Tension

[Tmaus]

I have a question. Do you all have to turn your machine on and run it for 10 to 15 minutes to "warm it up" so the tension is right?

I have been told to do that; I have a Liberty APQS, and on Monday when I had lots of time to sew I could not get the tension right even when I did let the machine run for 10-15 minutes. After over an hour trying to get the tension right and running the machine a second time to warm it up I finally gave up.

But it's frustrating to have to do that because sometimes when I come home from work I could do some quilting except that I have to warm up the machine and then I always work on a practice piece before I go to the quilt and all of that takes 1/2 hour or so and it's just hard to keep going when I'm tired and then when I have so much trouble with the tension.

So my question is: do you have to run your machine with not thread or bobbin in it before you go to use it after it has sat for a some time.

[IBQLTN2]

I am not expert but I don't think letting your machine warm up has too much to do with your tension problems. whether I start off cold or have run the machine the tension basically does not get better or worse. If you are having tension problems post where the problem seems to be and someone should be able to help you with this.

[Ferret]

I've never warmed my Discovery up. I wasn't told to so I didn't and it doesn't seem to matter. The tension drifts when in feels like it, it's rare for it to be first thing in a days stitching.

Ferret

[Stagecl]

I have warmed up my machine for a few minutes but never that long. I usually turn the machine on, let the electronics warm up, then I turn the machine on to a slow stitch for a few minutes. After that I am ready to sew. Maybe a total of 5 to 6 minutes...I could be totally out of the ball park, but it works for me. Tension shouldn't have anything to do with how warm the machine is...at least it hasn't for me.

[Tmaus]

Jeanne, when you say post where the problem seems to be what do you mean?

[doodlebug]

tmaus- what she means is:

is the top thread breaking or the bobbin? is the top thread visible on the backing (eyelashes) or is the bobbin visible on the quilt top? what are you doing the minute the thread breaks (if it's breaking)

here's my advice/help: take your bobbin case out of the machine (leave the bobbin in there)and hold the tail end of the thread. does it drop freely? or does it just hang? if it drops freely- your bobbin is too loose- tighten it (just a smige of a turn, a little goes a long way) and try the 'drop test' again. you want the bobbin to drop a couple of inches and then stop on it's own (called spidering). do this test with a FULL bobbin. then order yourself a Towa GAuge. i love mine, even after LAing without one for 5 years.

now to top tension- once you have the bobbin set- stitch out on a small test piece. if the top thread it breaking- it's too tight, loosen it a 1/2 to a full turn counterclock wise (righty/tighty, lefty loosy). just keep trying, tension is the most difficult thing to learn on these macines- but it's totally WORTH it in the end.

try this too:

http://www.apqs.com/artists_dawnc_blog.php

[IBQLTN2]

thanks doodlebug that is exactly what I meant. If there are any other tension issues you are having also let us know what brand of thread you are using in the top and bobbin. all these things can make a difference on how you thread the machine as well. (which guides you use, etc.)

[doodlebug]

okay i have a question:

since we're talking tension i've noticed a 'new' (to me) desciptive term being thrown around in terms of tension, and wonder what it means.

rail road tracking.... ???

[Tmaus]

Thank you Shannon, I have done all of that but I didn't know that the bobbin should stop after a couple of inches of dropping. I had adjusted the top and bottom depending on how the stitches looked. But where do I get a Towa Guage? And do you know how much they cost?

I have to go to work right now but I'll check this when I get home and I really appreciate everyones help. I was so upset on Monday that I told my husband we would sell the machine. (I don't think he would let me because he knows how much I like it when I can get it to work).

thank you everyone and I hope you have a nice day. Talk to you later, Tamara

[doodlebug]

OH OH OH don't sell your machine! i feel your frustrations- we all do. we've all been there, that's why we're here.

towa are a bit costly, but worht their weight in gold. i use mine for a number. that gives me a place to start, then once i see how it stitches i mke adjustments. that way i can use different threads.

towa:

http://columbiariverquilting.com/towa_bobbin_case_tension_guage.html

remember, we have 'L' class bobbins. (we Love our machines, except during tension problems:P)

[TracyeQ]

I have to respectfully disagree w/Shannon. If my bobbin drops freely to the floor it might STILL BE TOO TIGHT! That's why I had to buy a Towa gage.

I had my previous machine for 3 yrs and dropping freely to the floor was the perfect setting, but w/my Freedom SR it was too TIGHT! I had to buy a gage so I could have a number for freer than free. Now that I know what my machine likes I set any bobbin to that and then do any minor tweaking needed to the top thread.

