anniemueller Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I'm nearing the end of a large quilt. Before I started, I measured through the centers and at both sides each way. On the long side of the quilt, one side was one inch shorter than the other. I did nothing to compensate for this. Sure enough, I can see that one corner of the bottom edge will be an inch short. For this customer, it is not a problem. The quilt is huge, I don't plan to point it out to her, I doubt that she'll notice. I was just wondering....from the pros out there, and anyone else who wants to chime in....how would you have dealt with this from the start to make all of the edges square? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Annie, If I had noticed it before I quilted it and I knew the customer might be upset I'd call her and give her the option to add to it or leave it as is. She'll just have to square the quilt up and cut the 1" off the other sides if it bothers her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meg_marsh Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I personally first make sure that the top border is totally square and then square up with each roll. I actually square up off the first border seam rather than the edge of the quilt - seems to work better for me & I learned earlier this year that Linda R. also does this & I bow to her knowledge - she know so much and teaches all of us so much. Anyway, by squaring up with each roll, it does take a bit longer, but this generally shows me what has to be "worked in" as I go rather than having to deal with it a the bottom of the quilt. Working in a smidge as I go is so much easier than an inch at the bottom. As an added note, I use my channel locks as well as tape markers on my roller to keep me square - both horizontal and vertical. This is especially important if your quilt has mitered corners. Square is so important for mitered corners due to the fact that the binding must match up to the miter of the quilt - that is unless the fabric is dark or totally busy and doesn't show anything......... LOL. PS - I work in to the shorter length - not stretch to the longer length!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tracyv Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Meg - Can you explain more about how you use the first border to help you square up? Sounds like a good technique, but I want to make sure that I understand completely. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Annie is this a matter of just not being square or is it a matter that one of the borders was 1" shorter? I understood it to be a shorter border so no fudge room. It is a matter of just not being square then Meg gives great advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anniemueller Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 It was an odd border option. She mitered the border, I'm not sure why. I would not have chosen to do that. I think the problem was that one of the borders was shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Maybe the miter was stretched with handling. I learned in a great class to stitch a diagonal basting line across the miter to stabilize it. As for how to "help" an un-square top, a bit of the extra fabric can be worked in as you advance. Load the top (I float) and use your channel locks to make the first seam line perfectly horizontal. Pin the seam and also the border edge. This starts the top off square. Don't use the edge as a guide since it may not be exact. Take a look at the top and line up the border seam on the sides the same way. Engage the channel locks and make the seam perfectly vertical. Pin the seams and the border edge. I then use a water-erase pen to mark the placement of the side seams and edges on the top roller canvas. This is what you will shoot for as you advance the top. If there is anything weird going on in the interior, now you will see it and be able to handle it right away. The secret is to only be concerned with what is in the stitching field. Don't worry about the bottom of the quilt. Square everything you possibly can when you get to it--keep it as square as possible as you advance, and wherever there is wonkiness, deal with it when it is in the stitching field. When you advance to the next area, try to get the marks and the seams/edges to line up. Pin in place and you are set. If that extra inch you found in the quilt was caused by poor piecing, some of it can be worked in with judicious use of curvy stitching or piano keys. If it was caused by stretching the miter, not a lot can be done to fix it unless you can starch and steam it into better shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meg_marsh Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 I think Linda explained using the border to square a quilt very well - thanks Linda. As Linda stated: "Load the top (I float) and use your channel locks to make the first seam line perfectly horizontal. Pin the seam and also the border edge. This starts the top off square. Don't use the edge as a guide since it may not be exact." The first seam line is most often the seam line of the outer border. As an added note - I don't stitch baste my borders - I pin baste them. Thanks again Linda.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anniemueller Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Thanks everyone. This is helpful. I haven't been as diligent about keeping the vertical edges aligned as I could be. I can see that this one slanted to the side as I went. Just a little. Next time will be better:-))) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.