Cagey

APQS is updating their hopping foot shaft, so that in the future only one screw will be required to change feet. I know this, as I have been delaying updating my fixed George hopping foot bar for this reason. At the beginning of the year, APQS said they would have the new bar and feet out by the third quarter of 2019. Unfortunately this time frame has come and gone. The APQS store is not giving an updated time frame at this point. This is reflected on the store link by specifying (Legacy) prior to 2019 on the kits. Unless things change soon, the note will have to be updated to read "prior to 2020"

https://shop.apqs.com/products/product-2779-02-interchangeable-foot-kit-stand-up-machines.asp Those should work.

You cannot delete the post, but you can go to the first posting you made and then "edit" it. Put sold in the title should help the best, as many readers will not read every post to see that the item was sold. If you leave the price, it helps future sellers know what the going rates.

JZB, I have used the pre-wound bobbins, with great success. Just as I have had great results with my own wound bobbins. Brand/type, I believe is purely a personal opinion. As you have a L size bobbin, you can inexpensively pick up extra bobbin cases so you can have them set for different bobbin and threads. I would suggest you look into getting a TOWA gauge, or learn how to properly set the bobbin tension by feel.

You can call APQS, to get an expert answer. That being said, as the house/quilting room will get hot slowly, you Millie should not sweat as if you took it from a cold room to a damp hot outside area. I would just cover the table and the head with a sheet to keep the construction dust off of it. Every once in a while, check to make sure it is not wet from a roof leak or other new problem. Best of luck to you with your remodel.

Clover or Collins water soluble markers https://quiltersapothecary.com/collections/all/marking-tools They have some spray/applicators to help remove the marking. Blue seems to work well.

APQS website pricing: L Bobbin Case - $11.95 M Bobbin Case - $54.00 L Bobbin - $00.90 M Bobbin - $ 3.00

Vibration is normally more of an issue with incandescent bulbs, as they have filaments that glow to produce the light. This is why in the garage, you purchase tough bulbs that have stronger filaments in hand held lights. With fluorescent bulbs, electric passing through a mercury vapor which generates the light as it bounces against the phosphor powder coating on the inside of the bulb. Fluorescent bulbs are designed to be turned on and to stay on for longer lengths than incandescent bulbs. Being turned on and off repeatedly shortens their lifespan. If the problem is only one fixture, then the probable culprit may be a bad ballast(s) which is what generates the power for the fluorescent bulb to operate. Here is a link on how to change the ballasts in a 4 bulb fixture, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTTbFUQlqxw. If you have four bulbs in your fixture, and it is the same two bulbs burning out, it may direct you to the bad ballast, as a ballast normally only powers two bulbs. Though there are ballasts that power four bulbs. Check the price of a new fixture verses the price of the ballast(s), as it may be less expensive to replace the entire fixture than repairing the old one. Here is a link showing how to install a new light fixture. Since you are replacing a fixture, you may not need to use the toggle bolts in the video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uZfsMNdymw Ballasts pricing https://www.homedepot.com/s/fluorescent%20ballast?NCNI-5 Fixture pricing https://www.homedepot.com/s/fluorescent%20light%20fixture?NCNI-5

With monopoly, I follow the guidance of self winding the bobbin at a slower speed. Maybe the bobbin thread is being stretch at different points, so the bobbin is unwinding at an inconsistent rate, causing you bottom tension issues. Maybe trying that when you wind your King Tut bobbins. As you have a Turbowinder, you may have to wind those bobbins on your DSM. Let us know what you find. Best of luck.

MB_quilt Newbie Member 1 8 posts Report post Posted April 22, 2018 The machine is now Sold. Thank you to all who enquired.

Jim, Thank you for the clarification. I normally buy my Hobbs wool in the half roll, folded up in a large bag since I use a George. There is usually a show in the area that sells it in that manner. Cagey

Jim, Just to clarify, when we speak of Hobbs Legacy wool, are actually speaking about Hobbs Heirloom and Tuscany 100% wool? http://www.hobbsbatting.com/products/ Heirloom and Tuscany are the same product, they simply differ in the packaging. Tuscany is treated a little better, and packaged in set sized bags. Cagey

You might check with your local hardware store, sheet metal or metal fabricator, to see if they have some small steel or stainless steel rod that will fit both your design boards and your machine head stylus holder. Once you have the proper sized rod, they can bend it to match the stylus you have. Necessity is the mother of invention.

Nancy, The seller last visited April 2018. Suggest you email her at, rskohl88@gmail.com , to see if it is still for sale. Best of luck.

This works with curling amish feathers, and should hopefully help you out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVoLlHGk1hI&list=RDQM0MI3sqDDRp0&start_radio=1