jimerickson

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About jimerickson

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  1. I could probably make them for myself, but your most likely best bet, is to contact TinLizzie and try to buy the parts from them. Jim
  2. Allison: Are you wanting to do pantos from the front? If so, there is a Topper for sale here on the forum that I think will work. If that's not what your looking for sorry for the comment. Jim
  3. I don't think so. I have the heat or cooling off in my quilting room all the time, except when I'm actually quilting. Jim
  4. There is no need to remove the needle plate to oil the hook. Snap out the bobbin case, bend over and look at the hook, and put a drop of oil in the hook race. Manually turn the machine back and forth a couple of times to better distribute the oil, snap the bobbin case back in place and you're ready to go. I do this for every sewing session before I begin quilting each day. Jim
  5. Are all the table connections properly adjusted and tight. Are the wheels properly adjusted? Has the machine been oiled? Start at the beginning, search and adjust as you go. Good luck. Jim
  6. It sounds like the needle might be hitting the hook. Is the needle installed properly? Remove the needle,and then re-install it, making sure it's both facing the hook properly, and fully inserted into the needle bar. Jim
  7. Safety pins work fine. The one benefit they offer is that they don'e accidentally come out. Use whatever you like. The point being that you must stabilize the quilt before you roll. Jim
  8. Gigi: Lyn's right, you need to do more to stabilize the quilt before you roll it back and forth. You can also pin rather than baste. If you do that, I'd follow Quilting Heidi's recommendation to "pin the snot out of it". Safety pins about 6 or 8 inches apart will probably do. Jim
  9. Helen: There's another one out on e-bay. Listing #273775429496. asking $3999. Jim
  10. Helen: She has it listed out on e-bay. Listing #113069324513, for $4500, or best offer. If I had needed a machine, I would have bought it. Jim
  11. Have you checked the adjustment of your wheels? They may be too tight, or more likely, too loose. Loose wheels will make directing the head movement a bit unpredictable. Jim
  12. Amy: I have an Ult 2 which of course came without electronic channel locks. I found the "manual" channel lock to be user unfriendly. As a result, I built myself a set of electronic channel locks. I use them all the time. In fact I was thinking about the channel locks the other day while quilting, and thought "what would I do without my channel locks". At least at one time, some of the other long arm manufacturers offer the electronic channel locks as an option. I think the option cost between $800 and $1000, so the extra $1100 APQS wants for the Millie over the Freddie is appropriate. I personally would buy the Millie just for the channel locks. Jim
  13. Olympia: One more thing. Make sure your quilt sandwich is'n't too tight or too loose. That also affects stitch quality. Jim
  14. Your hopping foot pushes the fabric in the direction you are sewing, so as Laura and Connie suggest sew in both directions. Jim
  15. Olympia: Exactly which Superior thread are you using? They make a lot, and some work on a long arms better than others. Your machine will never sew as well from right to left as it will from left to right. Same thing front to back. It's because of the rotary bobbin system our machines use. That lockstitch system was intended for back to front sewing with feed dogs. This makes timing and all hook adjustments critical for these machines. As for shredded thread goes. If you don't find a burr somewhere, it may be the "depth" adjustment on the bobbin basket retaining "finger". Adjust it as far out as you can, and still have it retain the bobbin basket. Your thread may be catching on the end of it as it passes through the gap while making the loop. Sewing different directions changes the position of the thread in that gap, and that accounts for the different directional tension and stitch quality we all have to live with. Good luck. Jim