Example...my machine likes bobbin tension at 10-11 (100-110 on the new gages) and when I went to run a BL prewound the other day they were pulling thru the gage at almost 300! I had to really loosen up my bobbin to get it to the right setting for my machine and was then able to go along like normal.

When I went back to my Maxi Loc in the bobbin just tightened it back to where THAT ran at 110. Easy peasy.

If I get everything looking right but the top thread keeps breaking I know I need to loosen it. If it makes things wonky, then I'll loosen up the bobbin to match.

Does that make sense?

[IBQLTN2]

thanks for the link for the towa gauge

I just ordered one. Hopefully, this will speed up my tension adjustments when I need to change threads.

[Sparkle]

Hi Tamus,

I have an Ultimate II with an added Intellistitch i/s Turbo regulator after market stitch regulator. Part of using this particular stitch regulator is a built in "warm up" period. Before I thread the machine or insert a bobbin I turn on the warm-up feature which is approx. 2 mins. (not 10 or 15 which is Waaaay toooo long!)

Before I turn on the warm up feature I oil my machine bobbin race, and the top wicks. Then start the warm up. While it's warming up I wind bobbins in prep for quilting. I check around my tracks and wipe them down. I do a few stretching and warm up exercises myself! and then we are set to start quilting, Both of us! So, that two-three minutes is not wasted time----just standing there waiting for the machine to cycle through the warm up.

If you are have consistant tension problems, switching threads a lot, then buy a TOWA tension gauge (I wouldn't be without mine)----and try settling into speciifc threads that you and your machine work well with.

I use So-Fine in my bobbin most of the time, and Superiors LAVA, King Tut or So-Fine on the top now days. Those are the threads I use for most quilts. I have my TOWA bobbin tension gauge set to use So-Fine at approx. 21 on the gauge. My top tension runs quite loose for LAVA and King Tut. I tighten it up a bit for So-Fine on the top.

I hope some of these suggestions are helpful---I've found to own a long arm machine it helps to be somewhat mechanically inclined.

[carmen]

Tmaus,

Sometimes is maddening. After you do everything the ladies have told you, look at the tension control, is the thread going into it snug or is it loose ? does it looks like a hammock?

It should be snug. Pull the thread going into it and out of it at the same time. This has work for me in the past. Sometimes is as simple as that. Other times is better to stop and take a

a walk, come back to it latter. You will conquer the beast.

Carmen

[Bonnie]

Both Shannon and Tracye are right...some machines need to have a totally free drop to the floor bobbin and some need to only slowly creep an inch or two... YOU will need to find the sweet spot for your machine. Not any two machines are the same....yes they are made the same, but its how we are tweeking them that each will find a sweeter spot. Mine I only want the bottom bobbin to creep 1 inch and that is with any type of thread that goes into it. And some will need to creep with bottom line ro sew fine and need to fall to the ground with King Tut or Lava. You will need to find the one that works for your machine.

I do not have a Towa, people swear by them, but this old dog hasn't gotten that trick yet so can't weigh in on the pros or cons about it.

As far as warming up the machine before you use it....if your room is cold in the winter time, the machine needs to be warm for the oils to move in there properly...its really doesn't have anything to do with tensions. Now if your room is set to be 75 degrees years around...your machine, along with the oils inside is setting there at 75 degrees, and your warm up time will be way shorter than someone who has just turned up the heat. If the machine is warm by the natural area the oils are also warm. I never warmed up my machine EVER until I got it into a room that I can't keep constant... natural temps in the basement are 62 almost year around, which is to cold for the machine to run properly, I turn on the heater and when the room gets to about 68-70 I then turn the machine on and let it run for about 8 minutes, and off we go.

I honestly don't think warming up the machine is going to make a difference to tensions, but it will make a difference to how your machine is oiling the joints.

[meg_marsh]

I agree with all said above: #1 - the towa guage - once you have one you will find the "sweet spot"/number for your machine - right now mine is about 15 (150 on some towas). #2. oil first, remove bobbin and let run while I clean rails, wind bobbins, etc. - should take 4 - 5 minutes. Don't rush - just go through the process. Then a little stitching on a little sample/practice piece & off I go.

As to additional tension issues - different threads and sometimes different colors within the same thread line will make a difference due to the amount of dye in the thread. Just remember - bobbin first, then top tension. Also, your batting will make a difference. Wool & Dream Puff run about the same for me - need to make changes for blends & cotton. Then, sometimes, it is the fabric - oriental fabrics with metallic on them seem to cause me the most issues & I have noted that some people indicate that batiks cause issues. It is too bad that something as important as tension can cause us such grief at times.

good luck and be patient - it will work out!!

