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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. Liberty machine

    Vicky: I don't own a Liberty, I have an Ult 2, but I think everyone here who does own a Liberty is pretty happy with it. I think the Liberty was the top of the "little" machine (20 inch) line. I certainly am happy with my "little" Ult 2. Jim
  2. R & S Design Boards

    Sometime back I had Ron (I think that's his name) make me a custom border pattern with paper dolls on it. Nice work ,prompt service, and really reasonable price. I like Mercedes, am very pleased with their service. Jim
  3. Hi-Tech Inbonded Quilting thread

    The cones are smaller than I'd like, but will work and probably suit a lot of hobby quilters more than the larger ones I like. The weight of the thread you're proposing better suits our usage. As far as pricing goes, I really have no idea what your production cost might be. All I can say is that I use YLI Longarm Professional most of the time, and buy it for about $8 a 3000 yd cone. There would have to be something really special about your thread to get me to pay significantly more than that, so for the 600 m cone you intend to offer, a price of $3 or less would seem competitive.
  4. Redhot: King Tut probably works a bit better on machines with rotary tension systems like Linda's friend with the Gammill, than on disk tension systems like APQS, but it's still a challenge. I've never used it, because early on I decided that lint was a longarmer's enemy, and cotton thread produces a lot of lint. As you can see from the comments here, a lot of us find that the challenges of using KT out weighs any benefit. It's also pretty expensive. My advise, give up on it, or resign yourself to a lot of fiddling in order to use it. Jim
  5. Freddie or Lucy? Which one is the best & why?

    I use my channel locks all the time. I use the horizontal to baste down the top when mounting the quilt. I SID with them both if the piecing is really square. Sometimes I will cross hatch with them. I use the vertical down the side of the top to keep the quilt square. I also use the vertical to maintain the machine position as I roll the quilt, and I use both for piano keys. Like Connie, if I have a vertical or horizontal line I want straight, I use one of the locks. I really wouldn't be without them. As some of you already know, they were important enough that I went to the trouble of fabricating a set for Zelda, my Ult 2.
  6. Redhot: The "finger" is the bobbin basket retaining bracket. It's located directly below the needle plate. It's held in place by a Phillips head screw. The bracket ("finger") has a slot in it so it can be moved toward the hook or away from the hook by loosening the screw and sliding it in it's race. After your re-position it, just tighten it down again. Jim
  7. Freddie or Lucy? Which one is the best & why?

    Sandra: I'm with Cagey on this. A used Millie is what I'd look for. You mention channel lock being of little interest to you. Until you use electronic channel locks, you don't know how handy they are. Manuals are a pain, but electronics.... I love mine. Wouldn't be without them. Unfortunately they only come on the Millie. Give it some thought. As far as the table goes, I would not be happy with the cheap one. Too little possibility for adjustment to suit me. The Millie solves that too. Regards. Jim
  8. Hi-Tech Inbonded Quilting thread

    I Like 3000 yd cones myself but smaller ones might appeal to other quilters. I don't doubt that your thread is strong, but a lot of quilters like the thread to show, and thin thread doesn't "display" all that well. As for invisible thread goes, I've found that Superior's Bottom Line taupe color is almost invisible. That's what I was talking about. Colors that disappear into the background. Jim
  9. Tips For New Long Arm Owner?

    Pati: You can relax. APQS customer support is great. They'll help you with anything that might come up. The machines themselves are quite simple and easy to service yourself. Before you get involved with buying all sorts of gadgets, your probably should get used to the machine. Then you'll have a better idea of what you need to change, and what's OK for you. I am with qltnbe on the extended base however, you'll want one to do ruler work. Exactly which one to get will require a little research. Good luck. Jim
  10. Hi-Tech Inbonded Quilting thread

    Colors? I'd be interested in black, off white, taupe, bright red, forest green, maybe white white, medium brown, medium blue, bright yellow, a tan or bisque, orange, purple, and shades of these colors. TEX 15 if a pretty fine thread. It's well suited for use as a bobbin thread. Maybe not so much as a top thread. Do you have any color that could be considered invisible? I personally would be interested in that since most "invisible" threads we use are somewhat delicate. Thanks. Jim
  11. Hi-Tech Inbonded Quilting thread

    Newbie: I clicked on your Amazon reference, and saw that what was offered there was traditional spools. Do you offer your thread on cones? Most of our machines were designed to take thread off cones, and while a lot of us can use spools, I personally wouldn't be interested unless it's available on cones. Thanks for letting us know about your product. BTW, how many colors do you offer? Regards. Jim
  12. Bobbin thingy

    It's called an anti-backlash or "no backlash" spring. A lot of tension issues come from misbehaving anti-backlash (often referred to as simply "backlash") springs. When you shop bobbin cases, you will often see the bobbin case offered as "no backlash" which means there is an anti-backlash in it. It took me a while to realize that "no backlash" meant that there was a spring in the bobbin case, not that there wasn't one LOL. Jim
  13. 2004 Millenium with 12' bed for sale

    Bunny: Not my machine, but I note one question you had was not answered. As a 2007 machine, only L bobbin size was available, so I'd guess that's what it's fitted with. Jim
  14. Just find a good welding shop, take the rollers and the table rails in, and ask them to shorten each piece exactly 24 inches. Good luck. Jim
  15. Vertical Drag on Millennium

