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How much do you charge?


NDdarcie

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Someone else jump in here with your opinions please. I finished the overall meander today -- the quilt is actually 88 x 110. It took me 18 bobbins and a total of about five hours but almost one hour was loading, unloading, trimming threads and preparing the invoice so, if I quilted for four hours, that means I was changing bobbins about every 15 minutes. I actually timed it today and that is about how long each bobbin lasted with me doing the overall meander.

Now . . I'm on to the second NY Beauty and I will NEVER do another one!:(

Judy L.

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Hi JudyL and all!

I am certainly no expert...but always have an opinion!!:P;)

I would almost have to say that there are sooo many "sizes" of plain old meander. Each person has his/her size, and sometimes each day, your size of movement and the amount of space in between each movement - depending on mood, how much coffee,:o (Love these smileys!), un-quilt related stress, the workmanship of the quilt, thread, etc., etc. - can be different from the next. So many things can affect our "movements." And thus, affect how much thread is used or quilted up. Batting probably, also? If a person pin-bastes, or thread-bastes sides, top, bottom...?

Also, I would think that the way a mach.quilter start/stops will affect yardage of thread used: whether you micro-stitch start/stop; or whether you tie off/bury.

I feel like I am starting to pay too much for some great thread, so am beginning to keep a tally of each quilt's thread content....and charge!!!! Great!! Another worry!!!! :( Well, I'll clear that statement: I'm paying too much for some great thread to use on clients' quilts, and not receive reimbursement. Everybody's gotta make a living!

Only opinions! No science!

Have a great week everyone!

darcie

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, I have to admit that I am pretty new to long-arming, but have been in the art business for several years and have gotten use to doing quotes for a full job. Here's how I approach it.

I have a basic amount/sq inch rate based on design (I have done exclusively free-hand to this point, and don't really care to ever do pantos). I did a lot of practicing to see how long it took me to do certain designs for every square inch. I use these pieces as samples.

I knew that I didn't even want to think about doing something if I couldn't make $15-20/hour. I have several components to my business and I wasn't willing to settle for less when quilting on other's quilts. So I did my prices/sq" based on that. Then I knew there would be times that I would make a little less if I was doing a pattern that was new or if I was messing with ideas, etc. I just accept that as 1/2 working, 1/2 training experience, so if I make $10/hour I am happy on projects like that.

There may also be times that I give a discount. I have a system with LQS gals that if the client says "so & so" referred them the gals earn 10% off quilting. They can use it on one quilt or build them up so that they get one quilt free, based on the amount of business the client brought in.

On the other hand, I have a PITA (Pain in the #$%) charge also. I am happy to say I haven't had to use this in quilting but in custom artwork and screenprinting....you bet. There are just some people who 'earn' a PITA charge. The ones who need it yesterday. thought it would be different even though they signed off on a sample, don't pay or pay late, call 25x a day to see how it's going. I don't make a big deal out of it. But honestly, I like the time I have with my family and when a client causes me to work overtime and takes time away from them, I charge overtime. Everybody else who works away from their home does and I figure my time is worth it. I learned this from my husband :)

I don't charge extra for basic thread unless there are thread changes then I charge $5 if there are more than 2 changes. I charge for specialty & varigated threads or the customer may send their own, as long as it is machine quilting thread and they provide plenty. I charge to attach binding and to hand finish. I charge to pressing, and other things that may be needed, but I always clear this first with the client.

So far so good. I have been consistently coming right in at the hourly $ that I set. I did have one exception the other day though, bad tension, caused by being very close to the end of the thread spool, and ended up ripping out a good 1ft sq. I ended up taking 4 hours instead of the 2 that I figured, but the client gave me a $10 tip so I still came out alright in the end.

I generally charge more for the things that I know that I don't have the personality for (pantos) (They actually make me feel car sick) and less for some free-hand stuff that I feel like I could almost do in my sleep. There is some free-hand stuff that looks more complicated than a meander but is actually easier for me, so some customers are surprised that they can get that at a similar price.

