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Thread, Pattern, Antique Hand-Pieced Star Quilt


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Hi all, I sure could use some ideas about quilting this hand stitched antique quilt.

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My customer's mother hand-pieced this top quite a long time ago, my Customer is in her late 70's. The clover leaf patterns were all marked in pencil but her Mother hadn't finished all the embroidery on them. My Customer finished the embroidery and now it's time to have Mom's Starz quilted. As you can see, I have decided on a feather design with some flexibility for the stars as they aren't "square" either.

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I thought I'd use a fill design around the outside of the embroidered Clovers and a freehand mirror of the clover design inside each element. I only plan to SID around the Muslin squares and diamonds. My indecision (1) is about how dense a fill to use on the muslin areas outside of the Embroidery. Since the inside won't be densly stitched I don't want to mess this up and create a humpy, bumpy, lumpy Clover with a dimple in the middle. My original idea was a meander/stipple, for the outside area, but now I'm leaning to a 3s & Es fill or a wandering C fill, I thought maybe 1/2" to 3/4" density, but I just can't get a confident feel for the size . . . Cross-hatching doesn't seem to be a viable alternative because the "squares" aren't square.

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I am also having a devil of a time deciding what stitch length to use. The hand stitching of the piecing shows and is in the 10 SPI area, should I try to match them? I'm afraid to use as small a stitch as I usually do as I think it will look too "Machine Stitched". The entire quilt is 40's-50's prints, each "Pieced Star" is different, they are cotton, not blends and the Square/Diamond fillers are vintage muslin, it's tight and fine. The backing is Muslin. I think I will use Bottom Line top and bottom to match in the muslin areas. I'm not at all sure what color to use on the stars since they're all unique. This leads to my last question, I promise . . . Would it be sacrilegious to use a monofilament on top for the feathers so as not to distract from the fabrics and piecing on the stars? I suspect this isn't really an acceptable solution to my thread color dilemma, so, I'm open to creative suggestions? I have 8 or 10 colors of Bottom Line and a large selection of 50wt. 100% cotton but the Bottom Line stitches better in Milli. I am Way Out in the Sticks, so just going to the store to purchase what I want or need isn't an option. Thanks, can't wait to hear from you about suggestions.

Oh yes, I am not computerized but use Pre-Design to print patterns and follow them with my laser stylus. Havent updated my Signature yet . . .

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Dixie Lee,

This quilt is pretty and I'm sure it means an awful lot to the daughter who finished it. I personally would use an off-white to match the muslin and from what I can see it would blend in fairly well even on the stars. The key is to use a very thin thread like SoFine or Bottom Line. I have used monofilament but I'm still on the fence about using them on a family heirloom. I'm sure others would disagree with me. I like the idea of either a stipple or e's and 3's. It would fit with the quilt. I do love cross-hatching but if the blocks aren't square that might not look so good. Another option might be to do a vein with leaves to connect all the clovers. I'm sure it will be beautiful.

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Lovely quilt! I would use an off white So Fine if poss (top & bottom) but I've used off white Isacord on a feedsack too.

Your fillers sound good - stipple would also be easy and appropriate for this vintage

Shells would work well on the patchwork part and would ease bumpy parts in

I never stitch anything less than 12 on SR anyway because I like small stitches and they don't stand a chance of coming undone

This quilt could easily have been machine finished in the first place - there was an article in a recent QNN mag about the first logarm setup in 1943!

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Dixie,

I agree with Heidi and Linzi on the thread color. I use Bottom Line in ivory, natural white, or cream most of the time. It's thin enough that it does not distract from the colors in the blocks. If this had been hand quilted, the quilter would likely have used the same color thread throughout.

I usually run my stitches at 11 per inch. Like Heidi, I like the look of the smaller stitches.

I also like my quilts heavily quilted so I would lean towards the denser background fill. I would also do something in the centers of the clovers to keep them from poofing. Maybe a little swirl in each clover leaf.

I love 30's quilts and I can't wait to see this one finished. Please post pictures when you are done.

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Oh, thank you all for your great suggestions and support. I'm getting a pretty good "feel" for how this project should go . . . now all I have to do it stitch it!

Lenzi, thanks for the info about Longarming actually being available way back in 1943. Now I won't feel quite so badly about machine stitching this lovely bit of handwork. I'm running the shells idea through my head, as I write. Hmmm, not as much work as the feathers and I could do them entirely freehand and, as you mentioned it would also tie down the humpy, bumpy areas, obviously you have quilted some hand-stitched quilts. This one isn't by any means terrible, but the seams are not as smooth and precise as machine sewn piecework, and some of her seams are a little puckered. I just don't want to have to tear anything out, I'm afraid of wounding the fabric.

I'm really SLOW when it comes to quilting, so don't expect any results for awhile . . .

Later, Dixie

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  • 2 months later...

Hello, I finally finished this quilt a couple of weeks ago but have been so busy in the interim, I haven't had time to post the finished pictures. Isn't it amazing how one week you'll be tearing your hair trying to figure out how to live on no income and the next you have 3 quilts come in all at once???? Go figure!

Thanks so much for your encouragement, suggestions and ideas, I know my customer was very happy with her mother's finished quilt, she said how much she wished her Mom could see it!

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Dixie Lee, that is so pretty, I just took an antique quilt to Innovations to see an appraiser to see what I should do with it. She said the fabrics are from 1880 - 1910. She also said the quilting shouldn't be dense. It looks like yours isn't very dense. I wish I could do feathers.

Your quilting is very pretty

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Dixie Lee...when you first posted this I was the land of no computer so missed your original posting. I have to say I am so in love with this quilt...your quilting for some reason really touched me...I'm not sure why, but I do know that I love the antique top and your quilting... Thanks for sharing, and am so sorry I missed it earlier.

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Oh, thank you all so much for your complements! It really means a great deal when approval and such lovely comments come from this group. You are all so very talented and creative. It took so long working on this one, I'd about lost my confidence. It really was quite a challenge. It was so amazing that eventually my "3-part" spraying, smoothing, caressing technique "blocked" out the "pucked seams" and "warped" blocks, kinda like re-blocking a wool sweater. When I took this quilt in, I never dreamed I could finish it that smooth and flat. I even cautioned my customer about how crooked and skewed the square and diamond blocks might be, I just figured I'd have to do the best I could with what I was given. I was and am still, so amazed at how malleable that old fabric really was when dampened, smoothed and allowed to air dry. The Muslin really had "a lot of shrink". Those little hand stitches were so puckered and wavy at the beginning of each new section, they scared the breath right out of me. It was truly "Magic" how it all came to be. Thank You All! Again. . . for your suggestions, support and very rewarding complements for the result of this project. I sure hope future Heirloom projects turn out as well as this one. At least now, I have some more experience and the confidence to accept them . . . rather than turn them down. I just hope I have enough judgment to know the ones I shouldn't attempt. I guess that's what experience if about and for . . .

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