jimerickson

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jimerickson last won the day on February 5

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About jimerickson

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  1. I've meant to correct the misconception about this "gunk" for years now, and I guess now is the time. The black material you see here is not simply aluminum oxidation. There might be some there, but most of it is something else. I believe it is cotton dust, sizing, and dye, along with the dust we find in the air all the time. "How can I be so sure" you ask. Because I have anodized tracks on both of my machines, and I still have the black build up. Anodized aluminum does not oxidize. It is a coating created to specifically deal with aluminum's propensity to oxidize. I don't think APQS bothers to anodize their table rails, the ones for my Ult 2 were raw aluminum, which I had anodized myself. The Ult 2 carriage was anodized when I got it, as are the rails on my Gammill. I still get that black build up on them. I haven't addressed this issue before, because dealing with it, whether aluminum oxidation, or simply dirt, is the same; clean the rails with some evaporating solvent. But I've decided to set the record straight so someone else doesn't have parts of their table anodized in hopes of eliminating the problem. Jim
  2. Draggingbutt: The reason you don't see issues with the Quilt Path discussed here isn't because there aren't any, but because the Quilt Path group only allows Quilt Path owners to visit the site, and you must be invited to join. Jim
  3. The M bobbin holds almost twice the thread that the L bobbin holds. Jim
  4. Perhaps too basic, but you do know that seams will push your machine off line? I have constant issues with seams when doing SID. Just something I've learned to live with. Jim
  5. When I get loops, it is usually because there is something wrong with the upper tension. Try tightening and see if the problem goes away. Jim PS: because Tut is cotton, check your bobbin case for hidden lint.
  6. I dislike Moda fabrics for exactly that reason. Rather than being dyed, it appears that the fabric is "painted" and the back side is very light colored. When you sew on it, some of the threads roll over showing the light color of the "wrong" side. The "pokies" aren't really the batting showing through but a problem with the under lying fabric. Jim
  7. The metallic rattling you heard is probably the bobbin basket hitting the finger that controls it's travel. It's hard to fiddle with the hook without rotating it sightly, and that might be what you're feeling. There shouldn't be any play in the hook. It should only rotate and not move any other way. Jim
  8. Peggy: I don't know which winder you have, and I don't have a "official" AQPS winder, but I've had my after market industrial winder stop on me in the past. I solved the problem by removing the motor brushes, blowing the dust out of the motor and de-glaizing the brush surface. If you can get at the motor, you might try that. Jim
  9. Karen: Try tightening up your top tension. Crank it up until the top thread is pulling the bobbin thread to the top, then start loosening it until you get a good balanced stitch. You might try and use contrasting color threads top and bottom to help see the stitches while you are adjusting. Good luck. Jim
  10. Even though this is only a 10 footer, this is a great buy! To the long arm wannabes out there, or the sit down owners that would like to move up to a long arm, consider buying it. Jim
  11. Deetz: The problem might be the backing, but in my experience Hobbs 80/20 is a bit problematic. I've eliminated that problem by using Hobbs' wool. Don't use the 80/20 much anymore. When I did use it, if I had a dark backing, I'd use the black 80/20, not white or natural. You might consider either of these alternatives in the future. Jim
  12. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like your thread is getting caught in the hook's race. If your hook is in good condition, I don't think that should be happening. It would seem there is too much clearance, and the hook needs to be replaced. To test, pull and push on the center post. If there's any movement, the hook is bad and should be replaced. If you need to replace the hook, and you want a larger bobbin, it might be a good time to upgrade with an M bobbin conversion. Jim
  13. I made my suggestions on your other posting. While there are some nice things about the roller assembly/configuration of the Lenni table, I really prefer the original wooden table your Ult 2 came with. If you search my posts back in '12 '13, and '14 you see photos of the modifications I made to my Ult 2 table. I think it's much better than the Lenni table. Jim
  14. Just a suggestion: Take all 3 rollers to the welder/fabricator at the same time. Have him cut off the end without the gear, and then re-weld the shaft caps after the rollers have been shortened. Tell him you want them to all be shortened exactly the same amount. After the rollers have been shortened then take to shortening the actual table top. With the rollers in hand it will be easier to get the top cut to the right length. No chance of measuring errors, or communications mistakes. Good luck. Jim
  15. Sorry, you're right Cagey. I use Heirloom, buy it by the roll. The 96" comes in a 30 yd roll, and the 110" comes in a 25 yd roll. I don't buy the single batts or the small yardage offerings. Jim