Cagey

Gerald, You do understand the post if over 10 years old. Plus, Matt; the individual you quoted, has not visited the forum since 2016. If you hover over the poster's name you can see when they last visited the site. If you do an internet search for "anti-fatigue floor mats" you will find a number of possible solutions. Best of luck shopping. Cagey

SOLD Just helping you out for the future.

Jan, It would not stay on the car long if you walked away as nice as it looks. It would be on someon else's bed or couch in a nano-second. It is a wonderful quilt. Outstanding job, thank you for sharing. It would be an interesting NASCAR paint job if APQS ever sponsored a car for a race. Cagey

I would take a single layer of high loft batting, and lay it under the gnome. Then I would use your DSM with invisible thread stitch around the outline and internal lines of the gnome. Once your done, cut away the extra batting to get a trapunto look when you place the top layer of the quilt on your sandwich. It will make you gnome pop out of the quilt top. I would then SID each block of the quilt, making sure to do the internal lines on the one 5 batch block you have. Then may be a snow flack or star design in the other blocks. The more quilting you do in the blocks, the more the gnome will stand up out of the quilt top. It is all up to the look you want. Let us see your completed project. It looks great so far. Best of luck with finishing it. Cagey

Try an internet search for recovering data from an SD card. Search using with and without a password. You will probably find most of the information is for phone SD cards. You might also try using the computer you used to put the data on the SD card to see if it can open the stored data. Then save it without a password or with a password you will remember. There are free trial versions of data recover programs you will find. Be sure to only download from a trusted site. Best of luck recovering your data. Cagey

Does your electrical outlet still powered? Plug a night light that you know operates to ensure the outlet is powered. If not check your circuit breaker and or a ground fault outlet. If using an extension cord our multiple outlet, be sure the devices circuit breaker has not popped. Hopefully it will be an easy fix. Cagey

Casual Qulter, This video should help. Though it does not specifically state that you need to have twice that number to include the bobbin thread. See the discussion tab/section above the video. https://www.nationalquilterscircle.com/video/how-much-thread-015609/# Superior shows their SuperBoBs 60wt have about 118 yards for a L sized bobbin, and 215 yards for a M sized bobbin. Superior also has a chart you can print out for you to reference. https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/estimating-thread-use If you wind your own bobbins, you will not be able to wind your bobbins as tight as pre-wounds. I would guess you would have about 10-15% less thread for the same sized bobbin. Hopefully this will help you. Best of luck with your project. Cagey

Your test sample has to be the same materials as the actual sandwich. If not, you are not adjusting your tension for the actual environment you will encounter. That is why it is a good idea to leave extra material on the borders so you can test your tension there. Then move into the center of the quilt when your ready. If on the real quilt sandwich the bobbin thread is winning the tension war, then you need to loosen your bottom tension or tighten your top tension. As I think the bobbin thread may be too tight from your post, try this link first; https://www.apqs.com/what-causes-railroad-tracks/ Here are a few other links explaining tension on APQS. https://www.apqs.com/tension-troubles-on-your-quilting-machine-try-these-tricks/ https://www.apqs.com/tips-for-tension/ https://www.apqs.com/can-properly-adjust-tension/ Best of luck to you. Cagey

