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jimerickson last won the day on December 3 2019

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About jimerickson

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    West Tawakoni, TX

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  1. I made my own for my Ult2, so I don't know for sure, but I think one offered for a Lenni would fit since they are both built on the same platform. Jim
  2. Not too unusual. Especially if you sew in the printed on material. Additional drag on thread inhibits the loop formation which causes skipped stitches. Try a bit of silicon on thread and needle. That will probably help. Good luck. Jim
  3. Cagey: Are you sure the needle doesn't hit the center? Take a piece of paper, set it under the hopping foot, pencil around the outside, then turn the needle down til it pierces the paper, remove the paper and measure the distance from the hole to the circle to see just where the foot sets. I don't know anything about the APQS ruler feet, but I do know the way you look at something, sometimes leaves you with an incorrect impression. As much "flap" as there has been about front and back spacing, I'd be surprised if the new feet weren't accurate. Jim
  4. What you quilted is probably why the needle went dull. If you still have the worn out needle, check the tip for damage. Run your fingernail up and down the point feeling for a burr. If you feel one, the needle was damaged by hitting something. If there is no burr, it's just dull. I've heard the story about the chrome vs titanium needle and damage. In my experience, and I've used both type MR needles, there's nothing to it. They both bend and break the same way. Use titanium if you want them to last longer, replace them more often if you don't. I don't think you would have had a bad needle. The Groz-Beckert are high quality needles, and I don't think their quality control would let bad needles leave the factory. Jim
  5. I'm surprised that you dulled a needle so quickly. I think I probably get a dozen or more quilts out of a one. What kind of fabric and batting were you using? I'll have to admit that I don't do dense custom quilting with lots and lots of seams, and I don't use cotton batting much anymore. Batiks dull needles more quickly as well. But still.... What brand needles are you using? It sounds like you might benefit from titanium coated ones. I used to have trouble dulling needles, but discovered it was really a timing issue. Flex of the needle allowed it to occasionally hit the hook, and that dulled them in a hurry. Re-timed, and switched to Schmetz needles which are stiffer than the Groz-Beckerts. What size needle are you using? Small ones flex more than larger ones, so they're more likely the hit the hook as well. Schmetz advertises you can use one size smaller and maintain the stiffness of the larger MR needle. Take a look at your timing, and hook/needle clearance. Pay particular attention to your needle bar height. Good luck. Jim
  6. I would call a mid-arm as anything 15" and under. My suggestion to you is to look for an APQS Lenni. Bigger than your friend's SweetSixteen, but small enough to handle easily. I'd shop for a used one, knowing full well that APQS is there for any assistance and support you might need. The APQS machines are industrial strength, simple, and almost un-breakable. I've got a 23 year old Ult 2, and couldn't be happier. Jim
  7. LinneaMarie: Shana's right about the fabric, but I'd like to add that the 80/20 batting you're using isn't the best when it comes to bearding as well. I prefer to use a poly or more preferably, wool because they don't beard. I don't use 80/20 much anymore unless the customer wants cotton batting. Jim
  8. Try starting (moving the machine) slower. You may be out running the stitch regulator when you begin to sew. Jim
  9. You should be able to get a pretty good ides as to whether the hook needs polishing without removing it, by 1) looking carefully for scratches, and 2) running your finger over the various hook parts feeling for any damage. A couple of basic questions: Have you checked the machine timing? If it is slightly out of time, the top thread may not be being released timely, causing the thread to be overly stressed. Are you using the proper type needle? If they are the Singer type (which includes Gros-Beckert) they should be MR, SAN 11 size 3.0 to 5.0. If they are something else, the needle may be your problem. Did your manual include photos of proper timing? If so, make sure your machine is adjusted exactly as pictured. If you don't have photos, look on APQS's website for examples. BTW, I think all the Ult 2 manuals were photo copied pages held in a binder, at least that's what mine is like. The timing photos however, are actual excellent quality black and white photos. When looking at the machine timing, pay particular attention to the needle bar adjustment. I seem to remember having a similar thread issue with my machine shortly after I bought it, and it turned out to be that the needle bar was set too deep. Raising the needle bar so the needle eye position exactly matched the proper timing photo, solved the problem. Good luck. Jim
  10. It sounds like the spring tension might be the issue. You can tighten the spring tension by removing the tension assembly, loosening the set screw, rotating it against the spring, tightening up the set screw and replacing it in the machine. When you return the assembly to the machine, make sure that the spring is set at the 10:30/11:00 position when it is "resting". Good luck. Jim
  11. Loretta: Both Laura and I have Intellistitch stitch regulators on our machines, so our "unregulated" experience is in the distant past. That being said, shredded thread isn't only a problem of unregulated machines. Is there any particular quilting action where the shredding happens? If so, that might give us a clue. I personally use YLI Longarm Professional as top thread almost exclusively. The strongest longarm thread I've found. It is possible that you have a burr somewhere on your hook assembly. Examine it very carefully, and if you fine one polish it down with fine emery cloth. Good luck. Jim
  12. That sounds a lot like Intellistitch's manual with stop/start, except rather than pulsing, the Intellistitch actually stops stitching until you move it again. You can turn that Intellistich feature off and have it stitch when you stop, but why would you want to? Jim
  13. PJ: You can see from the photo that the machine is not Bliss equipped, and due to the age of the machine, it's a pretty sure bet that it has an L bobbin. Jim
  14. I don't really have any idea, because I've never had experience with APQS's Quilt Glide. However, what I know from my Intellistitch regulator, is that "manual" is not stitch regulated, so the only control you have over stitch length is the speed at which you move the machine, or the stitching speed you set. If the stitch length is controlled by the machine, it would be stitch regulated, not manual. Jim