kimjohny Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 I am doing a panto and she's dragging in the middle of the frame. I do see that the rear wheels on the back rail are not centered with the rail. The rail is riding along the inner top of the wheels. The table seems to be somewhat lower on the front side of the table but I get most of the drag at the center tube that lays under the table top. I have no idea where to start making corrections. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbm Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Kim, check the measurements across the table at each crosstube - they should be the same. This is just in case your crosstube has loosened, making your table just a bit wider at that point. And your wheels shouldn't be centered on the rail: they should actually ride with the rail in the upper curve of the wheel, with just a small point of contact. You don't say how old your system is: wheel adjustments are limited on the newer setups. If your table is 12 foot or 14 foot, the truss under your rail may need adjusting to keep it from sagging (or crowning) in the middle of the table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimjohny Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi Barb, Thanks for your reply. I just got the chance to get back to Millie. I've tweaked the front cams just a tad and it helped a little but still dragging a bit. Why do i not notice this from the front of the machine when doing free motion? It also helped to move the frame to a different part of the wood floor. Is there a picture of the M&M Wheels sitting on the frame and also one of how far the trusses should be from the frame? Thanks again for your help. I'd be lost without this forum. Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Busy Quilting Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Kim, the distance the trusses will need to be from the frame will be dependent on how tight they need to be to keep the table level. Do you have a long spirit level, or a long piece of straight wood and a shorter spirit level. You need to put the spirit level along the length of the table and see whether you have a hump or a dip in the centre of your table. You can also check with the spirit level if the table is straight front to back in about four spots along the table. When you are working from the back of the machine you are more aware of the main weight of the machine being beside you if you push down on the handles or the table even. From the front you are working with the lighter end of the machine. The machine on the Bliss table do not feel like they have the same weight difference because the carriage rides on the table a different way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbm Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Kim, there's a post from 2008 that shows a wheel (not M&M) aligned properly in respect to the carriage/table rail. I'll try to extract the photo, but you can search the APQS Help forum for "Front Carriage Wheel" and go down to 2008 to find a post with that title. You just need a sliver of space between the rail and the upper curve of the wheel - that puts all the pressure on a single point, giving you the least amount of friction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimjohny Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Here is a photo of the back wheel, left side. As you can see the wheel is sitting on the rail and I have no idea as how to adjust this one. The front wheels are in the position just like the photo you posted Barb. Also, I do see that the Lexan Table top is raised on one side of the table top, center front. I'll check level tomorrow first chance i get. Thanks ladies for your help!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbm Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 The adjustment for that wheel is actually directly across the table from it, at the front of the table: the adjusting cam in the front carriage wheel will shorten the "wheel base" between those two wheels, lifting the back wheel from riding on the top edge of the rail. Loosen the gold bolt in the front wheel with a 7/16" wrench, and then turn the adjusting bolt with a 9/16" wrench until that wheel is riding a little higher - doesn't need to be much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DawnCavanaugh Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Kim, Everyone has provided excellent info so far. This document may also help: Wheel Table Adjust Info.pdf In addition, if you have black trusses on your table underneath each long aluminum rail, make sure they consistently provide the same thrust up on the rail. Have a helper stand at one end of your table, and then pull a sturdy string (plumb line) along the rail. Hold the line just along the outside lip of the rail. If the line is higher than your rail in the center, the truss bolt should be raised up to eliminate the rail sagging. If the rail is higher than the line, lower the truss bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimjohny Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 First chance to get back to my machine...got the back wheel raised as suggested in Barb's post. Need to wait for my better half to check the rail. Thanks so much for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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