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I quilt on a George but a friend bastes larger quilts for me on her stand-up longarm. We use Superior's water soluble thread VANISH on the top & in the bobbin. If I'm going to wash the quilt later, this thread means I don't need to remove the basting as I'm quilting which makes for a much more stable sandwich clear though to the end of the quilting process. She sets her stitch regulator for a 1/2 inch stitch and bastes in a square grid about every 4 inches. Hope that helps, Nancy

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I charge a half-cent a square inch--that seems to be the industry average.

I use the longarm with the SR set at the longest stitch and travel over the quilt in an over-up-over-down line to make a "castle top" half-grid in one pass. Then I start the next line on the same side and repeat, almost catching each corner as I stitch. Stitch in the same direction so all pushing of fabric evens out. Don't cross the corners. This gives a grid which can be stitched without any long verticals, few stops and starts, and no turning of the quilt. The grid is about 4" or the standard "fist width" that is recommended.

A customer who quilts in the hoop recommended to me after one basting job to not cross the corners of the grid. This allowed her to adjust the fabric as she went.

Another basting design is the standard meander. Again, a fist-width apart is better.

As an aside, I am finishing an applique quilt that was brought to me already professionally basted and partly hand-quilted. My customer just couldn't imagine ever finishing it! I removed the basting and the hand quilting (about 10 square inches) to separate for loading and the area at the bottom was wonky and full. The person who basted it had stitched in puckers. So close attention and extra stitching in full areas is recommended as well.

Basting is easy, quick and good money!;)

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