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jimerickson last won the day on June 27

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    West Tawakoni, TX

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  1. My experience is that the smaller the circle, the more likely it will be mis-shaped. I guess it's a matter of the ratio of a single stitch to the total number of stitches in the circle. One stitch out of place in relation to 30 total stitches is more significant than one out of 100. I'm not sure this helps, but I hope so. Regards. Jim
  2. I think you're right, the original was a "scoop" foot. I have one, but I'm reluctant to part with it, because I might want to use it in the future. I built my own ruler foot, and don't use the original very often, but when I sell my Ult 2 I think the new owner should have the option. Sorry I can't help. Jim
  3. Is there any difference between the "scoop" foot and the "regular" foot on the Ult 2? I thought the only other foot available for the Ult 2 was the "ruler" foot offered by Sherri Butler. Let us know. Jim
  4. I've never had one, but my guess is that the machine would completely stop working. I doubt that a fuse would only affect some functions. Seems like total shut down would be it. Good luck. Jim
  5. It sounds like you might need a new switch. It doesn't seem to be working properly. Good luck. Jim
  6. Are you talking square or level? If it's square, then your frame is "racked" and needs to have the long corner pushed toward the short corner. I don't know exactly how your frame is made, but I'd guess by loosening the bolts holding it together and forcing it toward square, then tightening the bolts, would do the job. You can check squareness by measuring diagonally corner to corner. Your table will be square when the two measurements are exactly the same. If you're talking about level, then adjusting the height of the individual legs should do the job for you. Good luck. Jim
  7. I'm no expert on robots, but I think Intelliquilt has a kit that will fit your machine. I've been told that as long as your APQS has horizontal wheels it can be fitted with an Intelliquilt robot. Jim
  8. I don't use SoFine nor Omni, just YLI Longarm Professional and Bottom Line, but I've found size 100 and 110 serve my needs. Actually I use 100's more now than I ever did while using MR type needles. The Schmetz SERV 7's have a different needle body that makes them stiffer, so a smaller needle can be used without the corresponding deflection usually associated with that size. (I think Schmetz advertize one needle smaller because of the design). The eye design is intended to provide a larger loop which will reduce missed stitches. I'm sure you will like them. Jim
  9. Tammie: Have you considered simply having your table cut down? I think it's doable, and having it cut down may be easier than replacing it. good luck. Jim
  10. Tammy: Used APQS machines are great. Industrial quality, great factory support. You can hardly go wrong buying a used APQS machine. Start looking in the used machines for sale forum here. Good luck. Jim
  11. I think the conversion is definately worth it! Even if you don't mind the inconvience of more frequent (in my experience the "L" bobbin is closer to half the "M" capacity thean 2/3) bobbin changes, most of the tension issues I've had, began as a result of a bobbin change. Having both L and M bobin systems on my Ult 2, I can say from expierence, there is no difference in stitch quality. I built my own conversion 14 years ago, and it took me a while to get it "dialed in". Since APQS now has all the parts, and I'm sure great instructions for the conversion, I would expect no problems with the switch. I'd urge you to do it. If you don't, every time you change the L bobbin you'll wish you had. Jim
  12. I think it's an essential part of the regulated stitch control system. I have an Intellistitch regulator on my Ult 2, so I'm not intimately familiar with APQS's system and their terminology, but I think that's what the term means. Jim
  13. Sorry Betsy, I don't have a camera, nor a smart phone, so photos aren't an option. What I did was to use the large wire spool guides that came with my Ult 2, and faced them backwards (toward the back of the machine rather than to the front as intended). I used the screws that held a cover on the back of my machine, to fasten them. I had replaced the original wire guides with some Gammill ceramic eyed guides earlier so the wire ones were just laying around. I took some heavy stiff wire, and bent a hook on each end that captured the wire guide eyes, made a large loop around the cord with a zip tie, then hooked a coil spring about 5 inches long, one end to the zip tie loop and the other to the wire between the two repurpaced thread guides. The full length of the rig is short enough (actually adjustable by the size of the zip tie loop) to lift the cord up and keep it from dragging on the table. The spring serves to provide movement and forgiving tension in the event the cord should get stuck on something. The spring just happened to be one I had laying around salvaged off something else I had at one time. It looks like a short screen door spring with the typical hooks on the ends. Hope this helps you understand what I did. Jim
  14. Carol: Here's a thought. You could string a cable above and parallel to your horizontal track, fix a pulley and block to the cable, and then attach some sort of line from your cord to the pulley. That way as you moved the machine, the cord would be dragged along almost effortlessly by the machine and pulley. I haven't done this, so it's just a thought, but probably the way I'd attack the problem if I wanted to. I just have 2 large wire thread guides screwed to the back of my machine, with a stiff wire between them, then a wire and spring hooking the cord, to that set up. It all I need to keep my cord from catching on the back side of my table. Jim
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