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Top and Bottom Thread Colors


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I am quilting a log cabin, made in blue and creams, with red in the "window", I was going to quilt the top with a cream thread, but the back in a deep red with black thru it.  I know alot of you use the same color top and bottom, the top will blend but the back will stand out.  What would you do.

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Ginny Lane

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Kristina's advice is good; if you go with different colors of threads check your tension first and make sure you have no tracks top or bottom; especially in the points and rounder patterns!  I have a few quilts like this done by a long-armer I used to pay and it was one of the things that resulted in my getting my own machine! Yay! Now, I'm glad I have those because I love my Mille and quilting my own! There is always some good happening in the bad!

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No guts no glory. Giggle,  I have had some OK luck at different colors top and bottom as long as you don't get carried away (black and white).

You will have better luck keeping with same brand . Had a customer that wanted 100% cotton on the top and shiny rayon on the back. Never again I was not very happy with what came out of this but that is what she wanted even after my warnings. She was happy and I got paid but  we both were new at this.

How about a medium blue on top and a darker gray on the back to go with the black.

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Ginny,

 

I may be a lone wolf here, but whenever I'm stuck with choosing two highly contrasting colors in the top and bobbin, I pick invisible thread for the bottom thread. I have used this combo for many, many years and it gets me out of the pickle of choosing the "lesser of two evils" when it comes to thread color showing on one side or the other. Of course, your customer has to be OK with that, but a little education goes a long way once they understand that the invisible thread will NOT cut their fabric or otherwise cause issues.

 

If you want to give it a try, wind the bobbin only half-way full, loosen the bobbin tension, and then adjust the top and check tension as you would for regular thread. Quilt in all directions and make a few loops clockwise and counterclockwise on your test piece, and then use your fingernail to check for loose tension on the back. Drag it along the thread lines to see if your nail catches top thread loops. If it does, tighten the top tension a bit more, and loosen the bobbin tension. If the thread breaks in the bobbin, loosen it more.

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Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I didn't have a blue I likes, so I did auditions dome grays, and have decided on a lighter grey on top and a couple shades darker gray on the bottom.  Would have never chosen those colors, but I like it!!  I will try the invisable thread on something else, as I think this will be washed and dryed alot, makes me worry about melting.

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Ginny,

 

I may be a lone wolf here, but whenever I'm stuck with choosing two highly contrasting colors in the top and bobbin, I pick invisible thread for the bottom thread. I have used this combo for many, many years and it gets me out of the pickle of choosing the "lesser of two evils" when it comes to thread color showing on one side or the other. Of course, your customer has to be OK with that, but a little education goes a long way once they understand that the invisible thread will NOT cut their fabric or otherwise cause issues.

 

If you want to give it a try, wind the bobbin only half-way full, loosen the bobbin tension, and then adjust the top and check tension as you would for regular thread. Quilt in all directions and make a few loops clockwise and counterclockwise on your test piece, and then use your fingernail to check for loose tension on the back. Drag it along the thread lines to see if your nail catches top thread loops. If it does, tighten the top tension a bit more, and loosen the bobbin tension. If the thread breaks in the bobbin, loosen it more.

Hey Dawn,

Which brand of invisible thread do you use? Thanks, Tracey

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Sorry to say I haven't been back here in a while, life has gotten in the way.  It'll be awhile before I try to post any pictures, unfortunately my tension must have been off, I didn't see it, needless to say I will be ripping out a couple of rows! YUCH!!  Thanks for all your help, sure did learn from this.

 

Ginny Lane

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Tracey,

 

I use both Polyester and Nylon versions, depending on the project. I stick with poly when the quilt will receive lots of use, exposure to a hot dryer or lots of sunlight. (Superior's Monopoly, Sulky and Madiera are locally available to me so I tend to choose those). When I'm using the invisible to go around applique, embroidery, or other delicate areas, I choose nylon. It does have the potential to melt from a hot iron or dryer, or get brittle from too much sun. But since I'm using it on applique, few quilters want all that hand-work exposed to either sun or heavy laundering. It's been a good match for me, anyway. (favorites are YLI Wonder Thread, and one by Sew Art International.)

 

My choices are more based on availability for me than anything else. Other companies have introduced good products as well, such as Fil Tec. I just haven't had an opportunity to try them yet. Today's invisible thread are nothing like the huge cone of Shakespeare heavy duty invisible I was talked into buying when I bought my machine in 1994. I think it was 10-lb test fishing line made by the actual fishing line manufacturer--Shakespeare! :)

 

I also choose based on suppleness and light reflection. Some new poly threads have been reformulated to reduce shine, but I still tend to grab my old favorite nylon threads when I really don't want to see "plastic" reflection.

 

Invisible is also my go-to thread with metallic threads. It works wonders as the bobbin thread when the metallic is wimpy and wants to break.

 

Hope that helps!

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