peglu Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 I just finished a whole cloth and am ready to attach the binding. After looking at it finished, it really needs a scalloped border, and I don't have a scallop template. How can I mark scallops without a template? I know there is a way to do it useing my circle templates, but I can't find the directions anywhere. Any help out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rita Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Well -I was hoping to be able to help you...I googled "how to mark a scalloped edge on quilts"...all came up with the tool...sorry...Rita Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 ohmagosh! Math will be involved, but you can do this! If you want scallops (and not a serpentined edge) measure from corner to corner in both directions. If the top is square, you can put any size scallops you like that will evenly fit along the edge--if it is 60" square, you can use 12", 10", 6", 5" spaces, whatever will divide in 60" evenly. If your top is a rectangle, find a number that divides evenly into both measurements. If your top is 72" by 80"---nine will divide into them both (almost) giving you an answer of "9". Using a 9" distance for the scallops, one side will have 8 scallops and the longer side will have 9 scallops of almost the same size and make a nice round corner. You can also use a 10" spacing with a little fudging, giving you 7 scallops on one side and 8 scallops on the other. To mark the scallops, draw out a 10", 11", and 12" diameter circle using any paper you have around and cut them out. Mark the 9" spaces on the edge of the top using a removable marker. Audition each size circle in the space you have marked to see which scallop works best. A larger circle gives a shallower scallop. Fine-tune the template by a little trimming to get what looks best. Using the paper circle, mark the edge with anything you like and use the marked line as the place where you will put the edge of the binding. Do not trim the top--just sew the binding on butted up against the line. Trim after attaching the binding--much easier that trimming first and then sewing. I hope this wasn't too confusing. Can't wait to see the finished wholecloth!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peglu Posted December 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Hey Linda, what about the corners? (Your directions are awesome! Just what I needed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peglu Posted December 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Or, what if I decide on a curved (s shaped) border. You know, one curve up, then one down? Is that harder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Linda's directions are good. You can either use 3/4 of the template for the corners or draw what you can of the last circle on each side and you will come up with a pretty scallop. Clear as mud? I always start in the center and work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Hi again--you use the same exact circle to mark the corners--it's the last scallop on one edge curving into the first scallop of the next edge. Serpentined is the same method, but you must have an odd number of curves to turn the corner. Mark a line with a wash-away pen about 4 1/4 from all edges of the top. This is the placement line for the curves. Use the marked corners as the measurement to divide for your curves. Divide the measurement so you end with an odd number and mark this distance all along the center line. You will want a shallow curve and thus need to use a large circle to mark. Use a compass to draw a circle segment and audition several sizes to get a pleasing S-curve size. Cut out the circle segment and place them so each opposite edge sits on the line exactly on the marks. Mark the first edge as a "frown" then a smile, frown,smile --all the way across ending with a frown. The first and last frowns make half the corner. OK--I drew a visual aid! I'll post it right after this one. Key points--S-curves need an odd number to turn the corner. Use a big circle segment for shallower curves. Use whatever size has a pleasing look. The same method can be used to mark feather spines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Here's the visual--- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peglu Posted December 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Well, 6 hours later, I give up. Got the scalloped border all marked fine. Then, off to make the bias binding. Yah right! I sewed the stupid thing wrong 3 times before I got it right. But, I did get it right finally and tried to put it on the quilt. What a nightmare! I could not get around the points (dips) to save my life. Finally got one side done and stood back to take a look. The ##@@ binding is a different color that the quilt. The quilt is white white and the binding is off white and it really shows. Soo..... Tuesday I will make new binding, and I have decided to try the serpentine border so I can avoid the peaks. Think I'm not ready for that yet. Thanks for all of your help. Should have pics up by Thurs. morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 Peggy just make a clip into the inside point. Then you will be able to bring the binding around to the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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