Stitching Left to Right Issues

[KarenH]

I always have some type of issue stitching from right to left, I am working on my borders, doing piano keys and the thread keeping tangling when I go left to right. 

No problems of course right to left, but when I change directions to go left, sometimes the thread seems to tangle around the hopping foot.

I have tried at times to turn the needle slightly to the left but that does not always work.

Has this happened to anyone else? This is so frustrating, and I just want to get it done!

I have searched the forum for ideas, but I didn't come up with too much help.

 

 

 

Update:

I was able to finish the quilt.

When the thread would tangle going right to left, I was going pretty slow. When I went back down sunday morning, to work on the borders I put in a new bobbin (filtec magna classic), checked my tension and went a little faster, and I only had one or two tangles for the rest of the quilt.

Yes, Judy your picture is exactly what was happening!

Jim, I have thought of re-timing the machine, but I really don't have any other issues with the stitches. I am going to try and keep notes on when it happens and what threads I am using. I usually use Filtec bobbins, and So Fine thread or Glide and never have any issues with those combinations.

Thanks for all of your input, sometimes I think you have to walk away and take a break!

[judyday]

Yes this happens to me occasionally. I have not been able to find the cure yet. Does yours look like this?

[apylinski]

Mine has been doing the same thing. Will be watching to find out a solution from all you experts.

[jimerickson]

Karen:  Check your timing, especially the needle bar adjustment.  If the thread loop is small, the creation of stitches is compromised when the sewing direction isn't optimal.  If the needle doesn't go down far enough the loop is small.  Similarly, if the hook to needle relationship is correct it's more likely that stitches will be missed.  You might also try tightening your tension, that should firm up the stitch creation.  Good luck.  Jim 

[Cagey]

I would suggest loading a practice sandwich, and then I would repeatedly make long "left to right" movements locking the fore/aft locks on longarm machines and trying your best to only move your hands left to right on George.

 

While doing that I would try it both in stitch regulated (N/A George-though could set max stitch speed and floor board the peddle) and non-stitch regulated modes.  All the while altering the stitching speed and length.  Write down in your notebook and on the sandwich the stitch length and speed.  Record how your stitches look, and take pictures.  You will not remember the results a week from now much less a year from now when the problems raises its ugly head again.  You will essentially be conducting a science experiment, and analyzing your data afterwards.

 

I believe you will find that you are moving the machine head (George-your hands) to fast in relation to the fabric and deflecting the needle altering your stitch quality.  Please read the below highlights. 

 

Cagey

 

 

From APQS web site under resources.  Remember the directions on George need to be moved 90 degrees because how the machine is mounted and how you sit.  

 

It would be nice if APQS would update the posting to include the directions with George, though that might only cause more confusion.  Maybe they should provide an updated sheet in the George manual.  Think about it APQS staff readers.

 

 

SPECIAL NOTE: Tension issues are rarely fixed by re-timing the machine. Re-timing is the solution when your machine is skipping stitches in the manual sewing mode, or when you have broken or jammed a needle and have affected the relationship between the needle and hook. Thread breakage can be caused by imbalanced tension, but breakage can also be caused by poor quality or damaged thread, as well as burrs on the hook assembly from needle breaks.

Direction the machine is moving

The machine's hook rotates in one direction only, even though the machine can be maneuvered in any direction. Therefore, in some instances the machine is actually stitching "backward", almost like holding the reverse button on a traditional sewing machine. 

 

For example, if you stand on the free hand or needle side of the machine and quilt a straight line to your left, the tension will not be quite as perfect as if you moved to your right. That direction is like sewing "in reverse mode". It causes your needle to meet the hook a bit too soon, so the stitch formation changes slightly. When you move the machine right to left (when viewed from the needle side) or left to right (when viewed from the pantograph side) you may notice more "railroad tracks" as a tension problem. Since this phenomenon is caused by needle flex, you can improve the stitch quality by using the correct size needle, slowing down, loosening your fabric, increasing your stitches per inch, and tightening the top tension while also loosening the bobbin tension.

 

We recommend that you generally move from left to right on the free hand side of the machine, and from right to left on the pantograph side. (Yes, this means that even though your pantograph pattern may have two rows of the pattern printed on the paper, you should complete the first row, tie off, and return to the far right side of the table to complete the second row for the best all-around stitch quality.)

 

For the entire read.     http://www.apqs.com/adjust-tension

[KarenH]

Thanks Cagey for the article,  I will keep it with my notes. 

I updated my original post, that the quilt is done, and on to the next one!