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My Yurt is Starting! My Yurt is Starting!!


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Hi Linzi...I didn't want to just paint the floor. Did that years ago with a garage and wheels used to make the paint peel. Since we'll have office chairs on wheels, I didn't want to deal with that one. And I LOVE red...I bet your red floor is gorgeous!

Open house, Bonnie?? Don't hold your breath! We were going to have an open house when we built our second house (after the first one burned down), but its still not finished...its been years! I think you'll just have to come visit--no "event" required.

I will be taking lots of pictures...I already started taking ones when Dennis and our friend were digging the footings. Even that little bit was exciting for me.

Sharon, look at smaller log homes, too, especially if you're thinking of putting a yurt on a concrete foundation! The bid from our contractor was a bit more than we'd thought, but the majority of the cost is the concrete. We're doing radiant heat in the floor, too, so that makes things even more expensive, but also, hopefully, more efficient; our County won't allow a non-renewable resource for heat, which means we can only officially heat with wood.

Sheri thanks for the #. I looked at Behr's site this a.m. and got the basics; so when we're ready, I'm going to call them and make sure we're doing it correctly. I was so disappointed when I read that the concrete has to cure for 30 days. I was hoping to pour the floor, then stain, then put the yurt up and do the interior walls and move in. Now I'm thinking we'll pour, put the yurt up, do the interior walls and wait out the 30 days before moving the longarm and other furniture items in.

Judi, we're gong to practice staining on our barn floor since getting someone who knows what they're doing here is impossible. Bobbi...maybe you should "accidentally" spill something horrid on your carpet--then you'd have to remove it, right??;)

I love it Abigail...aunts and uncles of my yurt. I haven't named it yet, so maybe a contest of sorts is in order. We less than creative when it comes to naming things around our house (the Toyota is "Ota" for example; the Harley is "Harry," you get the point). So a really cool name for the yurt would be fun and then I could tole paint it on a board to hang above the door....I like it!!

Kerry, I'm thinking that since we have to wait before we can do the floor, I may take that time to experiment a bit with the stain color...maybe try to do some sort of fake tile or shading? I doubt I'll go as far as the mariner's compass though...

This really is fun...I'm so glad I have you all to share this with!!

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Dory, if you haven't poured the floor yet...then acid stain it! That is the best anyways. The floor only needs to cure for a couple of days max, then the acid goes on and gives a gorgeous coloring. Look into it.

I thought that the floor had already been poured! The floor can't be sealed for at least 28 days, after proper curing, but that shouldn't be a problem.

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My new floor is wood, painted burgundy red. I love the look, but you are right Dory, the paint is chipping a bit & it's only a few months old. The studio's name is "Area 51" but I don't have a sign -- good idea.

I have seem some gorgeous faux marble done on concrete; that could look great & doesn't look that hard, for someone with artistic ability, as I'm sure you are. I would have done it myself, but if you have concrete floors around here, more centipedes get in.

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Yes, Linzi...there will be a squirt, but its indoors. We're sectioning off a very tiny area that will have a full bath with a teeny-tiny shower and a kitchen counter on the protruding wall. I want to be able to make coffee, heat water in a microwave for tea and have a small refer. (easier to show pics when its done than explain it)

Ours is the 24' yurt (I wanted the 30, but we didn't have enough room) and has 452 sq. ft. I will have a design wall (somehow) and if the floorplan I drew up actually works, my husband will have his embroidery machines and heat press in it as well. If not, he'll just be on the porch:D

Kristina, what is acid stain? We found a company that our local concrete company deals with that dyes the concrete...is that the same? I'm going to see if I can figure that out...

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Hopefully this article will expain what acid-etch staining is:

http://www.concretenetwork.com/stained-concrete/

Most acid stains are a mixture of water, hydrochloric acid, and acid-soluble metallic salts. They work by penetrating the surface and reacting chemically with the hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) in the concrete. The acid in the stain lightly etches the surface, allowing the metallic salts to penetrate more easily. Once the stain reacts, it becomes a permanent part of the concrete and won't fade, chip off, or peel away.

Seriously, this is the best way to go for NEWLY poured concrete. If the concrete is older, the acid staining loses its effect as the lime hydrates out of the concrete.

Check it out. And feel free to keep asking questions. Are you and Dennis going to pour and finish the concrete yourselves? Or is a contractor going to do it? You will want to acid etch it while it is fairly fresh...and not add a curing compund to the surface of the mud.

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I looked at pictures of yurts. I am so impressed with them! This is such a cool idea. My yard is so small, I barely have enough room for the squirt! (Just love that explanation.) HA.

Please share pictures of your progress; it will be very interesting.

Linzi - How's your quilted yurt coming along? Also, loved hearing about your yurtains. :)

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Dory,

aaah yes, ALL concrete products need to "cure" for 30 days.

It enables the stain to "remain" in the concrete.

Even tho it appears thoroughly dry, and you can walk on it, the concrete continues to "breathe out" so to speak, moisture. Once it's cured and set, any products may be applied to it.

Also, per Judi Burr's response of why sometimes it looks like children have applied it...you NEED to use the CORRECT products to apply it! And, if any, follow up with any products that will "seal" it (if applicable). Not all products require a final seal treatment. READ the label on the back of the can thoroughly!

If using a roller to roll it on the floor, make SURE you use a roller specific to the product you are using! NOT just ANY paint roller will do! *****

99% of all "do it yourselfers" will attempt to do some neat finish work to something, and think they will save the $3 extra by buying the "cheap" roller, instead of the one designed for that specific product. **end result**...may not last very long, as the cheap roller may not allow "enuf" stain IN the roller itself to roll off the roller, onto the surface being stained, and enuf stain therefore, to penetrate the concrete/wood, or whatever it is.

Sorry, got into my old saleswoman's warning speach, but, better safe than sorry!

I didn't win 15 gold customer service awards in one year for nothing~!

KNOW your product....and follow directions = a happy end result.

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