I am also 'straight-up' with clients about what I think a quilt should have on it, no matter if it costs more or less than they were looking for. I am also up front about any 'issues' their quilt might have. I just make sure they feel good about their efforts and tell them ways that we can make the piece looks it's best.

I guess it works for me....might not for everyone. I am getting clients that pretty much let me do whatever I want on their quilts, trust my judgement after the first quilt and are willing to pay for something different. They are also clients that I am sure would tell me right away if they weren't satisfied, instead of telling everybody else first.

I have to say I have met the nicest people since I started quilting....this is sooooo much better than any other part of my business. You actually get positive feedback and compliments, instead of only hearing when something isn't quite what they expected.:D

Jess

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  • 1 year later...

One possible way to determine yardage on a bobbin -

1. Make friends with your local Postmaster. They have fairly accurate scales.

2. Take one empty self-wound bobbin and one empty pre-wound bobbin to be weighed.

Also take one filled self-wound and one filled pre-wound at the same time.

Be sure that the thread is identical in weight.

(Hint - self-wind using the thread provided on a pre-wound.)

Now for the math.

Subtract the miniscule weight of the empty bobbin from the weight of the filled bobbin for each type.

Divide the yardage of the pre-filled by the weight of the pre-filled. This gives you the yardage per gram or whatever of the thread. Now multiply that number by the weight of the self-wound after subtracting the empty weight - and it should closely approximate the yardage of the self-wound.

It really is easier to do than to write or read

':)'

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  • 4 months later...

I just did a friend's quilt. As a friend I am only charging her $25.00. It is a lap size quilt, pretty small.

I am going to do another quilt for a friend, it is a Queen size, 86 x 100, I am only charing her $35.00.

Both of the ladies are my good friends. and, since I am just learning, I decided not to charge them full price.

I use to send my quilts to a guy that lived in Lineville, Ia. I think the most he ever charged me was $65.00 for a Queen size quilt.

I am trying to come to a conclusion on the best charges for a client.

This is my idea....

Lap $45.00

Twi $65.00

Queen $85.00

King $105.00

What do you think... I don't know that I will charge by an inch or not.... I will have to see..

Opinions welcome....

Barb Wetzel

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Barb: I find it so much easier to have a per square inch price. That way, it doesn't matter if someone comes in with a quilt that is 40 x 200, I can easily figure a price. Here are the prices you listed:

Lap $45.00

Twi $65.00

Queen $85.00

King $105.00

Say a queen is 90 x 108, at $85, your price is .0087/sq. inch.

For a king that is 120 x 120, at $105, you price is .0073 which isn't a lot of difference but at the same rate you're charing for a queen, the king would be $125.28.

While trying to be fair to your clients, don't forget to be fair to yourself too! :)

Judy L.

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Hello,

I have a question that is a little different than you all have been talking about, but I thought I would jump in and get others advice and feelings about this.

I am a brand new quilter, I've done one quilt for a paying customer.

I have a quilt shop owner who called and wants me to do some quilts for her shop and her customers.:D When we started talking about price, she told me that I would pick up and deliver, which is fine by me. She also told me that she would take a 20 percent commission off the top and that I needed to adjust my price accordingly. Is this normal??? So, what, I just add 20 percent and her customers get charged more than normal?

Also, when I told her my price (which is the going rate in my area per square inch), she said that that's what seasoned quilters are getting and that I couldn't get that same rate. I told her that I had been given advice to charge the going rate and then have a "newbie" discount for so many quilts. She didn't seem to think that way. I felt really good about my decision until I talked to her. Is she being goofy or am I????

Thanks for you help,

Robin

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Robin: I guess it depends on how much you want to deal with the shop. The shops I work through don't charge anything AND I get a hefty discount at the shops.

I would surely NOT recommend charging people more who go through the shops. I would charge them the same price I would charge everyone else, and eat the 20% for now. Then, once your name is established and they know you and your work, I'd stop going through the shop and make sure everyone knew how to contact me directly. Just figure the 20% you have to pay the shop as an advertising fee and then when you don't need the advertising, that's an extra 20% for you.

