Cagey

Just to help you out. Posted April 29 No, it is sold and I can’t seem to figure out how to get it removed from here, my apologies

Maybe these will help. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/40960-batting-poking-through-on-back/ https://forum.apqs.com/topic/21254-what-exactly-causes-batting-pokies/

Cindy G, and Nyon, It sold 9/16/17 in the post. Best of luck finding a machine.

First, it is helpful if you can show pictures for both the top and bottom of the exact same quilting area if you have tension issues. I am guessing the pictures are both top, as they are pieced. Could be wrong. In you second picture, you have two large gap skipped areas that appears to me to be over thicker seam area. It looks like they are in areas of a long run that you might have been moving faster, which might have caused the skipped stitches. In the corner of the blue fabric, I would say the stitches are better because you were moving the machine slower over the start/stop for the point you quilted. When Sue suggested a larger needle, I would have done it in small increments... 3.5 to a 4.0 and then a 4.5. Here is Superiors thread reference guide. It is for their specific threads, but a 40 wt thread should be in the ballpark of what you need. https://storage.googleapis.com/vw-superiorthreads/docs/longarm-machine-thread-reference-guide.pdf 14 = 3.0, 16 = 3.5 18 =4.0 , 19 =4.5, 21 = 5.0 Superior says use an 18 or 4.0 needle for 40 wt. polyester thread. Here are some links for APQS that may help you too. https://www.apqs.com/a-guide-to-needles-for-longarm-quilting-machines/ https://www.apqs.com/what-threads-can-i-use-with-my-apqs-machine/

A price, when purchased, why being sold, accessories, and where it is located may assist with you sale. Best of luck to you.

Are you sure you have the needle in the proper direction? Most Domestic Sewing Machines (DSM) use a needle that has a flat side on the shaft that faces the rear of the machine. If you put the needle in backwards, when you tighten the retaining screw it may not hold the needle securely. Refer to your DSM manual. If you do not have the manual, the long grove should face where the thread comes down and goes through the "eye" of the needle. http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Anatomy-of-Sewinmg-Machine-Needle.jpg Hopefully this works to fix your situation.

Ok, as it is the backing, then the bobbin tension is winning. Thus you have to tighten the top tension or loosen the bottom tension. A technique I have learned is to write your name in cursive in the overage areas of the quilt sandwich to check your tension settings. You normally have to change directions when you write your name, and you have already learned the muscle memory to write it well.

If the picture you provided is the top of the quilt sandwich, then the top tension is winning the battle with the bottom tension. That means you need to loosen the top tension to allow the bobbin thread to pull the top thread to the center of the quilt sandwich. Conversely, you can tighten the bobbin tension to help adjust your overall tension. I suggest calling APQS in the morning, so they can listen to you quilt and you can describe your problem. They can advise you to skip some of the thread path holes to loosen your top tension if the disk tensioner is real loose at this time. Best of luck to you.

APQS is updating their hopping foot shaft, so that in the future only one screw will be required to change feet. I know this, as I have been delaying updating my fixed George hopping foot bar for this reason. At the beginning of the year, APQS said they would have the new bar and feet out by the third quarter of 2019. Unfortunately this time frame has come and gone. The APQS store is not giving an updated time frame at this point. This is reflected on the store link by specifying (Legacy) prior to 2019 on the kits. Unless things change soon, the note will have to be updated to read "prior to 2020"

https://shop.apqs.com/products/product-2779-02-interchangeable-foot-kit-stand-up-machines.asp Those should work.

You cannot delete the post, but you can go to the first posting you made and then "edit" it. Put sold in the title should help the best, as many readers will not read every post to see that the item was sold. If you leave the price, it helps future sellers know what the going rates.

JZB, I have used the pre-wound bobbins, with great success. Just as I have had great results with my own wound bobbins. Brand/type, I believe is purely a personal opinion. As you have a L size bobbin, you can inexpensively pick up extra bobbin cases so you can have them set for different bobbin and threads. I would suggest you look into getting a TOWA gauge, or learn how to properly set the bobbin tension by feel.

You can call APQS, to get an expert answer. That being said, as the house/quilting room will get hot slowly, you Millie should not sweat as if you took it from a cold room to a damp hot outside area. I would just cover the table and the head with a sheet to keep the construction dust off of it. Every once in a while, check to make sure it is not wet from a roof leak or other new problem. Best of luck to you with your remodel.

Clover or Collins water soluble markers https://quiltersapothecary.com/collections/all/marking-tools They have some spray/applicators to help remove the marking. Blue seems to work well.

APQS website pricing: L Bobbin Case - $11.95 M Bobbin Case - $54.00 L Bobbin - $00.90 M Bobbin - $ 3.00