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Serge seams quilt top...


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I think we might have discussed this topic before, but I am not remembering what was said.

 

I have a client that asked me to do a serge seamed quilt for her.  I told her I wasn't sure about doing that as I thought the serge seams might cause some issues during quilting.  She just wanted and E2E and thought that it wouldn't cause problems.

 

So, what do you ladies think??

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I know some people refuse to do serged quilts and I hesitated when a customer brought me one but I didn't have any problems with it and in fact I have one on my frame right now.  If you are inclined to do it, I would just warn them that it "could" cause problems and then go for it.  I might give this disclaimer about the one on my frame.  It is made of huge squares and triangles so not a lot of seams to deal with.  If it had lots of patchwork I might not want to bother with it.

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Ughhh.  I've just finished two PITA quilts with serged seams.  In my case, it wasn't just the serged (read concrete seams), it was the minky backing and the extra thick stabilizer used on the shirts in the quilt.  Even with my hopping foot raised & set with four business cards, I just couldn't get it over seams where three or more fabrics met. 

 

On the first quilt, I just used a pattern board, sort of like Swirlz.  I ran into severe issues when the pattern needed to go over an intersection.  It was a stitch-by-stitch tug of war to get over a few of the seam humps.  On the second quilt, I quilted various freehand patterns that allowed me to avoid the nastiest of the seams.  I still had some issues, but not as bad.  In retrospect, I should have gone up a needle size as well.  That wouldn't have helped withe the seams, but it might have helped with the extra heavy stabilizers.

 

So, I would ask your customer about the whole quilt sandwich: 1) Is there interfacing or stabilizer ? 2) What thickness of batting is being used?  3) What is the backing fabric for the quilt?

 

Now that I've sounded off on these quilts - the customer was pleased with what I did, the minky quilted up like a dream, and I learned yet another lesson about what combination of things to avoid.

 

Lynn

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I think it depends on the top itself.  Are there hundreds of tiny pieces sewn together with lots of intersections to jam you up, or is it a big block quilt with minimal intersections and lots of space for stitching before you hit a bump.  If it's a relatively simple top without much lumps and bumps, then it would probably work okay with an open, airy quilt design. I wouldn't try anything too tight on it because you run more risk of hitting a bump right in the middle of the panto design and throwing the whole design off. 

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What type of fabric is it as well? If it's heavy or dense fabric I would not. If it is a quilting cotton you may be OK. I would think most people would not try and do intricate piecing on their serger but I'm sure some have, LOL......

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One of the local quilt shops is giving classes on piecing quilts with sergers, they feel no problems should arise as long as the serger is set properly, I have done two and had no problems. However, I did warn the customer ahead there may be seam separating or spreading with ladder looking stitches when the quilt was stretched on the frame if the seams were not tight.

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I agree with Shar on this. I've made several tops myself with the serger and quilted them after. As these have been utilitarian and not show, I didn't fret if a ladder (looking) stitch appeared, most often occurring at intersectios and where I had to pull even gently on to line up because on these I used a medium to smaller meander. A LQS in our area has recently been offering classes on this construction technique also, so I wonder if we are seeing a resurgence of this quick stitch technique.

I don't have any issues quilting a serged top using a 4.0 needle and keeping a nice steady speed right on over the intersections. And I admit that it is also a fun way to quickly create a flimsy. If your serger tension is balanced it shouldn't be an issue of holding up, either. I recently spotted a quilt at our dd house that I made in the 80's using serging and there were no seam issues but there were several blocks I need to replace once I'm back to quilting again (shoulder surgery last week).

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Laura,  When you get a testy area or bulk in an area, spray it with silicone spray.  Works like a charm, doesn't cost much to just spit a wee bit at the spot instead of over an area.  Also helps when going over the rubberized emblems, lettering.

 

Marci, heal fast and well.

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Thank you, Rita. And the silicone spray technique sounds interesting as well, I assume you mean for tshirt screen printed areas in the quilts? Good idea.

Laura,  When you get a testy area or bulk in an area, spray it with silicone spray.  Works like a charm, doesn't cost much to just spit a wee bit at the spot instead of over an area.  Also helps when going over the rubberized emblems, lettering.

 

Marci, heal fast and well.

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Thank you ladies, I will take a look at the quilt and discuss all of these issues with her.  You all have some very good ideas and I am going to be putting those in my 'folder' for future reference. :P

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Marci, yes for the T-shirt thingies... good tech term there.  :D  And for bulky difficult seams in a quilt.

 

I actually use it any time I'm having a thread issue,  or a fabric issue, sticky sewing (I can't explain that.. it is a feeling while quilting)for

no obvious reason, or if the humidity is so low I also have to use Static Guard..  hate those days.

 

I had one crazy quilt seam that was several materials other than just cotton and used the Sewers Aid liquid

on it.  Worked like a dream.

 

When humidity is low I've been known to put a spot of Sewers Aid on my finger and slide it over all the
thread guides and the needle.  Seems to help a lot.

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