Ultimate 1 upgrades?

[quilter46]

I would like some input from Ultimate I owners. I have a used Ultimate I, and it is pretty old (97 or 98 I think). I am either going to have to get a different machine or make some changes to this one. It is so large, that my back hurts. The single stitch button is in the middle of the machine head, so I have to reach for it a lot. I have been having movement problems, thought it was the wheels. but it turns out that the top of the table is coming unglued in spots and lifting high enough that the bottom of the carriage (also old style) is rubbing on it. I have tried to reglue it down with no success. I was also wondering about adding a stitch regulator. Have any of you done this and do you like it. Also my Ultimate 1 runs on after I hit the stop button when I am going at any speed over 4 or 5. I like to quilt at a 7 or 8 most of the time, so I have to plan where I want to stop to take into account the run on stitches. This is very frustrating! So please give me some of your opinions. I would appreciate them very much as it will help me make a decision. What I love about my machine is the beautiful stitch it makes.

[DawnCavanaugh]

Hi Patty,

I have an Ultimate I like you. Here are some things you can do to improve how it works for you:

[*] You can get longer bolts for each of the carriage wheels at a well-stocked hardware store, plus washers to use as "spacers". I raised my machine's carriage up about 1/4" so that it would roll over things like scissors and bobbins, and in your case, the table top.

You can also peel the table top off completely and replace it with a table top from APQS.

[*] the single stitch feature can be adjusted so that the needle positioner stops the needle. After your machine's been running a while (warmed up), remove the top cover and look for the little "blue building" on the circuit board with a small gold screw facing out the SIDE of the building, toward the side of your machine where the tension disks are (we try to label it #8). Turn the gold screw clockwise to slow the positioner down until it takes only one stitch. (If you take off the cover and don't see it, send me an email and I'll send you a file with photographs to help you.)

Occasionally the run on stitches can be caused by another issue, but we'll start with the needle positioner and see how it goes.

As for adding a regulator to your Ultimate I, I'm afraid it isn't possible through APQS. The electronics and circuitry are not correct to accommodate our stitch regulator. While there are other "after market" stitch regulators out there which you can add to an Ultimate I, the fact that you like the stitch quality would be one main reason to stay with the APQS brand and trade in your head for a regulated machine.

In addition, if your back is hurting, you have several options. First, check the wheels again to make sure they move freely. You shouldn't have to muscle the machine around. I can also send you information on properly adjusting them. Also make sure the table is the right height for you. If you stand on the freehand side of the machine, your belly button should be at about the same height as the backing roller. You should not feel the need to slouch to see the needle or quilting area.

If you still feel the machine is too large for you, then consider the Lenni machine from APQS--it has a 20-inch throat compared to yours at 26 inches, but does have a stitch regulator. We are happy to answer any questions you have!

[Liam]

Patty I have an older Ultimate 1 and I just love it. I have a add on stitch regulator, Intellistitch and it works great! It runs around $3,000.00 to have it installed. One of the nice things with Intellistitch is that your single stitch button is on both front and back left handles. You also have front and back controls for stitches per inch with the needle up/down all within hands reach (no reaching up or across your machine). They even added a electric laser light to the machine. I also have edge rider wheels on my machine and carriage, which helps the machine move much easier. I can actually quilt with one finger on the handle. I purchased a couple add ons from APQS: ergo front handles w/new light and micro handles.

The problem with your table top coming apart from the seam is a easy fix: get yourself a piece of 2" x 4" or even a 2" x 2" the width of the underside of your table between the two side boards and attach it to both side boards, you may have to get two pieces depending on where your table top seam is (center brace). Then just nail your table top down to the piece of wood. If you have any other questions feel free to email me or post a thread and someone will help you out.

[smorris]

Hi Patty

Just to add to what has already been suggested. If you have the old brown wheels, change over to the black ones with softmounts from APQS or put on edgeriders, anyway you will feel a huge difference.

Also check that your table is perfectly level.

You can also upgrade the handles to the newer style and this should help reduce any discomfort.

Could you develop a stick for turning on and off the one stitch button? If not, I think I am right in saying you can send your head back to the factory for a service and they can reposition the needle positioner closer to the front of the machine.

Best wishes

Sue

[quilter46]

Thank you gals so much for all your input and help! I have put my Edgerider wheels back on with Dawn's suggestion to use longer bolts, and it did raise my carriage enough that it is not scraping on the table anymore. I am giving serious thought to having the Intellistitch put on. That would certainly be cheaper than buying a new machine. Thank you again for all your help!

[Matt Sparrow]

bump

[juden99]

Hello to all - I usually lurk - but I wanted to make sure I was understanding Dawn's advice about the needle positioner. I, too, have an Ultimate I. I have the single stitch button. Can you actually adjust the needle positioner so that the machine stops stitching when you hit the stop button? I just assumed that being a mechanical, non-stitch regulated machine meant there would always be stitches after you hit the stop button. I'm a self-taught newbie/novice with a really handy hubby. I purchased the machine used about 2 1/2 years ago. I've only done pantographs on any "real quilts". I've played from the front but I only quilt for myself or my bee when we are doing charity quilts.

Thanks so much in advance!

Judy in Marietta, GA

[mark]

Hi Judy,

When you hit the stop button, your machine will "coast" to a stop. The motors on the U-I do that rather than just come to an abrupt stop. If you hit your one stitch and it wants to take more than one stitch, there is an adjustment for that on the circuit board and that is what Dawn was referring to. Hope that makes sense!

[juden99]

That was what I thought, but I just wanted to make sure. My single stitch does exactly what it is suppose to do.

Thanks,

Judy

[quilter46]

I just wanted to take a minute and thank you all for your help. Dawn, I did as you suggested and raised my carriage. That has made a wonderful difference. Right now I have Edgerider wheels on my machine carriage and the old brown wheels on the table carriage. I seem to be at a comfortable place with this combination. I wonder why APQS couldn't come up with a fix for the running on of stitching when you push the button to turn off stitching? A new motor or something?

Anyway, thanks again everyone! Dawn, you are the best!!

[DawnCavanaugh]

Patty,

I'm so glad you're getting good results! Nothing is better than getting a "sweet ride" with your quilting machine.

Having had my Ultimate I for so many years, I understand your desire to stop the run-on stitches as the machine "coasts" to a stop. APQS did fix that issue when they created the stitch-regulated machines. However, I rather like my coasting...it's how I have locked my stitches for years. I simply anticipate my stopping point, turn off the sewing button (right handle button) about 1/4 inch from where I really want to end, then "coast" up to the stopping point while moving the machine slowly.

This puts teeny, tiny stitches inside that 1/4 inch, locking the threads in place. As an added bonus, if you linger at your stopping point just a second or so, and allow the final stitches to fall right on top of each other (right into the same hole), you'll make a small knot on the back of the quilt with those stitches. Push the machine away slightly to grab the top thread, then gently tug the top thread, popping that knot to the quilt's surface.

Cut the thread BELOW the knot (your teeny, tiny stitches locked the thread, not the knot) and you'll have also trimmed your bobbin thread right next to the quilt! No thread tails or knots on the back.

It takes practice, but soon you'll learn to coast to that stop, linger in the same stitching hole for 3-5 stitches at the end, and then "pop the knot" in a matter of seconds!