Jump to content

Using the HF to do circles


Recommended Posts

Hi there! It's me again. I am the one with the HF who wants some circle templates. I must be totally stupid because I spent the day working on it and I got o.k. circles, but not nearly as accurate as I would like. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong?

It seems so time consuming to get it positioned where I want and try to get a good circle. I guess I just assume it should be as easy as most other things. I have to go back and relearn to PPP?

Any suggestions would be great!

THanks

Luv2kwilt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Luv,

I too need to ppp my HF. I have only done a couple of circles and you need to use the knob to move the machine to make the circle rather than moving the machine by the machine. Clear as mud? I think it is a matter of ppp but since I have the fence and no circle templates, no CL, and no extra $$ I think I will try hard to use the HF. I am sure someone with more experience will chime in here but thats my 2 cents:)

Wish I could take Myrna's class on th HF!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luv2kwilt,

Do you have Myrna Fickens DVD on the Hartley Fence? If you don't, it is a must have. She really explains control of doing circles and crosshatching with your HF.

My experience is that when you go around to do the circle, pretend that you are scraping the sides of a cake bowl. Always push out and your circles will be perfect. That is just one little tip on Myrna's DVD. Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It also helps if the fence is firmly attached to the machine. Any play in the fence will lead to ovals. Just my experience. The needle of your machine is the pin on the arm. The center of the circle is the knob of the circle attachment, not the holes in the circle maker. Make sense? Did you get a book with your fence when you got it? It should help explain things. Keep ppp. The fence is a great tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I realised that I did not have the HF firmly enough attached - it should not budge when locked down so you may have to tighten up its track wheels and the brake attachment.

When quilting the circle just guide it round and don't try to push it out. Use a finer thread until you get confident.

I do my circles from the front. I set it all up at the back then return to the front to pick up the thread and keep an eye on the circle... eyeball it and if you think it will not meet, then give it a bit of a push.

You can always add a few sparkles later on the join (made to look deliberate, of course!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I first tried the HF my circles were eggs and my DH's were perfect round circles--just made me determined to get mine!! Wish I had known the "scraping the bowl" thought!!

Anyway keep at it--as they really work great once you're not so scared of it. Or do a quilt with tons of circles...

post--13461901756353_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IF and when you use the pattern boards say from CL or Urbanelements and R&S you need to keep in mind the "Scrapping of the bowl" as well.... or at least hit the same point on the board the same way....if you go to the high side on one and the low side on the other it gives it a wonky look as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bonnie is right - any of the board systems need are the same as the HF - I personally think the CL is the easiest, but that said the amount of pressure you put on the stylus/pin and where to put the pressure will effect the end result of the designs you are doing. When you use the larger boards, you learn to get a feel as to when and where you place the pressure (in or out) to get the smoothest designs. It is also important to sew at a steady, not too fast pace - don't try to race around the circle/design!! Once you have the concept and feel - it is a breeze!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

luv2kqwilt,

I didn't realize you already own a HF!

Here's the slick trick to getting perfect circles with the Hartley Fence. Because the APQS machines now have soft mounts on the axles to make the ride smoother, this impacts the effectiveness of the fence.

So to eliminate the ovals, once you have positioned the fence where you want it and have put the pin into the circle part, turn on your machine and drive the machine with the handle of the pin you dropped into the circle device, NOT the machine's handles. When you drive with the machine's handles, your pressure will ever so slightly bend the extension arm and flex those soft mounts, creating the ovals you mention.

As to placing the fence, put the needle over the exact spot you want the CENTER of the circle to be. You can drop the needle into the fabric if you want. Now slide the HF table around, AND/OR move the circle device on the HF table until you can get the pin attached to the end of the extension arm to rest on top of the center "pivot bolt" on the circle device.

That pivot bolt which holds the spinning circle device represents the very center of the circle. The pin at the end of the extension arm represents the NEEDLE. So if that pin can rest on top of that pivot bolt, your circle will be centered where you want it. As long as you can slide the HF table and/or the circle device and align that pivot bolt with the pin on the extension arm, you've got the circle centered.

Hope that helps. But the biggest hint, again...drive the machine with the handle on the pin, NOT the machine's handles.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...