improved the stitch quality quite a bit. Put the L hook to good use. Regards. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Thanks Jim. They arrived on friday. It's been a while since I've seen a steel hook, but nice and clean and tight. Thanks again. zeke....................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 OK Zeke, you've peeked my curiosity. If they're not steel, what are they? The only rotary hooks I've ever seen are steel. Some of the modern drop ins are some sort of polymer, but I've never seen a rotary like that. I have to admit, I don't much work on modern machines, so maybe that's it. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Jim, Most of the hooks that come from APQS are teflon coated so the thread will glide over and around the hook much smoother and quicker. Kind of like snot on a door knob. It also has less heat issues with it as well. Since the thread slides over and around it quickly, then no more breaking thread. zeke................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.