If you are ready to take paying customers, then you are ready! If you are not, then wait and keep practicing. When you are ready, charge the going rate but do NOT take customers until you are ready. Many people will see those quilts and next year or the next, people will see those and associate them with you. If they are great, then you deserve the going rate. If they are more on the "practice" side of great, people will associate the work they see with your name and it will hurt you in the long run.

Don't be impatient. Don't slight yourself! There is plenty of business out there!

Another thing to think about when dealing with the shops. Most of the shops will sell their batting and I expect that. But, when people come to me directly and I am able to sell batting, I make extra $$ on that too.

Good luck! Do what feels right to you.

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Barb,

I also used the man in Lineville and thought he was very reasonable. However, he was planning on going up on his prices. He has since passed away.

I figured an average for what I would charge, per square yard which is easier for me to figure, and then am taking 10% off of my quilting price until Spring. It seems to be working for me, then I don't have to worry about raising prices once I have bit more practice under my belt. I have a price list made up and have listed averages for pantographs as well as my discount until Spring. Good luck!!

Kelly

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Robin, I also work with a shop that promotes my business to their clients. They allow me to use the shop as a pick up and delivery location but they do not expect a percentage of my fees. I do quilt shop samples for them, about 4-5 per year, at no charge to show my appreciation for the business sent my way. If you want this shop business to get yourself established then I agree with Judy, accept the 20% as an advertising cost for awhile and then branch out on your own. However, expect hard feelings once you stop paying the 20%. Is there another way for you to start your business without her referrals? Does the shop have other quilters waiting in line for this deal? Just some things to think about before you shake hands on it.

Remember, this is suppose to be fun too!

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Robin,

Sounds to me like this shop owner isn't really interested in your business. All of the shops I've talked to in SW Missouri will let me pick up/drop off quilts without a commission. Of course they can probably read "fabricholic" all over my face, so they know I'm going to spend time and money in their shop anyway.

Also on another topic...I have had a few local women call to check my prices, tell me I'm charging too much and that they have "a guy" who quilts any size for only $15.00. I let them know they are more than welcome to use his services because I have plenty of people bringing me quilts and paying 'my fees.' I am currently booked up thru the end of January.

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  • 7 months later...

This whole discussion has been so helpful to me. I just got my first client lined up. She actually placed an ad for somebody to machine quilt a bunch of quilts she found in her recently passed away mother's things. She has 7 full size and 3 baby quilt tops to be quilted. She is coming next week for a consultation so I can see the tops (assess the quality, squareness, fabric, etc). She is still deciding whether to provide her own batting and backing or let me provide it. My husband said charge her $15 an hour, but now I really need to sit down and consider pricing a bit more. Thanks to everyone.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi!

I am just starting out doing other people's quilts! Yikes!

I have two questions, one about pricing and the other about backing. These are very basic questions, for sure.

Do you charge extra for sizing and squaring off backing and batting? Not that I am in the league to charge extra for anything. Just wondering. A lady who would like me to quilt her quilt will be giving me very large pieces of both that will have to be resized.

Also, the backing that she would like me to use is a bed sheet. Does this cause any issues at all with the stitching or needle or thread? I've never tried to use a sheet with my longarm.

Thanks heaps. I can see that I have a lot of reading of these chats to catch up on.

Linda/9patch

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Linda,

I have had to use bed sheets several times over the years on both my old Nolting and my APQS UltimateII and never had any problems with the thread or needle. One problem, if the owner will be taking out the hem and removing the selvege. That can be time consuming and I would charge for that. Also make sure that once removed there will be enough left for proper quilting. When the hem is removed it leaves ugly holes that in my experience NEVER go away :( so it is best if it is cut off completely.

As for the squaring, I try to encourage my customers to buy their batting and backing from me. I keep good quality Hobbs in different weights and 100 o/o cotton in large sizes at prices as low possible. I have had customers send some nightmare backs made of 3 or 4 different pieces sewn together in all directions. These I charge for and often suggest something else.