Being a sit-down quilter, I would suggest placing your DSM (Domestic Sewing Machine) sewing table in a lefthand corner, so the quilt cannot fall off the back of the table, or off the left side of the table. After that, fluff the quilt up so that your hand quilt area can be restriction free moved around under your hopping foot. ________________Wall_________________________________ I DSM table I quilter I Place ironing board here if you need support on your left side. Butt it up to your sewing table. If the quilt sandwich falls off the table, it will jerk your quilt. It could break a needle. If you are trying to pull it up over the back or sides, it will make it difficult to smoothly move the area you can actually quilt around under the hopping foot. You truly can only quit about an 8-inch area between your hands when you free motion quilt on a DSM. This area is the area that needs to be area that is fluffed up so you can easily and without restriction move the quilt around under the hopping foot. The faster you move your hands, the faster you need to have the needle move up and down to keep consistent stitch spacing. If you slow your hands down, you need to slow your needle down. Always stop your needle in the down position when you reposition your hands. Never play chicken with a stabilizing needle. It will win. Keep the hopping foot about an inch away from any needle. Quilting near where the binding will go, make sure the backing fabric does not get flipped under the quilt so you quilting it so the backside of the fabric is visible. It no fun unsewing that kind of mistake. You thought your frontside looked so good until you looked at the back. You at least will have a nice set of needle holes to follow on the frontside during your next quilting session. A good video for DSM free motion quilting is Fluff and Stuff Machine Quilting by Paula Reid. You can find her videos at local quilt shops or on her webpage http://www.battsintheattic.com Here is a YouTube video from Patsy Thompson; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DmW-1L9Ua0 She shows you how to break the quilt down into quarters so the least amount of quilt is under the DSM throat at a time. I have found clips that hold the quilt from the ceiling or up off the table are not needed. Some quilters may say it is the only way to quilt. Start small quilting some local quilt guild charity quilts, and learn what works best for you. Start cheap, and use rubber coated garden gloves. You can cut out the pointer finger and thumb tips to easily pull up your thread, and thread your needle. If you like gloves, try some actual quilting gloves. Don't like gloves, try the batt scoots from Paula Reid. There are other versions out there you can find. Some swear by quilting rings. Every quilter is going to have an opinion what is best. You have to try to find what works for you. Have fun, and do not be your worst critic. Your quilting looks fine. The more you free motion quilt, the better you will become. The happier you will be with your work. Best of luck to you. Cagey

I might suggest getting out the manual, and ensuring you have properly attached all motor connectors in their proper position. If two motors are close, could you have got the wires crossed? You could also disconnect every connection, then spray them with contact cleaner https://www.crcindustries.com/products/qd-174-electronic-cleaner-11-wt-oz-05103.html Then reconnect all the connections. There could be a bit of corrosion/dirt between the connections that is interfering with the flow of electricity. Also, push in on the wires at the back connectors to be certain you did not catch them on something while being moved. The connector could be firmly seated, but if the wire is loose on the connector power will not flow properly. I will hope this simply solution resolves your problem. If not, I guess you will have to wait until Monday for some expert solution. I will keep my fingers crossed that you can get your Lenni up and running today. Best of luck. Cagey

These posts may help you. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/37371-towa-setting-and-thread-path-for-thread-brandtype/?/topic/37371-towa-setting-and-thread-path-for-thread-brandtype/?hl=%2Btowa%2B%2Bnumbers#entry510651

https://www.apqs.com/bobbin-case-care-and-tension-adjustment/ https://www.apqs.com/how-to-adjust-top-tension-on-apqs-quilting-machines/ https://www.apqs.com/tension-troubles-on-your-quilting-machine-try-these-tricks/ https://www.apqs.com/quilting-the-quilt-stop-stressing-over-tension/

JD, You might try only running the thread through two verses three of the thread guide holes prior to the tension unit. Here are a few links to APQS discussions on tension that may help you; https://www.apqs.com/can-properly-adjust-tension/ https://www.apqs.com/quilting-the-quilt-stop-stressing-over-tension/ https://www.apqs.com/step-by-step-process-for-thread-breakage-problems/ Best of luck to you getting it adjusted. Cagey

