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Meshelly

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Float the top and pin-baste the first half working to the center, patting everything flat. Stitch-baste the center area and work your way backwards to stitch-baste back to the top, removing the pins as you get to them. This technique allows you to adjust the fabric relative to the center. Then advance to the center and stitch-baste from there to the bottom. I'm a great pin-baster and probably wouldn't bother with the stitch-basting. But that's just me. ;)


Linda Rech

Finely Finished Quilts

Millennium on Bliss rails--hand-guided

http://www.topperquilttools.com

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Thank you! I tried something similar but without pin basting and I am now readjusting quite a bit so I don't end up with pleats in the backing. Probably doesn't help that the backing is a very stretchy flannel either. Fun, fun, fun! Never a dull day in long arm quilting!

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I'm curious what the design is where it has to be started in the middle?  Is it all open space?  I make a lot of my own quilts with minimal piecing and mostly open negative space...I usually mark the entire quilt top first then go in and quilt the "anchors".  I quilt those sections first to stabilize the quilt (essentially what one would accomplish with basting...but it's permanent quilting) and then going back and fill in the pre-marked designs...


Valerie Smith

Pumpkin Patch Quilter

http://www.pumpkinpatchquilter.com

http://www.pumpkinpatchquilter.etsy.com

Pantograph Co-Designer for Urban Elementz

https://www.urbanelementz.com/shop/category/quilting-designs-by-designer/valerie-smith/

 

**As of March 2015 I will be Quilting on a 2000 APQS Certified Used Millennium!**

Quilting from January 2013 to February 2015 on a non-stitch regulated 1999 Ultimate 1

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I'm curious what the design is where it has to be started in the middle?  Is it all open space?  I make a lot of my own quilts with minimal piecing and mostly open negative space...I usually mark the entire quilt top first then go in and quilt the "anchors".  I quilt those sections first to stabilize the quilt (essentially what one would accomplish with basting...but it's permanent quilting) and then going back and fill in the pre-marked designs...

 

Just wondering, do you do this over the whole quilt or just the section you're working on then roll to the next section?


Millenium

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Float the top and pin-baste the first half working to the center, patting everything flat. Stitch-baste the center area and work your way backwards to stitch-baste back to the top, removing the pins as you get to them. This technique allows you to adjust the fabric relative to the center. Then advance to the center and stitch-baste from there to the bottom. I'm a great pin-baster and probably wouldn't bother with the stitch-basting. But that's just me. ;)

Float the top and pin-baste the first half working to the center, patting everything flat. Stitch-baste the center area and work your way backwards to stitch-baste back to the top, removing the pins as you get to them. This technique allows you to adjust the fabric relative to the center. Then advance to the center and stitch-baste from there to the bottom. I'm a great pin-baster and probably wouldn't bother with the stitch-basting. But that's just me. ;)

Hey Linda,

I am thinking of trying this on a Judy Niemeyer quilt I am about to load, a Fire Island Hosta. I want to build the design from the Center out. I also think it might help with keeping the Center flatter. What do you think? Since I have never approached a quilt this way I am a little nervous....

How far apart do you put your pins?

What do you mean by stitch basting?


9BD280A625D2D6D2E2166C9DE34879A9.png

Quilting from the Heart

APQS Millenium, Circle Lord equipped, hand guided and lov'n it!!!

http://rosecityquilter.wordpress.com/

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Hi Ardelle. Since you want to start stitching in the center (and yes, I think it would keep the center flatter) your goal is to stabilize the upper part of the quilt while you work on the center. Start at the top edge and pin across the border with enough pins that advancing the quilt won't turn over and crease the top edge. Maybe three or four fingers-widths apart. Next pin through the points of the hosta design, making sure the areas are flat between them. Keep pinning every six inches or so until you reach the center. Pin all around the center area to keep it flat. Stitch in the center, then advance to the next circle of piecing, stabilizing with pins below this area. All the area above where you're working will be stable, and below the center can be fully stabilized first or you can pin it as you get to it. 

 

The stitch-basting refers to doing the same thing except with thread instead of pins. You can stabilize above the center by doing single stitches with your needle positioning button and moving the head an inch away and making another stitch. Or set SPI at 8 and stitching in manual. You'll stitch slowly and move the head fast enough to make half-inch or longer stitches. This is my technique for basting a top for hand quilting. You'll remove your pins or stitches as you begin stitching in the area.

 

You can stitch all areas using the same color thread and not worry about about working fullness into the piecing while you do it. It'll all be stable and hopefully flat. 

 

It's similar to traditional basting for hand-quilting. The entire top is basted before the start so it's flat and stable.


Linda Rech

Finely Finished Quilts

Millennium on Bliss rails--hand-guided

http://www.topperquilttools.com

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I stabilize major sections of the entire quilt and then go back and "fill in".  :)  

 

 

Just wondering, do you do this over the whole quilt or just the section you're working on then roll to the next section?


Valerie Smith

Pumpkin Patch Quilter

http://www.pumpkinpatchquilter.com

http://www.pumpkinpatchquilter.etsy.com

Pantograph Co-Designer for Urban Elementz

https://www.urbanelementz.com/shop/category/quilting-designs-by-designer/valerie-smith/

 

**As of March 2015 I will be Quilting on a 2000 APQS Certified Used Millennium!**

Quilting from January 2013 to February 2015 on a non-stitch regulated 1999 Ultimate 1

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