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Top thread breaking


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I've had that happen and found that ususally one of these 3 thrings fix it (afterI've tried adjusting top tension) - 1) Change the needle - make sure it is inserted all the way up; 2) Clean (with WD40) the bobbin area and oil; and 3) change the bobbin thread - I have problems using a cotton thread in the bobbin.

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I have just started with my Millie and i use so fine also. The things already mentioned did help but did not stop it completely. This a.m. before work i adjusted my side needle guide with a tiny washer just enough to keep it from running against the machine head prior to last guide. I will let you know if that changes anything tomorrow after trying it out.

Lord's peace to all my quilting sisters!

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Last night I was just about in tears. I changed the needle, cleaned the machine, adjusted the tension. Now it is even worse. The machine stitches along and then skips BIG areas so I have stitching and then a long long stitch then picks up again and a long long long stitch. I don't know what to do. I have an ULT II and have never had this problem. I have not done anything different. I use machine only for a hobby and the last quilt I took off was fine now a couple of months later start to use and this is happening. Of course this quilt is for my bosses daughters wedding gift!! If this was my quilt probably wouldn't have happened, you know how that goes. Any help would be appreciated. I am wondering if it is the bobbin thread not being wound properly. I have tried several different bobbins but my winder does not look like it is winding real smooth. Someone said the put a cotton ball in the hook area to help the thread run smooth but that is just picking up pieces of cotton from the cotton ball and attaching to the thread which is not good. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Ok first breath, have a good cry and get it out of your system, have some chocolate and maybe a glass of wine. OK ready lets figure it out. Do you have a SR or Intellestitch? If you are running in manual mode instead of the cotton just put a piece of poly batting. Your description of the skipped stitches and long stitches tells me that it has to be either the needle, timing, hook (maybe a burr) or the tension spring. Have you inspected all of those? I would call Amy and ask her to help you diagnose the problem if you check all of that. Hang in there.

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Shawn so sorry for your frustration. When my top thread breaks it is usally for 2 reasons. Needle and bobbin.

So if you changed the needle, try the bobbin again.

Take a buisiness cared and clean out under the spring in your bobbin case. Even the tinyest smidgen of lint will cause me stitch problems so there is where I go first. Second examine your hook assembly, perhaps there is a smidgen of lint or even a thread stuck in there.

If all is as it should be, perhaps use a prewpound bobbin if you have. I use a drop test for my bobbin tension. I put my bobbin in the casing and jerk it gently. If it drops into my palm about 2 inches, that is perfect. I rarely adjust my bobbin tension, I always tweak the top. Remember, the top tension when you stand in front of it "right is tight and left is looser"

Also, if your top thread shows on the bottom, tighten the top tension, is your bottom thread shows on top, loosen the top.

Finally.....did you insert the needle properly? Is the hump on the front? I know, but that can cause the problem of breaking and skipping and general misery and we can all make this simple mistake.

If everything is as it should be.....Call Amy or Christy. They are awesome!

Good luck.

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Thanks to all who feel my pain. I am at work right now and when I get home I will try recleaning. No stitch regulator just the old ULT II. I have double checked the needle and it is on properly. If I can't get it to work I will try Calling Amy or Christy. I will also try a piece of batting over the hook on the bobbin winder to see if I can get a smoother wound bobbin. I don't see any top threads showing on bottom or bottom thread showing on top. I do not have any prewound bobbins to try, I have never used them. I will keep trying and appreciate everyones advise. As a hobby quilter I am not all that knowledgeable about all the ins and outs of the machines. Usually I have no problems... I guess I have been lucky up until now.

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Hi Shawn,

I would try another new needle, you can get a bent needle right out of the package. Have you tried another cone of thread? Sometimes the threads can go bad for no reason, it is easy to want to rip the machine apart and we forget about the thread. Also what about the batting? Is it the same kind you always use or something different? Or the backing...just trying to look at some of the easy scenarios. And yes, call in and speak to Amy or Christy about it as they can give you some ideas as well! :)

Good luck!

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I don't have an Ult II but a Millie and had top thread breaking. I discovered the thread was catching on a screw along the thread path so I put a piece of painters tape over it to stop the breakage. I'm using King Tut right now and it was breaking so I put Sewers Aid on it and that helped. Just two more thoughts for you, and I hope you get the problem resolved. I know how frustrating and discouraging thread problems can be. Good luck! Let us know how you resolve this.

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You shouldn't need to put painter's tape around a screw - sounds like something may be wrong with your thread path. Check your manual and make sure it's threaded correctly.

