Help - 3rd needle break on one quilt!

[Pat C]

I've had my Millie over 3 years now and never had a needle break until lately, and of course it's AFTER I've timed the machine after installing the new hopping foot.  I'm sure the timing has something to do with the breaks but I don't know what to check, other than re-time.

 

I've gone over and over the timing video and simply don't know what may need to be adjusted.  

 

One thing I did notice after timing the machine is that when I take the first needle-down-needle-up to bring up the bobbin thread the thread "catches". I have to rotate the fly-wheel slightly clockwise to release the thread.  Same thing happens when I have stopped stitching. Is this an indication of the needle being too far down??

 

The needle break happens at thick seams, but no thicker than I used to be able to go over.  Even going over them slowly can cause a needle break.  I've even been "hand-cranking" to test if the needle will glide thru easily before attempting to stitch thru.

 

I am using the same pack of needles as before so don't think it's a bad pack of needles (BTW, they are 4.0's).

 

It's normal cotton fabric top and bottom, 80/20 blend batting (Pellon Legacy).   So Fine on top, Bottom Line on bottom.

 

I had a needle break on a previous quilt also. The only difference was the batting was 100% Dream poly.

 

Any suggestions??  Could the hopping foot be too low?  I know the hopping foot isn't hitting the base plate (I used the "business card" rule) and it's parallel to the base plate, so it's not in there crooked. I'm afraid to keep quilting as this is a 102" square customer quilt that I'm only half-way thru.

 

Thanks for any advice!

[chickenscratch]

It sounds like the needle is too close to the bobbin hook assembly.  Loosen that little screw hook thingy and move it just a smidge.  Get a magnifying glass and look at the needle and see if it is just barely touching the hook assembly when you turn it by hand. If that doesn't work try adjusting the needle height bar.  There is a possibility something got out of whack on one of those needle breaks.

[Pat C]

Thanks Teresa.  If the needle is too close to the bobbin hook assembly doesn't that require loosening three screws? 

I did check the needle bar height and it appears to be OK compared to the video.

[iquiltit]

check the hook retaining finger it may be in too close

[chickenscratch]

Ditto, that's what I meant. I just couldn't explain it well enough.

[Pat C]

Thanks Teresa and iquiltit.  Good ideas.  I checked the hook retaining finger and it appears to be as it should according to the video.  I may try to adjust the deflection on the needle if I can without too much disassembly.  

I e-mailed Amy and Dawn first thing this morning and was hoping to hear something today.  

[Busy Quilting]

Pat check to make sure the needle bar is straight, not slightly turned. Easiest way is to look at the needle bar screw from the side and is it centred in the needle bar or slighlty twisted.

[Pat C]

Thank you Lyn - I haven't checked that.  I will do that this morning!

[jimerickson]

Pat: If you haven't already solved your problem, here's my take on it.  It sounds like your machine is out of time, or the needle bar height is incorrect.  Since you had the needle bar off for the hopping foot switch, that would be my guess.

 

I had a similar problem breaking needles after I changed my bobbin system from L to M.  I miscalculated the proper needle bar height, and when i sewed rapidly and there was any needle deflection, the needle would hit the hook assembly and break.  Chageing the bar height solved the problem.  If your needle bar height is correct (I don't know why APQS doesn't provide an needle bar height gauge like Gammill does) the fact that you have to rotate the hand wheel to pick up the thread means the needle and hook are not at the proper positions when the single stitch cycle is completed.  Review all the details of the timing instructions to make sure everything is exactly as it is supposed to be.  Good luck.  Jim