Hope this helps,

Teresa

SilverThreads Quilting

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Thanks, Teresa,

Yes, it certainly does help. I am going to do the quilting for this quilt. Thanks for being so willing to share your experience and knowledge. This is an awesome website, and I can see that I will be able to get a lot of help here. It will be nice to be able to skip a FEW of the mistakes that I would otherwise be making.

I have had my longarm for almost three years, during which I quilted my own and some friends' quilts. But because I was also teaching, I didn't have a lot of time. I just retired, and I am so excited to have evenings and weekends back...for quilting! Yah!

Thanks again,

9patch/Linda

:)

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  • 5 months later...

I am right in the middle of the charging dilemma and am glad to see I'm not alone. Any suggestions as to how to price something that has "Baltimore Album" style outlining of applique? I have a Robert Callahan Sampler from several years back (an old McCalls pattern, I'm sure some of you have seen it) to do for a customer and I'm having nightmares. Not to mention that I am VERY NEW TO THIS and have been practicing like a maniac to get ready for it. Luckily, she said to take my time.

Robin

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My 2c worth. I charge a min. of $50. I recently picked up 3 baby quilts under 44" wide. The blocks were appliqued bears, etc very 30s style.

She measured NOTHING. She squared NOTHING. Let me tell you that while I considered charging her less but after all the squaring I had to do with the backing and the top (some sashing strips were 3/4" longer than the blocks, some were 1/2" smaller) the intersections did not match, and everything leaned toward one side or the other. I was not reducing the cost. I did email her that her quilts were ready and attached some "tips" that I have posted on my website and suggested one of my classes....

Cynthia

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I have to jump in here on the topic of the shop owner charging 20% off the top of your quilting cost. I understand the quilt shop owner wants to make a profit. However I think this is taking advantage of you because you are new to the longarm quilting.

Free quilt samples for her shop ect, are excellant ways for this to be a win win situation for both of you. I would talk with her about this.

I would not sign any contracts with her either stating that any clients are exclusively hers. I have had quilt shop owners expect this when I taught quilting classes for them.

I would offer a 20% discount at the begining but keep prices up there with others in the area. Or you will have difficulty in the future when it comes time to raise your prices.

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Hello Ladies, I haven't posted before but I want to add my 2 cents. I'm new and have done only customer quilt for a very encouraging person. I charge the going ratem but I o0nly am willing to offer those types of quiloting I am proud of. So, no fancy custom work...yet...and lots of overal and various meanders, a little block work with stencils, but pantos are still beyond me. Mostly because I do0n't like to do what I'm told, I think. I imagine I'll have to turn away some business while I'm still beefing up skills but it will protect my reputation and keep me sane, right?

Anne in Fl Moonrabbit Quiklts

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  • 2 months later...

My credentials are: made 94 quilts, only 3 hand quilted and the rest machine quilted on my Singer. I'm on this forum because I'm thinking about starting a MQ business. So please note that my credentials are no experience in what you are doing! ! ! So keep that in mind as I have the audicity to put my 2 cents worth in.

I have been reading this bobbin stuff with interest and notice that so far no one has brought up the variable of the thickness of the batting. In that a proper stitch joins the threads equidistant between the top and bottom, a thicker batting is going to require more thread than a thinner one. Could that be a factor in all these discrepancies? In addition, inasmuch as sometimes I have to adjust the tension on my Singer when changing from one spool of thread to another spool of the same color thread by the same manufacturer, are you figuring in differences in threads?

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  • 2 months later...

wow!! is all I can say to this conversation. I am really new to this, I've only sent 3 quilts out to be quilted and the last one came back cut.....where the gal cut the stitches out she cut my quilt, then said all sorts of things about me doing it..............long story short, I purchased my own longarm and have yet to charge anyone for a quilt.

I'm still practicing............I'm too much of a perfectionist......drives me crazy.

Then, there are so many ways to charge.........Thank you for all this info, it has been great in figuring out how to charge.......wow again.

Tish

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