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Everything posted by Zora

  1. We are mostly longarm quilters so we don't baste the quilt off the frame. If you are using a domestic machine, or a sit down machine such as George, your basting method is what worked for me. Truthfully, if I had known that longarm quilters would baste my quilt when I was doing them on the domestic..I would have taken it to one.
  2. Sounds like that would be a viable solution...more dense quilting. Also heavier thread like Omni.
  3. I think that is entirely possible, especially if the quilt has no batting and is being sat on while on a surface that has some "give" to it, like a mattress, couch or chair.
  4. That is the most excellent suggestion ever.
  5. So sorry about this. It has to be terrible. Hope you feel better soon.
  6. Where are you located? I know of a machine for sale in the Kansas City area.
  7. I am 5'3", own a Millenium..no Bliss..but with Quilt Glide. I do heirloom quilting with tons of stitch in the ditch. I manage my Millie just fine. In fact I just tried out Bliss and am on the fence about it since it seems to "slop around" too much for me. I can do the majority of my SID without a ruler because Millie tracks perfectly side to side and front to back, no ruler necessary. The machine does not seem heavy to me. It's on wheels, after all..and moves with two fingers. But you should try them all. In 8 years, not a single issue that I couldn't easily adjust myself.
  8. I got sets of zippers from Linda V. Taylor and canvas from Walmart. Cheaper than Quick Zip System. You can also find the zippers elsewhere on the internet. The canvas does need to be surged, though, so keep that in mind if making your own. I can't remember what comes with Quick Zip system..other than the zippers being labeled. I found instructions on the internet on how to make them. I like my zipper system.
  9. That bar is on that machine for a reason. In our longarm group we have floaters and pinners. Floaters had more problems keeping the quilt square than pinners. The only ones I float are small quilts or ones that are horribly out of square to begin with. Curing all piecing problems is not my job. However, many new quilters have floated tops and come to the bottom of the quilt and realized they have a pronounced frown to the bottom border..or they have 4 inches of extra border fabric to ease in. It is not a technique for the inexperienced in my opinion. Yes, floaters "can" keep the quilt square. You need to ask yourself if you are experienced enough with "how" to keep it square during floating. My position was the few minutes I save by not pinning is not worth the extra work required for a float. But whatever works for you.
  10. The backing fabric will not be "dirty" and neither will the batting. As you quilt the quilt itself will be on the inside of the roll on the take up roller, and if you put it on the quilt roller, it will be rolled up on itself and very little will come in contact with the canvas on your machine. Unless it us covered in cat pee or pet hair..how bad can it possibly be??
  11. I don't know. Maybe it is just me and my resistance to change, but I find the new format very annoying. I just clicked on a topic and now I can't get back to it because it's been "read." Participation on this forum is dwindling. It's sad. This used to be such a great resource. Now it's barely worth the time.
  12. When I was quilting for others I did not charge by the hour. I charged by the square inch, between a penny and 5 cents an inch depending on level of quilting. I kept track of the time spent on each quilt and aimed at making $20 per hour on average. That gave me a good indication of what to include in each level of quilting so that I could average my $20 goal. SID was always between 3.5 and 5 cents depending on how complex the piecing was. I could discuss the level of quilting with the customer and give a quote based on square inches and level of quilting. It doesn't happen ivernight. You have to develop it over time with experience.
  13. My theory on this is.. I am the quilter. My job is to quilt the 3 layers together. The piecer is responsible for providing me with a reasonably square quilt top which I will keep square as I quilt. If it's seriously out of square when I get it, it will be seriously out of square when they get it back. A piecer whose standards are that low does not deserve me agonizing over their problems. I would put it on the frame..probably float it..and quilt away. And no, not every problem is apparent until you get it loaded.
  14. I agree with Lisa , but your customer must be willing to pay for SID. Don't start giving away your work. The customers will be happy to take advantage of you . .forever!
  15. I don't personally like different sizes of crosshatching in one quilt, and I really don't like different sizes in areas that touch each other. I would choose another fill for those areas adjoining areas.
  16. I never turn off my Millie light, and I find the black light to be hugely distracting for some reason. I have changed my studio lights to LED and for whatever reason, I don't have trouble seeing on either white or black fabric. Still need a side light for very busy prints sometimes.
  17. Too funny. Sometimes I feel that way about my online fabric purchases, but he never says anything!
  18. You will get more responses if you post this in one of the other forums. This one is primarily for help with machine problems. I hate this type of quilt. I would break up that border. Divide it into sections. Given your skill level, 3 sections per border. Because the borders are not even, go from one edge of the top border to the other.,same on the bottom border dividing it up as you choose...for example, a 6 inch strip along the outer edge a 4 inch section in the middle a 5 inch nearest the panel. But realize I have no idea the actual size of the border. Piano keys in the section closest to the edge. A fill..such as a very small meander in the middle section, and more piano keys in the section closest to the panel. Then do each side the same..butting your designs against the already quilted top and bottom. This fabric is going to show everything so I would not practice anything beyond your skills on this one.
  19. Continuous curves in the star points. An echoed curve around the center block. .like a double continuous curve. Straight lines coming out of the v shaped background between the star points. A fill of your choice in the corner squares. If you don't want to do ruler work for the straight lines, you can get a similar look with L type loops.
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