SueD

John - you may want to create a new listing for your item instead of adding this to the end of a listing originally posted more than 2 years ago.  It's also helpful if you include photos, your location and any shipping/delivery options.  

Mindy - there’s a manual in the files in the Facebook group. It has a rev date in 2014 so it looks like that might be the right one. There’s a photo showing front handle installation and it looks like you have it plugged into the correct connector. 

Mindy - contact APQS and they can send you the manual for your machine.  Are there any dealers near you?  You may not need the full "new owner" classes ($200 if you didn't purchase from a dealer), but you may be able to arrange for a shorter training with them.  There's a Facebook group "We Love APQS".  Members are very helpful and there are some dealers in the group.  I've watched a lot of quilting videos and haven't seen any "how to operate an APQS".  

Unfortunately, that thread-displacement that causes dotted runs of light thread next to the needle holes is not really correctable. This happens with piecing as well as quilting. Since you've tried a smaller needle already, use a Pigma pen for small corrections and know that they're only evident really close up. 

Betsy - that's a great and very simple idea!  I'm going to have to do that.  Thanks!

I use curtain rods and they work great!  I made a muslin sleeve for each of them so they won't scratch my rollers, and since the sleeves are sewn closed on both ends, they keep the curtain rods from "growing" and falling apart.  

I'd recommend cheap curtain rods like these.  Spend <$10 on a couple these the next time you're near a hardware store/Target/Walmart.  Or find wooden yardsticks.  
https://www.homedepot.com/p/28-in-48-in-Single-Curtain-Rod-in-White-869465/309976524?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-309976880-_-309976524-_-N&
Or spend $55 (+shipping) on these which are ridiculously overpriced and probably why they're hard to find.
https://www.aquilterschoice.com/shop/NotionsLongarm-Supplies/p/Clamp-Supports---Millie-Freddie-Lucey-MY-19-machines-Set-of-2-x50172110.htm
If you want the "worktable" (the Lenni version they sell is $135) - get a couple of the curtain rods and attach (gorilla glue, painters tape, nut & bolt) a piece of plexiglass from your local hardware store on top of them.  You'll spend at most probably $25.  

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I don't know about a specific Fons & Porter video, but there are a lot of YouTube videos on loading quilts. 
There's one a lot of people recommend called "Loading Lori's way".
Whirlsnswirls quilting also has a youtube channel and I'm pretty sure I saw a video on loading.  She's an APQS dealer and has several hundred short videos posted stitching out various quilting designs.  
APQS has lots of articles https://www.apqs.com/category/education/quilt-prep-loading-tips/  They also have a youtube channel.  
 

Stuck as in you just can't get motivated to quilt? I make bargains with myself all the time.  Just do "the thing I don't want to do" for 15 min or 20 or whatever, then I can do "the other thing I want to do" afterwards.  It always seems like I want to be doing something other than what I should be doing.  
I have a quilt on my frame that I bought an estate sale.  Thought it would be good practice.  It was in decent shape - a few minor stains/discolorations but no holes.  It's 7 blocks by 8 blocks.  It's fan blocks and I'm doing ruler work and freehand feathers - same pattern in every block  I'm over halfway through and it takes me almost 30 min to do each block.  It seems like I've been working on it forever and I still have 21 blocks to go!  Plus I think my feathers look sloppy.  I don't know how people do detailed custom work for hire and meet customer deadlines.  
Or are you stuck meaning no idea what to quilt in the custom area?  Pinterest, Instagram (which is down today along with facebook), quilting books, youtube.  Start drawing on plastic/plexiglass over the quilt until something speaks to you.  

Excellent points, thanks Sue.  I will edit the post to include more detail.  You're right about CT though, you can get from one end to the other in 2.5-3 hours.....lol.

You should probably contact APQS or a local dealer to see if bliss is available in that size and the costs.  I thought standard table/rail sizes were 10', 12' and 14'.  

