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Center a design with no center stitching?


RitaR

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EDITED SUPPER TIME, FRI. about sizes and aligning the QZ designs.

Nope, my last gear is I.. Far too big for what I'm trying to do.

The top row of numbers in the little info graph for each design is what tells us the size.. the bottom row of numbers is what holes we should use, one also says it's with or without the reducer ring.. and I'm crying and frogging... How in Heck do I get a row of designs that don't touch each other.. when there is no center point that is sewn.. I'm up, it's down it's over. ggggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrr Sob.. wipe nose on sleeve (snurkels..) and rip some more.. ripping on flannel is NOT fun, nor good for OLD eyes.

Upset, RitaR

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kristina -

i know that you are resloving this problem for rita privately, but may i ask what is the formula?

would you measure the finished desing, divide by 2 and center the next one at that point on the quilt.

just wondering cuz i really hate frogging and crying, and especially, i hate snot on my sleeve...

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I generally try to measure the area in which I want to add a spiro design...even if there is a seam in what appears to be the center.

Then look at the actual pattern size and determine if it will fit where you want it stitched.

If you are going to add several spiros next to each other...as in Rita's case...for a row of designs...I would simly measure the width across the quilt and find the center point both vertically and horizontally...then start the first spiro there. Make sense?

Then measure over the design size plus say an inch if you want to make certain the designs will not overlap when the second one is stitched. I would also try to make sure that whatever design you choose to stitch...will fit nicely across the row of the quilt. You do not want to end up with a partially stitched design!

It is simple math at that point. If your quilt is loaded properly and is square...you should not have to adjust the up/down point of the design...just the left/right to get to the next center point!

I hope this helps! :cool:

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Hi Kristina.. dang, wish I could explain better. the one I'm using or trying to use is the B 6-7", First pattern on the last full row.. like a flower without many petals. I want to use the one next to it, C3, 6.3 for another row thats a bit wider.

Anyway, the B 6 if obvously too wide for my 5.5 strip, so I used 1.5 instead of 2.5. That worked out real well. Moved the needle and spiro over to the next center.. The pattern stitches out at 5.5. so from center of one, with almost an inch between to the center of the other would be 6.5, right.???? Well, we didn't think we moved anything attached to the spiro, tightened the latch at the belly end, and started to stitch. Well it was about half an inch off.. first petal thank goodness. frogged.. talked to myself a bit and centered the area pretending it was a block, needle up.. got the spiro all set up, made sure the tray was moved over, closed the latch, tightened the arm nuts..made a dry run of a couple petals, all seemed fine, began sewing like in the first block, and I'm about 2 inches off and nearly done frogging.

I know it is just me, and something I'm doing wrong, or not doing.. but we just can't figure it out. Himself has a flower with 3 partial petals by forgetting to close the latch.. HE gets to frog that one, I can barely see the thread to do my own.

So, I'll try to call you tomorrow Kristina, but it will be after 6 p.m. east coast time. I think you are in Mt. time, or are you in central??? don't want to call during your supper, so please let me know when you usually put the pot on for all those little ones... How is Sven doing????

Oh Meg, so do I hate it, especially when I forget.. and rub it.. nm LOL

Many thanks for ALL the help, quilters... LOL, found out I couldn't cry and frog.. can't see, ROFLMHO

RitaR

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Hi Rita,

Sorry you're having some trouble with this. You can give us a call anytime and we'll try to help resolve it.

Here are a couple of quick observations. The spiro designs pages show what each design will look like, and how large it will be. You're correct that going from one square hole down to the next lower square hole will reduce the size of the pattern. Each step down results in a pattern that is 1/2" smaller. (for example, gear B in hole 2.5 gives a 6" pattern, and the same gear in hole 2 gives a 5 1/2" pattern). You can see a picture of that design if you flip back a page to the 5" to 6" patterns. (second row, third drawing).

As to why the designs are overlapping, remember that you have to remove the gear cartridge and recenter the QZ every time you move to the next design. If you're just going to the next center point 6 1/2" away without removing the gear and recentering, then the designs will be off center, and overlap each other.

If you really don't want to remove the gear and recenter from one design to the next, there is an advanced procedure for doing rows of spiros that's much faster, but fairly confusing. Please let us know if you want me to describe it.

Please give us a call if any of this doesn't make sense. Thanks,

Adam (515) 835-0354

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Hi Adam..

I didn't try to call thinking you were at the MQX.. and didn't want to add responding and dealing with a problemed Old Duck..

(LOL Joyce, Love it!)

Ok, you answered more than one question for me, Adam.... Yup, both or all 3 were me.. Though B 2.5 slipped down to B 1.5 is closer to the first or 6"one, than the one for the 5-6"pattern..

This makes me feel so good.. to know what I was doing wrong... now.. at least 2 of us are ready to print off the advanced instructions, so if you would want to take that time, I'm sure both of us will appreciate it muches. I hope it is step by step instructions. ;)

About done frog dancing and blubbering.. lol, so plan to go back in there tonight and set everything to rights, and go at it the way I should have.

Thanks for caring and the offer to let me call.. if it continues.. I will call. Tonight, I'll call Kristina and just have a good chat...

RitaR and Joyce..

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