ffq-lar

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ffq-lar last won the day on June 6

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About ffq-lar

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    http://www.topperquilttools.com

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  1. ffq-lar

    leaders not straight

    Before you do any drastic trimming, make sure your rollers are exactly parallel, both with each other and the floor. The eye bolts of the back roller determine the height from the floor and must all have the same number of threads showing. Ditto with the threads of the bolts of the front roller---those one stick out towards the front and if one side is farther out it will make your backer sag on one side, making you suspect the leaders and not the rollers. Your photo looks more like sag than uneven leaders. If it was set up by a dealer, this should have all been checked. If you set it up, it's not stressed enough in the instructions how crucial this step is to good results. Good luck!
  2. The guys at the factory screw things down "man tight" and usually the exposed shaft will have minute gouges from the screws. Using fine-grade sandpaper or emery cloth around the shaft and running it at a slooooow speed will sand off the gouges and reduce the shaft so the assembly slides on easier than it came off. What I usually forget is to replace the hook retaining finger and wail to my hubby that it's "NOT WORKING"! Good luck and it will be fine!
  3. I believe Gammill sells small cylindrical needle-aligning magnets just for this task. You insert the needle and place the end of the magnet on the eye of the needle, projecting out towards you. You can easily see whether the needle eye is facing forward perfectly. And if you like "6:25" or "6:35", it's easy to turn it slightly and check again. https://www.longarmsupplies.net/needlealignmentmagnet.aspx
  4. ffq-lar

    How to do this

    The quilt will need to be completely marked before an attempt is made. The marker-on-a-string method works well, or a long (longlonglong) piece of template plastic with holes punched in even increments to mark through---with a blue wash-away marker so the marks stay through the process. Either method needs to have you anchor the center pivot well, so the top needs to be well-secured to the marking surface. On a domestic with the feed dogs up and an even-feed foot, follow the lines. On a longarm, stitched with a guide/template to keep on the line and obviously, one quilting field at a time. Each circle can be stitched entirely by advancing and rolling back. Or each circle-segment stitched as you fill an area, with lots of starts and stops. In either case, you will get distortion (as you can see in the photos--it will never hang straight but is lovely draped) caused by the pushing and pulling of the foot on diagonals. That is accentuated if you stitch all in the same direction every time. It's a beautiful look that's hard to pull off, but well-loved by modern quilters. Perhaps using fusible batting might stabilize it enough to pull it off without as much distortion.
  5. I'm sending good thoughts and a gentle hug, Lin. As for the quilter's garage sale---it should be advertised exactly as that and you'll be overrun with buyers. I've seen several pricing methods. One was by the yard---the buyer measured the fabric she wanted on the honor system and paid for the total yardage---$5 per yard. FQs and smaller pieces were done by weight--$5 per pound. A yard of good quality fabric is a bit less than a pound. This way, no one had to measure and price each piece, which takes an army if there is a big stash. Don't do any cutting! Notions in close-to-perfect shape/rulers with instructions, etc---half regular retail. Used notions and partial spools of thread--set up a table with everything the same price---like $2. For our quilt guild boutique at the last show we bagged like-items (six zippers, 5 spools of thread, used notions, buttons, etc, into $2 grab bags. Those went fast! Here's the other method I saw recently. Regular sized paper grocery bags---all you can fit in the bag for $20. This way, only minimal sorting and no pricing. The fabric that was left was sold two week later at $15 per bag. The price went down every couple of weeks until most of the stuff was gone. Put "Prices Firm" signs out so there's no haggling. Quilters know a bargain when they see it. Good luck!
  6. Hi Dory! Attached is the spacing and pathway I use for basting for hand-quilters. It would work fine for DSM quilting as well. I use a long stitch length and thick, slippery, contrasting thread for ease of removal. This path requires no long vertical stitching but you still end up with a grid. The customer can remove the stitching as she goes or save it until the end. I charge a half-cent per square inch and usually do only one a year.
  7. ffq-lar

    Wondering

    A couple of things would help. It looks like the quilt shrunk when it was washed and that crinkled look (which many find desirable) caused the quilting to be not as prominent. Make sure the fabrics have all been washed, both for shrinkage and dye bleed, and that the batting used has little or no shrinkage. That would be 100% poly or several blends, though cotton batting in any percentage will shrink some. That way, after quilting there will be no shrinkage to cause that "blending" of the quilting. If you have no control over customer quilts, communicate with them as to fabric and batting shrinkage if it's destined for a show. As you can imagine, the award-winners at shows have been carefully assembled with fabric that has been shrunk, treated, starched, measured carefully at every step, and while maybe not washed, at least dampened and blocked. That will retain the crispness of the fabric and the stitch definition of the quilting. So, proper fabric handling and a proper fiber content of the batting will help. Washing and drying in machines will age your quilts. Hand-laundering and laying flat to dry will keep them the same condition and size for a long time.
  8. If your Millie is newer, it is equipped with Quilt Glide, which smooths out the stitches when doing micro-stitching. If it is on, it will continue to slowly make stitches when you pause in regulated mode. Find the switch to turn it off. If you have an older machine, the needle-up/down speed can be adjusted easily and if it's making extra stitches when you stop, it needs to be slowed a bit. Look in your manual or on the site---look under "support" and then "commonly asked questions" for instructions on how to adjust a small screw under the hood to alter the speed of your needle up/down. Good luck.
  9. Joyce, I have someone interested---see my reply above with my email address that I posted on March 4th. Thanks!
  10. You have a taker, Joyce! A quilter named Teri would love to give this a new home. Message me your contact information and I'll pass it along. lindarech@comcast.net
  11. Hi Joyce---I posted this on my quilt guild Facebook page and I'm sure you'll get lots of takers. I'm in Olympia.
  12. You should check the motor brushes in the power advance, especially if your 2004 model hasn't had them replaced before. Worn brushes cause an erratic electrical connection and can make the motor sound different. They are easy to replace and easy to find. The shavings could also be graphite from the worn brushes. Look in your manual for where they are and how to replace them.
  13. Did you mean a "Rulermate"? I don't know what an edge mate is. There are several Facebook groups that buy and sell longarms and accessories. Search using those words to join a group and hopefully find what you're looking for. Good luck!
  14. I have a friend interested---how long are the rollers (she needs 12' or 10') and do you have the service records? The serial number is on the throat and providing that would confirm the year made. It looks like a very well-maintained machine. Also, for easier communication (not just for me) please provide a way to contact you beside a message here---phone number or email would be very helpful. Good luck with your sale.
  15. I'm puzzled by the question about the hole in the top of the cone, since the thread feeds off the cones in exactly the same way for both and the hole isn't used for any reason in the winding process. Leaving on the net is best. More control of the thread will aid with even feeding. Apply some Sewer's Aid if you have some to keep the thread cooler. Try another cone of Bottom Line to make sure it isn't a bad cone of thread. Good luck finding the problem so you can get to the fun part of the process.