    Kathy: Check the adjustment of your machine wheels. When they get out of adjustment the machine doesn't move so smoothly. Good luck. Jim
  16. There are a lot of systems on the market. Some are only made for specific machines. On the low end (about $4000), is the limited function Q-Bot system. Although it won't do some of the things more expensive systems do, I have several friends with Q-Bots that seem to be quite happy with how they work. On the high end the Intelliquilter ($12000-$15000) seems to be the best of the full function systems. You'll need to decide what you want out of a computer system, study the capabilities of each, and then find out whether they offer kits that fit your machine. One issue that you much consider is product support. No system is better than it's support. You'll have to do some research to educate yourself on that. Hope this helps a bit. This will be a big investment, so I think you'd be wise to choose your final machine before you buy, or at least be assured that any system you buy can be fitted to, and will be compatible with the machine you hope to end up with. Jim
  17. Check Spring Not Moving

    Melissa: Your check spring apparently isn't broken. It might not be as strong as needed, but you can adjust it's tension. If you find that it still doesn't take up the thread the way it needs to be, remove the assembly and tighten the spring tension. To do that you need to loosen the set screw on the assembly itself (not the screw that holds it in the sewing head) and rotate the assembly against the spring (clockwise), and then re-tighten the the screw. Now put the assembly back in the machine. I've done this on my machines on several occasions as the tension has either slipped, or the spring weakened. Jim
  18. Batting tape

    Betsy: I don't know about tape and sides, but here's what I do. I just lay pieces of batting together and quilt them down inside the quilt. I don't tape or sew the batting pieces together at all. I haven't had any problems with the batting pulling apart or any kind of quilt failure. The batting pretty much sticks to the quilt fabrics so it isn't difficult to properly place it in the quilt. Of course the quilting stitches it in place. Just another thought about using batting pieces. Jim
  19. Check Spring Not Moving

  20. Check Spring Not Moving

    Melissa: If you haven't solved this issue yet, my guess is that the check spring is either broken, or out of place (more likely broken). Remove the tension assembly (there's a set screw at the back of the sewing head that holds the entire assembly in place) and examine it. There is a small "tail" at the inside end of the take up spring. It should rest in a slot in the body of the tension assembly. I think it's broken off, or out of place. If so buy yourself a new one, take the assembly apart replace the spring, and reassemble. You can adjust the strength of the spring by turning it before you clamp it down. Good luck. Jim
  21. I have both an APQS Ult 2, and a Gammill Classic machine that are Intellistitch equipped. Part of Intellistitch's system is a baste feature. You can select either a 1/2 inch or 1 inch setting so when you move the machine a stitch is fired at the appropriate interval. When I used this feature I would get exactly the problem results mentioned here. Birds nests every once in a while. It was discouraging enough that I didn't use the feature often. In the regular stitches per inch mode, if I used the 6 per inch setting I would also occasionally have that problem. I thought on this long and hard, and eventually it came to me: stitch length affects tension. The longer the stitch, the looser a given tension setting would produce, the shorter, the tighter. To solve the problem, all I had to do was increase the tension when I basted. Now I do exactly that. After I complete the baste, I loosen the tension to sew at 10 or 12 stitches per inch I usually quilt at. Because of this experience, I'm pretty sure the problem you're having is a tension issue. I think tightening the tension will solve it. Good luck. Jim
  22. Trimming Question

    Cagey: I've both sewn down the outer edge, and left it unsewn. I pretty much leave it unsewn now. The problem I've encountered sewing it down is that as I quilt, the top seems to get bigger. I've speculated that this is because the piecing is not pressed tight to the seams, and as you quilt that extra fabric migrates to the pieces and makes them bigger than they first appeared to be. At any rate as I approach the sewn line at the edge I end up with a "wave" of extra fabric. In order to avoid the puckers associated with this technique, I have to cut out the edge stitching anyway. So now I avoid this by just not bothering to sew the edge down until the quilting is done. Since you're only dealing with a six inch border, that I assume isn't pieced, theoretically there isn't any extra fabric hiding in the seams to move out, so you'd be OK doing this. Now my entire experience is limited to frame mounted machines, so I don't have any experienced with cabinet mounted ones, and that sewing down the edge might not result in the same problem. Just my thoughts. My experience with trimming is that many quilt judges will knock off for not filling the binding with batting. They look down their noses at unfilled or quilt top filled, binding. BTW, I like Linda, never trim a quilt for a customer. I'll cut excess batting away, leaving a generous allowance for finishing. Jim
  23. Connie: Increase your top tension, til the bobbin thread shows on the top, then loosen it til you get a balanced stitch. I think that will eliminate the "birds nests". Jim
  24. Bobbin

    If it's the needle, you turn it around. but I think your asking about the needle bar adjustment. Get out your manual and look at the pictures of the hook timing. See if the needle eye is in the proper position at bottom dead center. If not, take the side opposite the tension assembly off your machine head, find the needle bar clamp, loosen it, move the needle bar so that the eye of the needle is in the proper position, then tighten the needle bar clamp. If the eye of the needle is in the proper position at bottom dead center, the needle bar adjustment isn't the problem, and you should look elsewhere. Good luck. Jim
  25. It sounds like the rotation stop position needs to be adjusted. It either under or over rotates when you stop. Sorry, I don't know what machine you have or how to adjust your machine. Jim