DawnDiehl Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 I would like to start offering to sew on binding as a service to my clients but I don't know what or how to charge --- by the inch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stagecl Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Most LA'ers I know charge by the inch. I charged by the inch when I had customers. I don't like binding so I prefered not to do it for others. I find it takes me a long time because my stitches are close together. You know...I can't remember what I charged:P:P guess those senior moments creep in every now and then:D:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeoldeforest Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 I charge .14 per linear inch for a machine binding. If the quilt is 86 by 100, then this is how I would calculate the binding. 86 x 2 (2 sides) = 172 plus 100 x 2 (2 sides) = 200 -------------- Total linear inches 372 times Price/linear inch .14 ------------------------------------ Estimate $52.08 Round up or down and you may want to charge a few extra dollars for thread. I can usually do a machine binding in about 2 hours or so. (This is not hand binding to the back but machine binding front and back or just machine binding to the front and the customer can hand bind to the back.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Binding can be done while the quilt is loaded using the longarm--as long as you are confident that it is square. Start at the center top, pin across, and use the edge of the hopping foot as a guide to do a 1/4 inch line. Or use a ruler--go slowly in SR mode. Flip the corners up and down as you would on your DSM to miter them. For charity quilts and drag-around cuddlers, this is fine. I charge a flat $30 for this service--takes about half and hour so that is good money! I took a class last year and was shown how to do that invisible join for binding while the quilt was on the longarm--pretty slick! As for attaching binding using a DSM--I have an associate that charges lots less than I do. I refer my customers to her. She is a hand-quilter and appliquer and does a tiny invisible stitch on the back. She likes the money and my customers love her! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonbon Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Linda~ Is there somewhere I can find out how to do the method you learned in a class? I'd like to learn the trick of the invisible joining. Also, is there a trick to applying binding with the longarm to be sure it is being applied squarely? If I use the channel lock, would that work? I did a few quilts recently on quilts that quilted up beautifully because the piecer did a good job getting the top square. I'm planning on coming to your place in April for our Moxie gathering. I look forward to seeing everyone. Bonnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Hi Bonnie--can't wait to see you next month! I would not advise using the channel locks for the binding. If you engage the lock to run a horizontal line across the top edge you will see that the quilt will not be straight and square enough to use them for stitching. I am able to eyeball on one side for stitching the binding--I think the left side--but the other sides are stitched using a ruler. Go slow in SR and it works fairly well and fast! I will dig through my notes from Innovations last year and see if the instructor for the invisible join has a website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merryjo2003 Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 I've been putting on binding w/my longarm since I got it. It's easy. Nobody I knew used their longarm, so I had to teach myself. I do use channel locks (not always) for the horizontal seams. Use the middle of the binding and place that on the middle of the top of the quilt. Then I start on the upper right side, sew to the left, miter the corner and sew down. Then I go back to the upper right corner, miter the corner and sew down. Now you can advance, sew down, then switch to the other side, sew, advance, sew, advance. You can advance twice per side until you get to the bottom. I always leave about an 8 inch space unsewn where the ends will meet. I cut a 2.5 in over lap (for 2.5 in binding) and sew the final diagonal seam to close the binding with my DSM, then stitch that last 8 inches down. Done! I have different prices for binding depending on whether I have to make it, attach it, and hand sew it on the back. I use linear inches and my prices start at $.12/in. for just attaching a customer made binding, to $.35/in. for attaching to front then hand sewing to the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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