jimerickson

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jimerickson last won the day on August 5

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About jimerickson

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    West Tawakoni, TX

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  1. jimerickson

    Needle Breaks

    Sounds more like a timing problem to me. If your timing isn't just right, when your needle deflects, it can hit the hook and break. Check your needle bar height too. It may be a bit too low. Are you sure you're using the proper needle, and an appropriate size? If you're using one smaller than size 16 (3.5), you may be getting excessive flex which might cause the problem. In fact I switched from MR type needles to Schmetz SERV 7 type needles a couple of years ago, and that almost eliminated any needle breaks for me. The improvement is because the Schmetz needles are stiffer than their MR equivalent. good luck. Jim
  2. jimerickson

    Need Lighting advice!!

    It depends on how much, and what kind of light you want. For my application, I think the wattage of my bulbs are 12w - 14w. Hope this helps. Jim
  3. jimerickson

    Thread/Bobbin question

    I looked at my boxes, and realized they were pencil boxes, and that I'd taken a piece of one inch PVC, cut to length, then split the long way. placed the two halves in the bottom of the boxes where they fit my M bobbins and bobbin case nicely. Jim
  4. jimerickson

    Thread/Bobbin question

    I use a pencil box. or maybe it's a box designed for bobbins, I can't remember. I put the bobbin case along with any bobbins wound with the thread the case is adjusted for, in it. That way I can use up extra bobbin thread if the proper color happens to already be on a bobbin. I have a box for each different thread and bobbin. Keeps things convenient and well organized without much effort. Jim
  5. jimerickson

    Can't get tension adjusted

    Remove the entire upper tension assembly. Take it apart, clean it, reassemble, check to see that the take-up spring is moving properly, make sure there is adequate spring tension on it. Put it back on the machine, adjust the check spring position, re-thread, and give it a try. Jim
  6. Dawn: If you check, I think you'll find that the Ult 2 has a 20" throat, not the 18" you stated. Don't make them smaller than they actually are LOL. Jim
  7. jimerickson

    Track lighting above long arm?

    I use track lighting to illuminate both for my long arms, and the entire space of our quilting studio. Began years ago with halogen bulbs, which I've since replaced with LED's. I like track because of the flexibility it offers. If the original lighting plan is incorrect, or if your needs change, it is easy to move, add, or remove fixtures to better light your area. I've used both PAR 38, and PAR 30 narrow beam flood bulbs. Chose narrow beam because most of the light I need is task lighting. I've primarily bought 2700K or 3000K light color range, and 900-1200 lumen bulbs. Back in 2013 I paid over $35 per bulb, for the PAR 38's but the price has come down substantially since. As an example, I just replaced the florescent bulbs in my shop (screw in bulbs for track fixtures) a couple of weeks ago. I bought 40 PAR 30, 900 lumen, 25 degree floods for less than $100. Bought them off e-bay. I didn't like the florescent bulbs because they were slow to come to full illumination, especially when it's cold, and weren't focused at all. The electric consumption between the LED and the florescent bulbs were about the same. (the LED' are way less than the original halogens) I've managed to buy the the individual fixtures for about $10 each. ( over the years I've probably bought 150 fixtures to light both the house and work areas) When you flood the task areas with light, there doesn't seem much need for additional ambient light. Do yourself a favor and install track lighting over your quilting machine. Then if you need to move light around, it's easy to do. Jim
  8. jimerickson

    Millenium was in storage

    Dianne: I'd un-thread it, remove the bobbin case turn off the stitch regulator and let it run, to see it the noise doesn't go away by itself. I'd add a couple more drops of oil to the wicks, and try and oil the needle bar as well. If the noise doesn't quiet or go away after a few minutes then it might be best to call APQS. Jim
  9. If the door to the room is on one of the short walls, think about setting the machine up so the end is adjacent to the door opening. That way extra passage room will be provided by the doorway. I really wouldn't want to limit myself to a ten foot table if I could avoid it in any way. Keep in mind that the backing of every quilt needs to be larger than the finished quilt, so when you take off the length for machine clearance , and the extra length for the backing, you probably can't quilt more than 100 inch width. I don't do a lot of quilts wider than that, but I've done quite a few. Hope this helps. Jim
  10. jimerickson

    Needle up/ down issue

    I'd contact APQS. It sounds like a stitch regulator problem. It could be the needle positioner speed is too fast, but I don't think it would work in manual mode if it were. I don't have an APQS stitch regulator on my machine, so I don't have any first hand experience. I'm just guessing based on what I've read here over the years. Good luck. Jim
  11. jimerickson

    Long arm needles

    Nigel: Did you ever get around to trying the Schmetz SERV 7 needles? I don't know if you ever have stitch issues with your Intelliquilter, but if you do I believe the Schmetz needle would help. I can't remember breaking one since I reported that over 2 years ago. I never damage the points anymore either. I also never even bother to change needle sizes these days. I just use the size 16/100 all the time. Jim
  12. jimerickson

    Broken bobbin thread

    Basic question: Do you have the bobbin in backwards? Have you tried a different bobbin? Maybe there's something wrong with the one you're using. Was the thread tangle in the bobbin basket, or behind the hook? I've found that sometimes bobbins are over filled and that can cause problems. Does the Magna Glide bobbin turn effortlessly in the bobbin case? Does the anti-backlash mechanism work properly? Jim
  13. jimerickson

    Repacking gearbox while on the rails

    Vic: Why worry? I've read that the grease in the gear box is only there to control noise, not for lubrication. If you're happy with how quiet/loud your machine is, why try and change it. I added grease to my Ult 2 some years back without removing it from the table. I think (I don't really remember for sure) I took off the gear box cover and used a putty knife to pack in some additional grease, then put the cover back on with new silicon sealer. My guess is that I wasted my time doing it. Jim
  14. jimerickson

    Kathy Plantz. Newbie

    You'll experience directional tension changes with whatever type machine you use. It's just part of multi-directional sewing. The best thing to do is fool with your top and bobbin tension 'til you get a result that satisfies you. I don't think speed has too much to do with stitch quality. Maybe if you sew very quickly the top tension is increased, but not nearly as much as it's affected by stitch length (short stitches are tighter on top than long stitches if you don't change your tension adjustment). Jim
  15. jimerickson

    Hot bobbin

    Cairns: What are your using to control backlash in the bobbin case? It may be that there is too much tension being put on the bobbin, and that's heating it up. The other issue may be the bobbin you're using. What kind? Have you tried a different bobbin with the same heat issue? I've found that the quality control on the manufacture of some bobbins being sold, isn't all that great, so I only buy certain brands of bobbins. Jim