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Upper Tension Dial


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i Sylvia, I believe I was told it could be done at home, just to be careful to get everying right and in the right place turned right and in order.. as you said, loosey-goosey

I wonder if there is a way we can adjust the top tensioner so its not so loose all the time??

I Think I'll call amy or someone, about it on Tues. Too extra busy on Mon.

RitaR

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Sylvia: If the big machines are like the Ult2, there is a set screw that holds the assembly in place. The screw might be loose and that's why you think it's the assembly needs replacement. The screw is a socket screw (AKA allen head) that sits in a hole on the back side of the sewing head. Tighten it up, and see if that takes care of the problem. Take the screw all the way out, and the tension assembly comes out. I decided the assembly on Zelda was set too deep causing the take-up spring to rub on the head, so I loosened it, slid the assembly out far enough to eliminate the rub. Now everything is fine. The way I came to realize that it was too far in is that the spring was marking the paint. Good luck. Jim

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Oh, thanks to you all!!!! My tension dial is firmly seated in the machine. But.... the spring that pushes against the turn-dial has lost its sprong! (this is not the U-spring that holds the thread) it is the spring that wraps around itself and pushes against the turn-knob. Therefore when I turn it to the right, it really doesn't seem I have done anything. Lenni's tension dial was tight (new spring I guess) but I could "feel" the tension dial. I know this makes no sense but there is a big difference in the two. Everything seems to be working except that spring no longer springs. My tension is harder to get correct on the Freedom.

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Sylvia

My Ultimate 1 is like that, the spring has collapsed a bit. On the millie the perfect tension is with knob about flush with the post and on my U1 I need to tighten the knob in a good 3 turns. If it really bugs you, you can take the spring out and stretch it a bit or order a new one from APQS. Shouldn't be to expensive as the whole assembly is only about $15.

Nigel

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Sylvia,

I'd have you check two things. First, completely remove the knob that you turn to adjust the tension. When you look at the back side of the knob, you'll see ridges or "teeth" that should be rubbing against the flat washer seated between the knob and the spring you're mentioning. If by chance that washer has ended up "backwards" (in other words, it also has little ridges that should be rubbing against the back of the knob to keep the knob still and pressure consistent) then it won't keep the knob in position firmly and your tension can change. If you discover that's the problem, just turn the washer over and then re-install the knob.

However, if that washer's "ridges" have been rubbing on the back of the knob correctly, then go ahead and remove the knob, washer and the spring. (the spring looks like a funnel.) Go head and pull the spring apart firmly, so that it puts more pressure on the disks when it's reassembled. Put the spring back on (fat side toward the tension disks), then the washer (with its ridges facing out toward the knob) and then finally the knob again.

If you don't notice a difference, then give us a call. Replacing the tension assembly is not hard if we need to go that route, but usually simply pulling that spring apart does the trick! :)

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