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mamu

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Everything posted by mamu

  1. JollyDude I would not scrap this machine! If it only runs wide open, then the settings are not adjusted or the stitch regulator is not engaged. Pictures would go a long way in us helping you to figure out what is going on with this machine. The ULT1 machines are power house machines and there are many of them that are still running very well today. Another option would be to contact APQS and see if they have any suggestions for you.
  2. RobyM , there is a phone number listed in the ad...try calling it. Since they are moving they might be gone?
  3. I have an Ult2 machine and use it primarily for pantographs. Ult2 is not stitch regulated. It is not computerized. For pantographs you stand behind the machine and move it with a laser light reading the design. My machine did not have the laser light but I was able to get one from another company and attach it. Mine is battery operated which works well as I don't have to fiddle with electric cords. Battery lasts a very long time but you do have to remember to turn it off when not in use! The throat space or quilting space before advancement is about 21". Depends on thickness of batting and the amount of quilt on the take up roller. The ULT2 is a workhorse machine.
  4. If you feel you can make her an offer within your budget, then do that. There are a lot of variables that come into play when purchasing a used machine. Like the age of the machine, only one owner, when was it last serviced, support for problem solving, what type of frame, and so on. Are there any additional items like patterns (pantographs), thread, bobbins, needles and manual book included in price? These are all things to consider when purchasing a used machine. I am not familiar with this type of machine so cannot comment on the pricing. I would google this machine or go on eBay and see if you can find the machine there and what prices it might sell for
  5. The only thing I can think of is that it stretched when rolling the quilt. Since it was a T-shirt quilt, it should have been basted through out prior to quilting no matter which direction you had loaded the quilt top. I do not trust T-shirt quilts to not stretch, even if they had the proper interfacing on the shirt part, as they love to mess with you when quilting....lol.
  6. SueD is correct. You didn't quilt her quilt, she rented your machine and did it herself and that is what she will tell her friends and family...she did it ALL. This in no way reflects badly on you. Quite the opposite, she will tell them how much you helped her. For being in business of quilting for others, you need to take the bad tops with the good tops. You start picking and choosing what tops you will quilt and what you won't you WILL get a very bad reputation! I do agree that quilt instructors need to properly teach finish techniques, which most do not. I quilt for others and will 'fix' a wavy border on the first quilt. I do tell the owner the problems with the quilt and instruct on how to correct that in the future. Should I get more quilts from this person with the same problems, then I charge more money and tell them why the cost went up. It doesn't take too many of the increase in fees for them to do their quilts properly!! I have Never refused to quilt for a person because their quilt wasn't up to my person standards!
  7. Siska, The pattern is called Elephant Abstractions Quilt Pattern by Violet Craft you can purchase it on Amazon or google to find the pattern.
  8. For weight I probably would use a double bat...like 2 cotton battings. Wool is very nice for warmth and works well with cotton when using double battings.
  9. $1,000 ?? BUY IT!!! I have an ULT2 and love it... a total work horse machine!
  10. if you don't have an extra table that you can put at the side or back of your sewing table, you could use an ironing board to help hold the quilt
  11. I would suggest contacting customer support with your questions. They are very good at helping. Not all video's are compatible with the ULT2 since this is an older model no longer in production.
  12. If you are talking about adjustment to the needle bar... I would test the needle bar for movement. there should be absolutely NO movement in the needle bar. If there is, then you probably need to replace the needle bar. I had to do this with my ULT 2 that I purchased used. Once I got that done, then timed the machine. I haven't had any issues since. You stated that you machine was not stitching...no stitches at all? or incorrect stitches with tension and/or timing issues? I'm not totally sure of your question as to adjustment by screwing something related to the needle bar. ??
  13. Use poly extra loft for the trapunto and cotton for the foundation
  14. I am not aware of Wool Batting coming in White ... I would suggest taking a sample of your white fabric and putting it with the Natural color to see if it darkens the white. That will tell you if you want to continue to use the Natural colored batting. I have used Natural double bats with white and didn't feel like it darkened the white. But, it all depends on the White fabric and how tightly woven it is.
  15. mamu

    Ultimate II

    I have an ULT11 and use it for business. All of the suggestions that Nigel said are things that need to be checked right off. I know that I had alot of issues with my machine when I first got it (third hand used) until I found out that the needle bar was moving ever so slightly. Once I replaced that and secured it with absolutely no movement, all my problems stopped! The thread that you use is important. My machine does not like certain brands of thread... so you will have to try a few to see what works best with your machine. I find embroidery thread works very well...Omni, Glide, some Superior threads work well. Also make sure you are using the correct size needle for the thread you are using. I am assuming you got a manual with your machine. Look at that and check all areas of thread path for any burrs.. you can do this by using a small piece of nylon and run it around those areas to see if it catches. Sometimes the burr is so slight the naked eye can not detect it. Also check your needle plate for burrs. Make sure everything is nice and clean, oiled very well. Including the tension wheel. I actually had to replace mine. All parts can be obtained through APQS.
  16. It is the table and not the machine that is blissed. I would contact APQS to find out if they have a table that would fit your machine and if that table could be blissed.
  17. You need to contact APQS about a possible table that this machine can run on. Also ask about a manual One thing I would look at is the needle bar (the bar coming down from the machine that holds the needle)..there shouldn't be any movement at all. Sometimes these older machines can have a bar that has become loose just a bit and this will cause tension and stitch issues. If the machine hasn't run for a while, a good cleaning is needed. I would take all plates off and really clean things out well. Look at the bobbin casing, it will come out and probably everything there needs cleaned and oiled. You will need to learn how to 'time' your machine, as I am sure the timing is off since it has been sitting for a while. Timing instructions are in the manual but I also think APQS can help you with this. Make sure the table is balanced well. You may also need to look at the belts to the motor to make sure there is no wear on them and they are tight. You will not break this machine. It is an absolute work horse! Once you get it set up, cleaned, oiled and familiarized yourself with the machine... you will be very happy with it.
  18. The size is too small for what I was wanting. Thank you for letting me know. This price is Very Good for this machine!!!!
  19. what size head is this? 20 inch? also, would you be willing to break down and ship?
  20. Linda give good advice on the options of winding your own bobbins vs the pre wound bobbins. I exclusively use the pre wound as I found them to last longer than what I could wind myself. Also I get better stitch quality with the pre wounds. The only time I have ever had a problem is when I use a heavy weight top thread and the thinner pre wounds don't play well together. I typically do not match my thread colors, so this allows me more freedom too.
  21. I have had this problem happen and I have an older wooden table with my ULT11 machine. The Lenni doesn't have a large throat area and so you will need to move your laser light when beginning a quilt to make up for the difference of this problem. You might move it up .... you need to fiddle a bit to find the best spot when taking into consideration that your quilt is longer and you might possibly run into this problem when you get to the end of your quilt. I have also had to move my laser light when running into this problem towards the end of my quilting... it is doable but takes alot of adjustments, checking and re checking where the pattern will be, not fun. I mostly run into this type of problem when using a fleece or flannel backing that is bulky and take sup extra space. So, I have to plan accordingly for that. You stated you used a 10" pattern, you should have been able to complete your quilting without this happening.. but with the Lenni's small throat space, you just might need to consider smaller patterns for longer quilts.
  22. Clicking noise in bobbin case could be from it not being oiled. It your machine was running well at the shop, then the table must be the problem for the vibration. Check that it is in balance.
  23. If your light is flickering you need to replace the light bulb... you don't need a whole new light bar. You can get the light bulbs from APQS or Amazon
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