jimerickson

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About jimerickson

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    West Tawakoni, TX

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  1. jimerickson

    Using pattern boards for vertical borders

    The best way to do it is to turn the quilt. While I don't use pattern boards per se, I turn the quilts when I do Quiltazoid border patterns, or long straight line quilting. It's just a matter of unpinning the quilt, rotating it 90 degrees and repinning. It usually takes about an half hour. BTW, I do all the horizontal quilting on the first pinning, before I turn it, and since the "sandwich" is completely secured, I only pin to one of the leaders when I turn. Hope this helps. Jim
  2. They are not all the same. They all will probably fit and work in your machine, but the quality control on their respective manufacture aren't the same. The black ones (probably the least expensive) are the poorest. I've thrown away about one in ten, and no longer buy them. The bronze colored ones are good, but I really prefer the extruded aluminum ones. I figure the manufacturing tolerances are probably the tightest on them. None of these need be expensive. I paid about $1.00ea for the black, about $2.50ea for the bronze colored, and about $1.50ea (I think-can't really remember) for the aluminum ones. These were bought in ten plus lots, no one at a time. If you're paying a lot more than that per bobbin, you can probably do better on line. Jim BTW, the aluminum ones I've bought where plain silver, not the colored anodized ones, which I think are a little more expensive.
  3. Rebecca: I converted my Ult 2 to M bobbin way back in 2010. At the time APQS wasn't even offering an M bobbin option. I had to source all my own parts, and figure out the conversion by my self. It wasn't difficult to do, it just took me a while to get everything right. Now with parts from APQS, the conversion shouldn't be much more difficult than changing the hook on your machine, and adjusting the needle bar height. If you can handle those two tasks, you can do the conversion. Jim
  4. jimerickson

    SKIPPED STITCHES

    Jeanne: I think the problem is with the stabilizer used to stiffen the jersey fabric. Try the largest needle you have (5.0 maybe). If this doesn't take care of the problem, the timing will probably need adjusting. There my guess would be that either the needle bar isn't set deep enough so a large thread loop isn't being made, or that the hook is meeting the meeting the needle too far down in the scarf so that any fabric tension on the thread is keeping the loop from properly forming. Jim
  5. jimerickson

    Lennie

    Vicky: I think Deb is confusing the Lenni with the Millie. I'm sure it doesn't have a 16" sewing field. My Ult 2 has a 14.25" field, and I'm sure that's greater than the Lenni. Jim
  6. jimerickson

    Lennie

    Sorry, I can't advise you there. I don't do pantos, and I have an Ult 2 with a custom table, not a Lenni so my sewing field would be different from yours. Someone who does pantos on their Lenni should be able to answer that question. Jim
  7. jimerickson

    Lennie

    Vicky: There is ample room in the throat to hold a king size quilt rolled up on the take-up roller. The only thing that happens is that your sewing "field" gets a bit smaller as you roll up the quilt. Doesn't make any difference unless your doing a large panto (something over 12 inches) or large pattern blocks. Hopes this helps. Jim
  8. jimerickson

    Magnetic bobbins - tension

    Marie: If you're really interested in proper bobbin tension adjustment, do yourself a favor and invest in a TOWA bobbin tension gauge. They're expensive, (about $70), but you'll be able to adjust for any type of bobbin you're using. Since you put the bobbin in the tension gauge as you'd use it in your machine, you don't have to worry about which ever anti-backlash system you're using. Jim
  9. Gardner: Can you post some photos of your leaders. They sound intriguing. I'm not sure I understand what you've done. Thanks. Jim
  10. Let me tell you first, I don't own a Millie. That being said, I think I can help you with your problems. First of all, handle tightening. There appear to be two clamping screws for each handle on the front of your machine. Position the slipping handle where you want it, and simply tighten the two screws for that handle. As far as the needle up/ needle down goes, I've seen others with that issue correct it by adjusting the number "8" screw. (somewhere on the back of the machine). Hopes this helps. Jim
  11. jimerickson

    magna bobbins

    You shouldn't have to adjust the bobbin tension. The magnetic bobbin simply replaces the anti-backlash spring in both function and tension. Jim
  12. jimerickson

    magna bobbins

    Which "tension spring"? Are you referring to the anti-backlash spring in the bobbin case, the bobbin tension spring, or one of the top thread tension springs? The anti-backlash spring should be removed from the bobbin case. The other tensions shouldn't require adjustment. Jim
  13. jimerickson

    Gros Beckert needles

    The 134MR and the Singer 1955MR ID's indicate these are needles for our application, and fit all APQS and Gammill machines. The labeling seems to have simply left off the Special Application Needle designation. Anyone with one of these machines should be able to use these needles. Jim
  14. jimerickson

    Crazy Machine

    My Gammill, with Intellistitch did a similar thing a while back. Turns out it burned up the mother board. You'd better call the factory and talk to them about it. It could be a serious problem. Jim
  15. jimerickson

    Batting

    Well, cotton does beard so that might be the cause. What fabric are you using for the back? If the back is a dark color, and the "wrong" side of the back is much lighter in color, it could be that some of the backing threads are rolling over as you sew, making it look like bearding. Moda fabric is notorious for this. Jim