When I get good stitches, with a few random bad ones, invariably the thread has come out from the elbow right after the check spring. Make sure the thread is going through the pig tails.

Also check your pig tails for burrs, especially if you use a lot of monofilament thread. Also check for a burr in your needleplate cover, and bobbin case.

Good luck!

Julia

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Thanks, Julia, but I know it was the screw because the thread was caught on it, and it happened more than once. I know the machine is threaded properly, and it is only 5 months old. I've never used monofilament thread, and the only breakage that I've had in the upper thread since putting the painters tape on the screw is when I've had the tension too tight. You have listed some good things to check when problems occur. Thanks!

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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all of your help. You guys really saved me. I was at the end of my rope. I am not sure what exactly was causing the problem. I changed the needle twice, cleaned and dusted everything, I put batting on the bar of my bobbin winder and loosened the tension disks. Now my machine is not skipping any stitches. I have a suspicion it was the bobbins not being wound properly. I have had problems in the past with the bobbing winder winding the bobbins kind of wonky. Is there a better bobbin winder out there besides the one I got with my machine? Thanks again.

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I love my turbo winder, also. The first time I used it the bobbins were a mess. Then I put a thread net over the cone of thread and always use one now and have always had perfectly wound bobbins. The key was the thread net. I've wound bobbins from spools of thread, using a net, and have perfect results also from the spools.

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Well I spoke to soon ...got home from work today...wound another bobbin and stitches are skipping again. I don't know what to do ....Can anyone give me advise on the bobbin winder. Mine is from APQS how tight should the discs be. I see a screw to make adjustments but have no clue what to do. Today I just cried. It helped a little but...

I have never had this problem before. Does anyone think that the humidity could be a factor? It is really damp and humid here today. I know I am just grasping for an answer but any help would be appreciated.

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Have you watched this video from Linda Taylor on adjusting your bobbin winder? She shows exactly how to use the bobbin winders, and how to adjust them. Many of us on another list were doing it all wrong and weren't aware of it. Once corrected, our stitches improved dramatically, including broken ones! I hope it helps you...it sure helped me :)

http://www.thequiltingschool.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=201:bobbinwinder&catid=905:gqs&Itemid=85

Debbie in Austin

P.S. Edited to comment that I just had this same problem. Mine turned out to be my bobbin tension was way too tight. I thought it was fine as the stitches looked good and it was in my TOWA range. But still, the top was breaking. I knew I had a good wind, but once I loosened the bobbin tension twice, then adjusted my top each time again, I finally got it to sew well without breaking. An uncommon problem for sure. HTH :)

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Shawn - Since you asked...

There was a poll done on another LA list and the Handiquilter Bobbin Winder won hands down. They said it was stable, wound really well, came with the accessories needed (something to adjust speed-don't remember what now, etc.) and was less than 100.00. I have a very old one, not one of the new ones, and was surprised to see it listed. Mine has been perfect. The comments listed from those who have the new ones say there have been absolutely no problems, easy to adjust and keep adjusted, give a great wind, and they just simply work well, continuously.

Just FYI.

Debbie in Austin

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Debbie In Austin

Thank you thank you.... I am at work and my computer has no sound card so I will go home and watch the video on bobbin winders. This looks exactly like what I need. I will also check out the handiquilter bobbin winder. Thanks again.

Do you know where I can find the handiquilter bobbin winder for sale and more information on the product?

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Shawn,

I don't think skipped stitches are typically caused by bobbin inconsistency. When the machine skips stitches, it means that the needle and hook aren't meeting properly. The hook is passing behind the needle but not catching the thread loop created in the needle's scarf.

The first thing to check when that happens is the needle...but you've already "been there, done that." :) (Double check that the needle is an MR 4.0)

Next, remove the needle plate and peer into the hook area. Take the bobbin case out, and take out the thread from the needle. Rotate your fly wheel by hand (up on the left, down on the right) and watch the point of the hook as it comes around from the right side of the bobbin area. (It helps to have really good light and a magnifying glass.)

As the needle comes up when you rotate, the sharp point of the hook should pass just below the "midpoint" of the scarf (indentation) on the back of the needle. The other important part of the equation is how close the hook is to the needle. You should see NO gap between the needle and the hook. In fact, they should really "kiss" each other. ANY air space means the hook won't catch the top thread and take it around the bobbin to form a stitch.

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If you see a gap, the machine needs to be adjusted (timed). It's not a hard thing, just a little time-consuming. We have a PDF we can send you with instructions to help out with that. Let us know how it goes.

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