[Bekah]

I know exactly how you feel, including wanting to sell my machine because I didn't think I would ever get it right. But just hang in there and take it slowly. Like everyone says each machine has its own personality. Mine wants the bobbin dashing for the floor, it took me a long time to get that figured out. Thanks especially to Myrna and Linda Rech for helping me get it right. We are all here for you. Like Meg says, thread, batting and material can also play into it. Just breath and one of these days it will just all of a sudden be okay. I promise. I cried a lot and wasn't very nice to my girl when I first got her. Now she is my best friend.

[quiltlover03]

I am with Bonnie, my bobbin drops about 1.5 in no matter what thread I use in it. I only ever adjust the top tension on my machine. I also never warm up my machine. I have been known to go in my studio in my jammies, turn on my baby and go right to it. If you have a cold studio, then she needs to warm up in the winter, but otherwise I don`t see it having to run for any amount of time. I also know that any tension issues with my Freedom are in the bobbin and only when there is just a minute little linty under the spring. Little things, but oh so important.

I hope you get the bugs worked out, each machine seems to have it`s own little quirks. Also sometimes a smidgen of a turn to the left of the needle will fix any tension issues.

Haha.....Listen to me, just like the pros eh

[Tmaus]

Thank you everyone for all the advise. It is so wonderful that you are all so willing to be so helpful!!!!!:cool:

I won't be able to sew until maybe Saturday and then I will do all of these. First the bobbin then the top tension!! got that

And when I can I want to post some pictures. I quilt for American Hero Quilts. I've only done 2 and I just received 2 more and they are beautiful and I always like to see peoples idea's to quilt. So as soon as I can I'm going to get some pictures posted and see what everyone thinks.

For those of you that are not familiar with the American Hero Quilts it is an organization that makes quilts for the injured soldiers. We want every injured soldier to receive a quilt and most of them are red, white and blue. I thought they all were but I just received one that is browns and has horses on it.

Thanks again for all the help,

Tamara Maus

[Ferret]

Apparently I have the brother of this machine. My machine hates bobbins set 'correctly'. 10-11 is about perfect for me too. I have to admit I don't use the gauge much, even with a new bobbin case I can feel it to about right then tweak based on the stitch.

Ferret

Originally posted by TracyeQ

I have to respectfully disagree w/Shannon. If my bobbin drops freely to the floor it might STILL BE TOO TIGHT! That's why I had to buy a Towa gage.

I had my previous machine for 3 yrs and dropping freely to the floor was the perfect setting, but w/my Freedom SR it was too TIGHT! I had to buy a gage so I could have a number for freer than free. Now that I know what my machine likes I set any bobbin to that and then do any minor tweaking needed to the top thread.

Example...my machine likes bobbin tension at 10-11 (100-110 on the new gages) and when I went to run a BL prewound the other day they were pulling thru the gage at almost 300! I had to really loosen up my bobbin to get it to the right setting for my machine and was then able to go along like normal.

When I went back to my Maxi Loc in the bobbin just tightened it back to where THAT ran at 110. Easy peasy.

If I get everything looking right but the top thread keeps breaking I know I need to loosen it. If it makes things wonky, then I'll loosen up the bobbin to match.

Does that make sense?

[Quilting Heidi]

I'm with you Ferret. I was having all kinds of tension issues, mostly the bobbin laying flat on the back. Shana told me how she sets her bobbin and walla no more problems. I put my bobbin case in my hand and give a pull. I can not lift the bobbin out of my hand but the bobbin pulls up slightly as if you could. Hope that is clear as mud. The key here is that you just have to figure out which way your machine likes it and that takes playing! Once you figure out the perfect match you will be set and off to doing what you want to do...Quilting!

[IBQLTN2]

Tamara

we do the quilts for the injured soldiers as well but the organization is called Quilts of Valor. recently one of the members of the SC Quilts of Valor got a phone call from the mother of a soldier who had recieved a QOV at Walter Reed after being seriously injured in Iraq. It seems that the soldier from SC recieved a QOV from our SC chapter of Quilts of Valor. The label had the piecer and quilters names, city and state. The mother of the soldier called an personally thanked her and told how many service men and women were at Walter Reed with Quilts of Valor on their beds and what a tremendous comfort it is to all of them. Needless to say both the mother and piecer were in tears by the end of the conversation. So yes, our efforts do make a tremendous difference. I believe that your organization is basically the same as Quilts of Valor

[TracyeQ]

Yeah Ferret, I'm w/you on the gage. I don't use it every bobbin, mostly just the first one then maybe one later, but usually only if I'm having to make changes.