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Jamie Wallen's bobbin tension method is not for me...


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I've read everything I can find about adjusting thread tension, watched Jamie Wallen's video, endless links, blogs, forums, and still my Mille, "Lula" was not giving me consistent quality stitches.  She would go along for a row or two, then give me railroad tracks for 6 or 7 inches, then back to perfect tension again.

 

I tried everything, changed needles, re-threaded, changed bobbin case, watched Jamie's video again & again, fiddled with different bobbins etc.  I was discussing this issue with a fellow Millie owner who said she was having similar issues until she mentioned the tension problem to her boss who has been LAing for a gazillion years on an old Nolting machine.  She said her boss asked to see the bobbin case and immediately tightened the tension.  The tension was adjusted using the 2" drop method and my friend's Millie has been joyously stitching perfectly since then.

 

I took my bobbin to said boss who tightened up my tension and I swear I saw 'Lula' smile when I put the bobbin case in and started quilting.  She has never run a more beautiful stitch.  Yesterday I loaded a customer top with W&N batting and a corduroy backer.  I'll admit using corduroy worried me a bit but with a minor top tension adjustment, Lula was off and running perfectly.

 

Jamie's method might work for many of you but don't be afraid to tighten the bobbin tension if things just aren't looking perfect -- just my 2 cents worth.

 

Mary

 

 

 

 

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His tension method doesn't work for me either, but I used it as a starting point, and have done it as a starting point on several other brands also. I have only found one machine so far that liked it. But that is my personal opinion. I think some of it is the way the top thread is threaded. The way I do it must add tension, because his way won't work on my machine without using any tension on the tension disks. I think every machine has there sweet spot, but it gives you a starting point.

Shirley

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I agree that you must determine your very own special tension adjustments that your machine likes and that the thread you use works well under. I change my tension "numbers" all the time depending on which thread I might be using. The only constant in my adjustments is that the pull (force) on the top thread must equal the pull (force) on the bobbin thread. Makes sense, doesn't it?  :P

 

 Your machine is trying to make a twist of two threads that lands between two pieces of fabric right in the middle of the batting. Balanced tension does that. So what one person finds a balance for might be looser than what you find acceptable. And different machines work well with looser or tighter tension. It's only when the two forces are balanced that you get pretty stitches. Trial and error, constant note-taking of thread combos for good tension, and a willingness to experiment to find your best "numbers" will give you consistent good stitches.

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Thanks for all your comments.  Linda as always your advice is priceless.  I'm pretty much new to all this LA stuff but eager to learn.  Also happy to say I'm currently working on my 6th client quilt and have only had to frog once because of poor tension -- that's good for me!

 

So much to learn & having way too much fun learning!

Mary

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Gals, I too do the 2" spider thing that Bob Purcell recommends. Saying THAT....note..I HAVE A BOBBIN CASE FOR EVERY TYPE OF THREAD!  Therefore, I do NOT need to adjust my tension for that thread hardly ever! Now..keep in mind, after ALOT of use with that bobbin...I mean ALOT, you may have to just tighten 1/8" or 1/16" on that case just to tweak it back into it's PERFECT condition.

I put each bobbin case in a VERY small plastic bag, and write on the bag with black permenant marker :  So Fine, Rainbows, Glide, ETC....and I hang each little bag on the inside of my storage cabinet on a little hook.

 

The only adjustment I do, is top tension, and that's SO EASY!

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I use Jamie Wallens methods all the time, and I believe it's guessing, or assuming, the bobbin tension is close to accurate.  I've changed one bobbin from SewFine/Masterpiece to King tut, with just minor adjustments.  

 

Perhaps it's in what we consider tighten, (a bobbin case only needs the tiniest of tweeks to make a difference) or loosen or just right.. I use to be a strong-arm.  I'm finding out the gentler touch does just as well in most cases, thus what I now consider a snug bobbin thread isn't what I used to call it.

 

As many say, to each the technique that works the best.   I'm just gad y'all are able to eliminate or go for tools techniques etc. that suit you and your machine the best..

 

Rita

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