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jimerickson last won the day on June 16

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About jimerickson

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    West Tawakoni, TX

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  1. jimerickson

    Track lighting above long arm?

    I use track lighting to illuminate both for my long arms, and the entire space of our quilting studio. Began years ago with halogen bulbs, which I've since replaced with LED's. I like track because of the flexibility it offers. If the original lighting plan is incorrect, or if your needs change, it is easy to move, add, or remove fixtures to better light your area. I've used both PAR 38, and PAR 30 narrow beam flood bulbs. Chose narrow beam because most of the light I need is task lighting. I've primarily bought 2700K or 3000K light color range, and 900-1200 lumen bulbs. Back in 2013 I paid over $35 per bulb, for the PAR 38's but the price has come down substantially since. As an example, I just replaced the florescent bulbs in my shop (screw in bulbs for track fixtures) a couple of weeks ago. I bought 40 PAR 30, 900 lumen, 25 degree floods for less than $100. Bought them off e-bay. I didn't like the florescent bulbs because they were slow to come to full illumination, especially when it's cold, and weren't focused at all. The electric consumption between the LED and the florescent bulbs were about the same. (the LED' are way less than the original halogens) I've managed to buy the the individual fixtures for about $10 each. ( over the years I've probably bought 150 fixtures to light both the house and work areas) When you flood the task areas with light, there doesn't seem much need for additional ambient light. Do yourself a favor and install track lighting over your quilting machine. Then if you need to move light around, it's easy to do. Jim
  2. jimerickson

    Millenium was in storage

    Dianne: I'd un-thread it, remove the bobbin case turn off the stitch regulator and let it run, to see it the noise doesn't go away by itself. I'd add a couple more drops of oil to the wicks, and try and oil the needle bar as well. If the noise doesn't quiet or go away after a few minutes then it might be best to call APQS. Jim
  3. If the door to the room is on one of the short walls, think about setting the machine up so the end is adjacent to the door opening. That way extra passage room will be provided by the doorway. I really wouldn't want to limit myself to a ten foot table if I could avoid it in any way. Keep in mind that the backing of every quilt needs to be larger than the finished quilt, so when you take off the length for machine clearance , and the extra length for the backing, you probably can't quilt more than 100 inch width. I don't do a lot of quilts wider than that, but I've done quite a few. Hope this helps. Jim
  4. jimerickson

    Needle up/ down issue

    I'd contact APQS. It sounds like a stitch regulator problem. It could be the needle positioner speed is too fast, but I don't think it would work in manual mode if it were. I don't have an APQS stitch regulator on my machine, so I don't have any first hand experience. I'm just guessing based on what I've read here over the years. Good luck. Jim
  5. jimerickson

    Long arm needles

    Nigel: Did you ever get around to trying the Schmetz SERV 7 needles? I don't know if you ever have stitch issues with your Intelliquilter, but if you do I believe the Schmetz needle would help. I can't remember breaking one since I reported that over 2 years ago. I never damage the points anymore either. I also never even bother to change needle sizes these days. I just use the size 16/100 all the time. Jim
  6. jimerickson

    Broken bobbin thread

    Basic question: Do you have the bobbin in backwards? Have you tried a different bobbin? Maybe there's something wrong with the one you're using. Was the thread tangle in the bobbin basket, or behind the hook? I've found that sometimes bobbins are over filled and that can cause problems. Does the Magna Glide bobbin turn effortlessly in the bobbin case? Does the anti-backlash mechanism work properly? Jim
  7. jimerickson

    Repacking gearbox while on the rails

    Vic: Why worry? I've read that the grease in the gear box is only there to control noise, not for lubrication. If you're happy with how quiet/loud your machine is, why try and change it. I added grease to my Ult 2 some years back without removing it from the table. I think (I don't really remember for sure) I took off the gear box cover and used a putty knife to pack in some additional grease, then put the cover back on with new silicon sealer. My guess is that I wasted my time doing it. Jim
  8. jimerickson

    Kathy Plantz. Newbie

    You'll experience directional tension changes with whatever type machine you use. It's just part of multi-directional sewing. The best thing to do is fool with your top and bobbin tension 'til you get a result that satisfies you. I don't think speed has too much to do with stitch quality. Maybe if you sew very quickly the top tension is increased, but not nearly as much as it's affected by stitch length (short stitches are tighter on top than long stitches if you don't change your tension adjustment). Jim
  9. jimerickson

    Hot bobbin

    Cairns: What are your using to control backlash in the bobbin case? It may be that there is too much tension being put on the bobbin, and that's heating it up. The other issue may be the bobbin you're using. What kind? Have you tried a different bobbin with the same heat issue? I've found that the quality control on the manufacture of some bobbins being sold, isn't all that great, so I only buy certain brands of bobbins. Jim
  10. jimerickson

    Kathy Plantz. Newbie

    You're probably experiencing "directional tension" issues. Tension will change depending on which direction you stitch due to how thread is pulled off the bobbin. It's something you will have to live with. You can help minimize it by tightening both top and bottom tensions a bit. Very accurate timing adjustments also help. Good luck. Jim
  11. jimerickson

    A-1 Elite stitch regulated longarm

    This is a real buy! For any of you longarm wanabes, this is a really good machine, at a real bargain price. Buy it. Jim
  12. jimerickson

    Quilt path vs Intelliquilter

    Mercedes: I think you need to start by deciding how you want the computerized system to help you quilt. Once you have a list of all the things you hope it will do for you, then begin asking if the system you're researching does that, and how it does it. You need to think of the system as a tool that assists you to quilt, rather than some sort of stand alone thing. Start with the tasks you like least doing manually, and work from there. Jim
  13. Cairns: It sounds like you need to reset your timing. My guess is that you did not tighten the hook down snugly enough, and the hook has changed position. Check the timing to make sure that is the problem, and then reset it, and tighten it down more strongly than before. Jim
  14. Lora: Get the M bobbin! Lots less problems with it than the L. No difference in stitch quality-twice the sewing time without a change. Jim
  15. Lora: Unless you have a lot of edge to edge business, I think it would be a mistake to "up-grade". How many quilts will it take to cover the $15000 plus cost of the new machine? If you have a lot of edge to edge business maybe you should be looking for another Ult 1 with Intelliquilter so you can run two machines at the same time. My guess is that you don't. If you decide to get the larger machine, transfer the Intelliquilter from your Ult 1 to the 30 inch machine if possible (I don't know whether the throat dimension limits instillation or not) You won't be able to get as much for you used Intelliquilter, as you will spend on a new replacement. Now all these thoughts are given assuming that you are happy with your Ult 1 set up. If you're dissatisfied with what you now have, the advise might not be best. Jim