SueD has great advice and I agree that you will need to quilt sections separately and then join after quilting. I max out at about 120" on the rollersfor a quilt with cotton batting. Maybe make the sections 48"+ by 120" plus extra for attaching to the rollers and seaming together later. There are lots of tutorials pertaining to quilt-as-you-go that can help you decide which technique to use to butt the batting together and cover the joins on the back side. Plan it on graph paper, allowing extra fabric at the top and bottom of each section so joining is easier later. Assuming you are quilting the writing, mark the whole design on each section and mark exactly where the top and bottom joining seams will be so the writing looks natural.  If you can find 120" muslin fabric for the backer (check Joanns on line), you will save money on fabric.  

How about adding the writing with a marking tool (erasable marker or chalk) to all the pieces before you start?  Or even just horizontal lines where the writing goes, like lined paper. You could also keep a reference paper with the writing size next to you when you quilt. I’m not sure I could keep consistent size whether it’s one piece or several pieces anyway. 

It looks like Intelliquilter supports CompuQuilter.
https://www.intelliquilter.com/compuquilter-home.php
 

Bonnie - Bob,
Generally speaking, price, location, if seller will ship, other items included, why are you selling, etc., will greatly aid with your sale.  
Best of luck to you.
Cagey

It would be helpful to potential buyers if you can post photos, state the model name and year, and where you are located.  

Bring a hand mirror to check underneath (flashlight on cell phone helps). 
You should also be able to run a fingernail along the stitching on the bottom - if your nail is catching on each stitch, there's a good chance the tension needs to be adjusted.    

Bring a hand mirror to check underneath (flashlight on cell phone helps). 
You should also be able to run a fingernail along the stitching on the bottom - if your nail is catching on each stitch, there's a good chance the tension needs to be adjusted.    

Is it a  Qnique Long Arm Quilting Machine ?  you might have to call The Grace Company or look for a Q'nique group on the internet.
 

Cagey has some great suggestions.
My initial thought when I looked at the quilt was echo quilting the outside edges of the large half square triangles (maybe 1/2" apart).  This would accentuate the medallion look of the quilt. 
I wasn't sure where to go from there in the other pieced half of the blocks - maybe just orange peel/continuous curves around each of the pieces.  Another idea would be something more curvy to tie in with the feathers in the border.
Check out After Hours youtube from Linda's Electric Quilters.  They've done some freehand quilting videos using a basic 8 stencil and ideas from some Pam Clarke books they sell.  The videos might give you enough ideas that you wouldn't necessarily need the stencil/books.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFFEyat3Ero&list=PLVdSb7hu7qSLInNkT4mV1r6aCwDHh3w2f&index=12
Let us know what you come up with!  Good luck.
Sue

Holly,
Check with Lauren as she was working on a couching foot awhile back.  Not sure if it ever worked out for her; https://boldnotionquilting.com/product/scoop-foot-apqs/
Cagey

Jim:  I guess I didn't know what to expect.  The table and carriage rails would need to be wider for the wheels to ride on the edges correct?  I don't think I've noticed any wiggle.  If I run the machine on manual at a slower speed to warm it up or spin out wd40, I note the machine vibrates but I'm not sure whether or not it did that before.  I wasn't too worried about it because if I was quilting, I'd be holding the handle anyway which stops the vibrating.  
I did some actual quilting last night (instead of just scribbling).  I was doing some small swirl/spiral designs.  I felt like the machine was always going where I was guiding it and all of them were round.  Before it sometimes felt like it wanted to move either horizontal or vertical and not around.  I originally thought that was due to the stitch regulator but maybe it was the wheels.  
I don't regret putting them on.  The old OEM wheels could have been up to 13 years old.  Replacing with the same OEM wheels was about the same prices as the ER's.  I bought the machine used last summer and don't know if they'd ever been replaced.  The previous owner told me she replaced a roller brake and the go button.  She didn't mention any other replacements.  The gear box didn't have any grease in it, which I added.  (Seems for a short time, APQS didn't put grease in them.)  

Sounds like everything is good.  My Ult2 acted the same way before I replaced her wheels.  However the new wheels fit your rails, by the looks of the "before" photos, they fit tighter than the OEM.  You made a good choice.  Jim

Sue:  I'm disappointed the wheels ride on the bottom of the wheel "V" rather than on the sides, but the real test is whether they are stable.  Does Lenni wiggle at all when you move it?  If it doesn't wiggle then they'll work fine.  My guess is that even if there is some movement, it's under better control than it was with the OEM wheels.  Jim