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jimerickson

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jimerickson last won the day on September 9

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  1. Don't know what you mean by "knocking", but if it's a kind of popping sound, could be a bad needle. If it's a metallic click, the hook could be hitting the needle too hard. A couple of thoughts for you. When you find the problem be sure to let us know. Might help someone else in the future. Good luck. Jim
  2. Tammie: I think you will probably need to buy a Bliss rail and have it cut down and fitted to your 7' table. I doubt that APQS stocks 7' Bliss rails. Jim
  3. Singer didn't make different bobbins for the Featherweights. If you look closely, you'll see there is a slot cut in the bobbin holder. This slot can be made wider or narrower, by either spreading the shaft. or squeezing it. If bobbins won't go on the shaft you need to squeeze it, if they slip, you need to spread it. Good luck.
  4. Nancymae: It might be helpful to list the price, and a more a detailed description of your machine, or better yet, photos. Jim
  5. My friend has a Gammill. I helped her set it up, and I don't think it would be too difficult to adapt to APQS. I wasn't really suggesting the Q-Bot, just saying there are other robots out there to look into. Jim
  6. Don't really know anything about "Sure Stitch", but your problem sounds like the horizontal encoder (if sure Stitch) has encoders) isn't turning properly. Check for thread wrapped around it, and make sure there is enough tension on it to make firm contact with whatever it rides on. Good luck. Jim
  7. There are less expensive/capable systems like Q-Bot. Don't do as much, but don't cost so much. I have a friend who has one, and she loves it. Jim
  8. The vibration you're seeing during warm-up and cleaning is harmonic. If you change the speed, or more importantly the position of the machine, the vibration will change. Nothing to worry about. Jim
  9. Sounds like everything is good. My Ult2 acted the same way before I replaced her wheels. However the new wheels fit your rails, by the looks of the "before" photos, they fit tighter than the OEM. You made a good choice. Jim
  10. Peggi: This posting is over 2 years old, and the seller hasn't visited the site in 6 months. I don't think you'll get a response, and I doubt if the machine is still for sale. Jim
  11. Sue: I'm disappointed the wheels ride on the bottom of the wheel "V" rather than on the sides, but the real test is whether they are stable. Does Lenni wiggle at all when you move it? If it doesn't wiggle then they'll work fine. My guess is that even if there is some movement, it's under better control than it was with the OEM wheels. Jim
  12. Sue: I checked the wheels on my Ult 2 yesterday. The OEM wheels have an effective diameter about 3/16" larger than the Edgerider Gammill set. I say "effective" because the profile of the wheel face is different, and depending what type rail they run on, they will sit higher or lower. Since the change is for each set (machine, carriage), the total height might be as much as 3/8" I think on your rails, it would be less than that. On my rails, I think the difference was about 3/8", but I can't really remember, and can't tell from just looking at the wheels. If you're willing to risk the cost of the Gammill Edgerider set, I think they will work on your set up. In addition to the wheel set, you will need to replace the wheel mounting bolts. The bolts that comes with the Gammill set are are metric, while the bolts on your Lenni are imperial (or at least they are on my Ult 2). The hub of the Edgerider wheel is just over 1/4" thicker than the OEM wheel, so you'll need to buy 8 bolts each a quarter inch longer than the original. ( I don't remember if they are all the same length or not). The bolts are standard 1/4 x 20 so most any hardware store should stock them. The Edgerider wheels are two row bearing wheels with a significantly wider base which makes them much more stable and durable than the OEM wheels. You will notice the difference when they are installed. The precision of my quilting improved significantly when I put them on my Ult 2. It also improved noticeably on my Gammill Classic when I installed a set on it. (having the two machines is how I became familiar with the Gammill designed set) I'm curious, so risking the purchase price of a set of aftermarket wheels wasn't a problem for me. In fact, after I fitted my Gammill with Edgerider wheels, I replaced them with another brand of aftermarket wheels. Not much difference, but both aftermarket sets were much better than OEMs. Hope this helps. Jim
  13. This is the system I guessed. The after market wheels have much wider bearing placement than the OEM's, and as a result they are much more stable. I hesitate to make recommendations because I'm not sure they would work, but if it were me, I would try to find a set of Edgerider wheels for an old Gammill Classic and see if I couldn't fit them to my Lenni. I have a set of those on my Ult 2 and they work fine. The "V" shape for the Edgerider wheel will solidly position it on the rail so there would be no back and forth movement allowed by the "U" shape of the OEM wheels. I was able to fit a set to my machine by simply buying Imperial bolts and nuts to replace the metrics supplied with the Edgerider set, and adjusting for any machine height change the new wheels made. I don't know whether Edgerider wheels are still available for Gammill Classics machines or not. They also are a bit pricey. I think I paid about $200 for a set 10 years ago. The other issue is the lack of adjustment offered in the Lenni table you have. I built my table so I could adjust the height of my leveling and take-up roller. I don't think the roller height can be adjusted on yours. If you decide to pursue this modification, I'd suggest you contact a Gammill dealer or Kasa Engineering directly to check the availability of the wheel set. If they are no longer available then the whole modification possibility is mute. Good luck. If there is anything more I can tell you, feel free to ask. Jim
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