caddyhomes

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About caddyhomes

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  • Birthday 11/16/1954

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  1. In answering my own question, I experimented and have found a great solution to closing up the holes left after removing stitches. I mix 1 tsp of a product called UNIQUE Fray Stop into 1 cup of water and spritz that over the line of holes. I dabbed the product into the fabric, let it dry, and wow, was I amazed at how it filled in those holes. The product is meant for fabrics, is toxic free, and is safe for all fabrics. I did test it on a back seam before I treated the affected area. I have no idea where I got that Fray Stop, but will certainly check out all my sewing stops and pick up more. The angst is gone!
  2. In asking my own question, I experimented and have found a great solution to closing up the holes left after removing stitches. I mix 1 tsp of a product called UNIQUE Fray Stop into 1 cup of water and spritz that over the line of holes. I dabbed the product into the fabric, let it dry, and wow, was I amazed at how it filled in those holes. The product is meant for fabrics, is toxic free, and is safe for all fabrics. I did test it on a back seam before I treated the affected area. I have no idea where I got that Fray Stop, but will certainly check out all my sewing stops and pick up more. The angst is gone!
  3. I had to remove stitches and redo a section of a quilt - but now the fabric has needle holes in it. What is the wisdom out there to close or at the least relax the holes left by the needle?
  4. Did you sell your pantograph collection?
  5. I determined the problem. Superior thread is directionally challenged. Any movement of the needle up and to the left broke the thread. Once I changed my pattern and stitched only from left to right there was no breakage. I put a note on the spools of superior giving myself a heads up if I ever use it again. I may use up those spools in my serger.
  6. I’m having thread fraying and breaking issues with Superior So Fine. I’ve checked the needle, looked for burrs, and retreaded. Still constant breakage. Changed spools as well. Any other advice?
  7. I’m having thread fraying and breaking issues with Superior So Fine. I’ve checked the needle, looked for burrs, and retreaded. Still constant breakage. Changed spools as well. Any other advice?
  8. When I purchased my Freedom I bought the bobbin camera TFT color monitor addition and use it regularly. BUT, now I'm thinking, after six years, what am I supposed to be seeing on the screen to show me perfect tension. I've looked for pictures but can't find any on the internet. Anyone with a camera - what do you see that makes you confident your tension is perfect?
  9. I charge .10/linear foot. The market in my area wouldn't tolerate anything higher.
  10. I rolled out the leaders to the bar and found that my machine had huge gobs of glue holding the leaders to the bar on one side, and none on the other, causing uneven rolling everytime of course. I removed all the glue, and some paint, reattached the leader squared with duct tape, and rerolled. I haven't had a problem since. Dawn says to give the canvas a good stretch one way and another after every quilt is removed. A habit I have now gotten into as well.
  11. I have two bobbin cases - one for the magnetic bobbins, and the other which always contains the spring for non magnetic bobbins. The Drop Test isn't the best system so if your prewound bobbins are always the same make, for example all Glide, then setting the tension once is all you need. So, load a test sandwich quilt, and work with the tension top and bottom til you get it right. Then don't touch that bobbin case again. Dropping bobbin cases is never recommended as that gimps them.
  12. As I stitch a large quilt using a pantograph, I notice that consistently the layers, even though I know I have them squared on the rollers, shift to the right when standing at the back of the machine. On each advance, I am starting at the right side of each pantograph row further into the right and ending on the left side before I've reached what was the original marked start. The quilt is pulling to the right each time I advance it even though I mounted it squarely. What am I doing incorrectly?
  13. As I stitch a large quilt using a pantograph, I notice that consistently the layers, even though I know I have them squared on the rollers, shift to the right when standing at the back of the machine. I consistently am starting the right side of each pantograph row further into the right and ending on the left side before I've reached what was the original marked start. The quilt is pulling to the right each time I advance it even though I mounted it squarely. What am I doing incorrectly?
  14. I regularly stitch over embroidery on quilts, BUT I use the filament threads. This thread does not impose on the embroidery or applique in any way, but gives a lofty continuity when doing an edge to edge. The filament thread is great to work with - an incredibly LOOSE tension is the secret.
  15. Crosshatching can be done on a 45 degree or any angle. I have made two large right triangles of fabric to match the angle I choose, sew one to the top left and one to the bottom right corner of the quilt top, creating a new rectangle, mounting the quilt so that I can use the lock on my machine to stitch a perfectly horizontal line across the quilt top but is in fact at 45 or 60 degrees. Then I remount it to stitch the other line in the crosshatching. It is fast and accurate, but takes time to set up. Once the set up is done the lines almost stitch themselves on their own. It works for me - but is a time consuming work of love.