Gail O

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Everything posted by Gail O

  1. Check for any burrs in the hole of your needle plate or on any of your thread guides. Just run a small piece of pantyhose along your thread path and see if it catches anywhere. What type of thread are you using? Cotton thread doesn't always play well with fleece. Also make sure that your quilt is not stretched too tight on the frame.
  2. I use Quickbooks Pro - desktop version. It's a download version (as opposed to the on-line/cloud) that costs approx $280. I update to the newest version every two or three years. You can track your inventory, but have to set it up and input all the details. The work to initially set up inventory, suppliers, fees etc. is a bit onerous; but once it's done, works like a charm. I'm not sure what additional capabilities the monthly fee version gives you. I previously had MQMB, but my accountant hated it.
  3. Absolutely gorgeous! Love the sheep.
  4. I wouldn't advise washing a top only, unless you plan to do it by hand. Even then, the chances of some pieces fraying enough to make the seams unstable is pretty good.
  5. Check that your left/right encoder wheel is making contact. The manual will tell you which one is for front/back and/or left/right.
  6. I think all machines come with a foot suitable for ruler work - at least 1/4 inch tall, so that a ruler can rest against the foot. The older machines (mine is a 2009) have a foot that is not a true 1/4 inch all the way around. The back of the foot has a weld that makes that measurement greater than 1/4 inch from the needle. The newer model machines have the ability to change feet.
  7. There is one listed for sale in Ottawa; Mara Z, Dec 11
  8. Check the APQS store; the various feet are listed there under optional access.
  9. That is sort of dependent on what year your machine is. The foot that all machines come with is a "ruler foot", but the older models don't have a true 1/4 inch foot. There is a weld at the back of the foot which makes the distance from the needle to the back of the foot more than 1/4 inch away. If your machine is a newer model the feet are able to be changed. If you have an older model and you want a true 1/4 foot, you can purchase a kit with a new shaft and foot.
  10. The quilter probably floats the tops, and the markers are used to keep the a piecing lines straight. There are various methods of doing this. Below is a commercial version of the same thing.
  11. The more dense the quilting, the flatter and stiffer the quilt. But that is also subject to the kind of batting used. Cotton batting will be much flatter than wool or poly; one batt will be flatter than a combination of two batts. Just make sure you have enough throat space to comfortably stitch a bigger panto, and that the enlarged panto will still secure the quilt.
  12. Good looking and useful . . . . clamp supports and DH.
  13. I noticed on another thread that you were asking about a quilt that was quilted by Kaye. You could trying contacting her and see if she can get you any info on the pattern. Kaye has a blog that has her contact info http://borderlinequilter.blogspot.ca/
  14. Do you know who the pattern designer is? Have you tried contacting them directly?
  15. Whatever marker you choose may become embedded in cotton quilting thread. A soft toothbrush and a spritz of water will remove most. This is usually not a problem with polyester threads.
  16. Are you quilting in the same direction with every pass? This might be causing your quilt top to shift slightly. Pin or stitch basting would help; or changing direction with every pass.
  17. Some people are just not "quilt worthy".
  18. Love it! Awesome quilting; fits the quilt perfectly.
  19. Can you raise the quilt top bar so that the ruler base doesn't knock into it. If that isn't to your liking, you will have to replace the braking system if you remove it.
  20. It might be easier if you loaded so that the waves/wavy lines will be going across the quilt and not top to bottom. The middle pic, make the left corner the top left when you load. If you plan an rolling back and forth, you need to pin baste (pins no more than a hand width apart) or sew baste the whole thing. After you have basted the whole thing, you can SID the narrow border as you advance; start in the middle at the top and go left or right and down as far as your work space will allow. If it makes things easier, trim your batting, leaving at least 4 inches extra on all sides. You got this.