I would not worry about purchasing a used Mille with all the bells and whistles. While the lifetime warranty is outstanding, the machines are built to support that warranty. That is to say, they are quality machines. They are designed to run for hours day after day, month after month, and year after year with minimal maintenance. If they were not, you would not see Ultimate I's coming up for sale. If you had to replace the motor on a Millie, it costs $300. A crydom relay costs $118. Laser module $90. A hook assembly is $215. I would ask Angela, and APQS tech support how often they have seen these higher priced items replaced. The side mount vertical cone holder you desire on your Millie costs $90; https://shop.apqs.com/products/product-4036-01-vertical-cone-holder-by-hartley-mfg.asp You will not get digital tension setting on an APQS machine. That being said, after a few times of using your Millie, you will be more than able to manually set your tension. If you normally use the same sized thread, I would hazard to guess you will only have to make minor adjustments to your top tension. A TOWA gauge can help you set your bottom tension. While my DSM has digital tension, I cannot say setting tension on my George is any more difficult. I quarter turn left or right, check the tension, and adjust again. Not that different than increasing the tension by 0.1 or 0.2 on my DSM. Millie will give you a 26-inch throat verses the 20-inch throat you presently have. Millie weighs 46 pounds, while I could not find what your Amara weighs. If you can find a used Millie that fits your budget, I would not be scared of purchasing it. They money you save verses purchasing new, will more than likely offset any warranty savings you would expect in the future. My used George was about half price of new. I purchased a few wear parts, which so far I have not used. I did spend about $600 upgrading the fixed hopping foot to the new interchangeable feet. Other than needles, George has run rock solid. Hopefully some used APQS buyers can share their experiences. With their inputs, you should be able to make a more informed decision as how to proceed. Best of luck. Cagey

Does this indicate that you pulled out the brushes, and then blew out the residual dust? If not, I would suggest doing this. https://www.apqs.com/motor-brush-maintenance-video/ APQS tech support is also a good idea if it does not correct the issue. Best of luck. Cagey

This is from APQS. https://www.apqs.com/flat-quilts-can-still-get-wavy-borders/ If you do an internet search for wavy borders, many point to quilting density being the issue. Juanita Yeager uses 35/65 wool felt in a light color as her bottom batting layer. It makes the quilt stiff, and lays flat. Not something you would want to cuddle up with on the couch though. Not something one could use to fix this issue, but something to try on your next wall hanging. Best of luck coming up with a solution. Cagey

Tri-Flow appears to be motorcycle chain oil. I for one would not use it on my George. It might work, but why take the risk? Plus, I do not believe it would be an easy lubricant to get our of fabric.

Then it would appear the needle up/down needs to be adjusted. I believe this video should help you , https://www.apqs.com/needle-adjustment-led-light-machines-video/ If after watching the video you still have questions, I suggest calling APQS to have all your questions answered. Best of luck.

To trouble shoot, I would test the up/down button on the other set of handles. If the rear up/down button only has the needle do a single movement, then it could be the front switch. Once you have more trouble shooting information, I would give APQS a call. They can direct you to a quick solution. 1-800-426-7233 Best of luck. Cagey

change Text size to 72, and type SOLD. I do not believe you can delete the thread. I for one believe it is helpful to be able to see what previously sold machines asked sales price. It helps both sellers and buyers know somewhat of the going rate. SOLD

I installed a non-APQS LED/black light unit on my George, and have been happy with it. Works great. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/35098-led-light-systems-for-apqs-longarms/?tab=comments#comment-488007

BJ, If you want your post to come back to the top, just post a "bump" message in the original post. If you want to change the price, you can do the same. Though instead of bumping your post to the top, post the new price. Not sure what the "little black tag" is, but you can change the font size to make your update price more noticeable. Best of luck with your sale. Cagey

Jim, You explanation on the tension magnification makes perfect sense. Thank you for sharing. Cagey

Cheeky, Turning your needle could not cause any harm. Are your flat lines when you quilt from the bottom left of the picture to the top right? If so, could it be that you are placing slightly different pressure on your ruler/ruler base that could be causing the needle to be pulled slightly away from the hook? Nigel had suggested in an earlier post to this same type of question to set up a camera to capture your thread path and quilt sandwich to help find the cause of your tension issue. This too would not hurt to help find a solution. As the tension is fairly constant the entire line stitch, once you find the problem it should be fairly easy to correct. Cagey

Call EQ, they can tell you what printers place ink on fabric like commercial manufacturers. When I called them years ago, they asked for my printer name and model number, and told me how it would work. You could also call your local supply store, and see what printer they use to print copies. Get the make and model, and then ask EQ if theirs or your printer would dye the fabric best. You might spend an extra dollar or two on having it printed at Staples, for example, but you are putting in the time to make a quilt, so use the best printer available. Let us know what you find. Best of luck with printing your fabric. Cagey