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mamu

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Posts posted by mamu

  1. If you are talking about adjustment to the needle bar... I would test the needle bar for movement.  there should be absolutely NO movement in the needle bar.  If there is, then you probably need to replace the needle bar.  I had to do this with my ULT 2 that I purchased used.  Once I got that done, then timed the machine.  I haven't had any issues since.  

    You stated that you machine was not stitching...no stitches at all? or incorrect stitches with tension and/or timing issues? 

    I'm not totally sure of your question as to adjustment by screwing something related to the needle bar. ??  

  2. I am not aware of Wool Batting coming in White ... I would suggest taking a sample of your white fabric and putting it with the Natural color to see if it darkens the white.  That will tell you if you want to continue to use the Natural colored batting.  I have used Natural double bats with white and didn't feel like it darkened the white.  But, it all depends on the White fabric and how tightly woven it is. 

  3. I have an ULT11 and use it for business.  All of the suggestions that Nigel said are things that need to be checked right off.  I know that I had alot of issues with my machine when I first got it (third hand used) until I found out that the needle bar was moving ever so slightly.  Once I replaced that and secured it with absolutely no movement, all my problems stopped!  

    The thread that you use is important. My machine does not like certain brands of thread... so you will have to try a few to see what works best with your machine.  I find embroidery thread works very well...Omni, Glide, some Superior threads work well.   Also make sure you are using the correct size needle for the thread you are using.  

    I am assuming you got a manual with your machine.  Look at that and check all areas of thread path for any burrs.. you can do this by using a small piece of nylon and run it around those areas to see if it catches.  Sometimes the burr is so slight the naked eye can not detect it.  Also check your needle plate for burrs.  

    Make sure everything is nice and clean, oiled very well.  Including the tension wheel.  I actually had to replace mine.  All parts can be obtained through APQS.

  4. You need to contact APQS about a possible table that this machine can run on.  Also ask about a manual

    One thing I would look at is the needle bar (the bar coming down from the machine that holds the needle)..there shouldn't be any movement at all.  Sometimes these older machines can have a bar that has become loose just a bit and this will cause tension and stitch issues.  If the machine hasn't run for a while, a good cleaning is needed. I would take all plates off and really clean things out well.  Look at the bobbin casing, it will come out and probably everything there needs cleaned and oiled.  You will need to learn how to 'time' your machine, as I am sure the timing is off since it has been sitting for a while.  Timing instructions are in the manual but I also think APQS can help you with this.  Make sure the table is balanced well.  You may also need to look at the belts to the motor to make sure there is no wear on them and they are tight.

    You will not break this machine. It is an absolute work horse!  Once you get it set up, cleaned, oiled and familiarized yourself with the machine... you will be very happy with it.

  5. Linda give good advice on the options of winding your own bobbins vs the pre wound bobbins.  I exclusively use the pre wound as I found them to last longer than what I could wind myself. Also I get better stitch quality with the pre wounds.  The only time I have ever had a problem is when I use a heavy weight top thread and the thinner pre wounds don't play well together.    I typically do not match my thread colors, so this allows me more freedom too.

  6. I have had this problem happen and I have an older wooden table with my ULT11 machine.  The Lenni doesn't have a large throat area and so you will need to move your laser light when beginning a quilt to make up for the difference of this problem.  You might move it up .... you need to fiddle a bit to find the best spot when taking into consideration that your quilt is longer and you might possibly run into this problem when you get to the end of your quilt.   I have also had to move my laser light when running into this problem towards the end of my quilting... it is doable but takes alot of adjustments, checking and re checking where the pattern will be, not fun.  I mostly run into this type of problem when using a fleece or flannel backing that is bulky and take sup extra space.  So, I have to plan accordingly for that.  You stated you used a 10" pattern,  you should have been able to complete your quilting without this happening.. but with the Lenni's small throat space, you just might need to consider smaller patterns for longer quilts.  

  7. don't give your talents away... you can charge per inch or by the hour.  For a small baby quilt that is not custom, but more of a pantograph edge to edge design, I would charge one lump sum fee.  My minimum fee is $40 plus thread and batting.  I do not do custom work, only edge to edge designs mainly pantographs.  I charge by the inch for larger quilts... example   for a quilt that is 70x95 = 6,650x.01= $66.50

  8.   I also notice that occasionally I will see where there is some shifting even with basting both left/right sides with each advancement.  When quilting right to left consistently..the stitches and pull of the machine going over the quilt, will make the top shift ever so slightly.  To avoid this, quilt from both directions... right to left next row left to right.  Some panto patterns will make this difficult to do both directions.  I haven't found another way to do panto's to avoid the shifting.  

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