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Everything posted by mamu

  1. Linda give good advice on the options of winding your own bobbins vs the pre wound bobbins. I exclusively use the pre wound as I found them to last longer than what I could wind myself. Also I get better stitch quality with the pre wounds. The only time I have ever had a problem is when I use a heavy weight top thread and the thinner pre wounds don't play well together. I typically do not match my thread colors, so this allows me more freedom too.
  2. I have had this problem happen and I have an older wooden table with my ULT11 machine. The Lenni doesn't have a large throat area and so you will need to move your laser light when beginning a quilt to make up for the difference of this problem. You might move it up .... you need to fiddle a bit to find the best spot when taking into consideration that your quilt is longer and you might possibly run into this problem when you get to the end of your quilt. I have also had to move my laser light when running into this problem towards the end of my quilting... it is doable but takes alot of adjustments, checking and re checking where the pattern will be, not fun. I mostly run into this type of problem when using a fleece or flannel backing that is bulky and take sup extra space. So, I have to plan accordingly for that. You stated you used a 10" pattern, you should have been able to complete your quilting without this happening.. but with the Lenni's small throat space, you just might need to consider smaller patterns for longer quilts.
  3. Clicking noise in bobbin case could be from it not being oiled. It your machine was running well at the shop, then the table must be the problem for the vibration. Check that it is in balance.
  4. If your light is flickering you need to replace the light bulb... you don't need a whole new light bar. You can get the light bulbs from APQS or Amazon
  5. I would contact your local APQS dealer for your area and let them know what you are looking for. They sometimes take in on trade used machines or may know of someone wanting to sell privately. Also, continue to check the machines on the APQS web site... they sometimes have demo's for sale at a nice discount.
  6. don't give your talents away... you can charge per inch or by the hour. For a small baby quilt that is not custom, but more of a pantograph edge to edge design, I would charge one lump sum fee. My minimum fee is $40 plus thread and batting. I do not do custom work, only edge to edge designs mainly pantographs. I charge by the inch for larger quilts... example for a quilt that is 70x95 = 6,650x.01= $66.50
  7. Where in Idaho? Can you change out the feet and does it have a laser light?
  8. Your quilts are lovely. I haven't seen a colorway like this one before.. absolutely STUNNING!!
  9. It looks like the last posting on their FB page was 11/2018 If I were you I would start proceedings to get your money back
  10. This normally a clue that the light is going out. However, you can take the bulb out rock it back and forth a couple times and then re insert it. I have done this a few times and it always works for me until I can get a replacement bulb
  11. what were you thinking for the whole lot?
  12. I also notice that occasionally I will see where there is some shifting even with basting both left/right sides with each advancement. When quilting right to left consistently..the stitches and pull of the machine going over the quilt, will make the top shift ever so slightly. To avoid this, quilt from both directions... right to left next row left to right. Some panto patterns will make this difficult to do both directions. I haven't found another way to do panto's to avoid the shifting.
  13. Where are you located and what is the asking price?
  14. What year is this machine? when was it last serviced? One owner? does the custom wooden bars come with it? by the way, interesting lighting system...does it add more weight to the machine head?
  15. sometimes if you spritz with water and rub with cloth they will close up.. be careful not to rub too much as you don't want to add rub marks to the quilt.
  16. There is a way called 'skinning' which is like skinning and animal hide. What you do is pull up the top away from the batting, till you see stitches and the you run a blade across those stitches clipping them, continue to do this till all stitches are clipped. Then remove thread bits. You do have to be very careful that you do not cut your fabric top! that is a problem when doing this method. I only resort to doing this when I have very large areas or even a whole quilt that I need to pull all threads out of. I also flip the quilt over and pull the backing away from the batting while blading the threads...this way I don't stretch the quilt top and I am not as freaked if I clip the fabric as it can be repaired easily.
  17. I think it might be the fabric choice and not your machine, also batting can make this happen. Looks pretty normal to me... I really don't see a problem.
  18. I have an ULT11, sometimes my thread would leave the thread I got some fishing rod guides (the circle things that you thread the fish line through on the rod) and glued them in several places on my machine to help keep the thread in proper line. I no longer have my thread jump out of the guides. Another thought.. check your needle shaft...if there is any play in the shaft then it needs to be replaced. Also, what Jim said...make sure your timing isn't off on your machine.
  19. No, this is machine quilted. Perhaps longarm digital computer stitched
  20. CathyP I have an ULT11 with stitch regulator that was put on after market by IntelliStitch. However, I don't think they offer this option anymore unless you purchase their IQ computer system.