jimerickson

Bobbi: Check the wheels again. My guess is that they need tightening. With the Lenni, you shouldn't need to change motor speed if you're running it in stitch regulated mode. If you're running it in manual mode, I'd ask why? Ever since I had the Intellistich regulator installed on my Ult 2 nine years ago I've used manual mode, maybe twice. So much easier to use regulated. Jim

You must use stabilizer on the back of all the knit fabric. I've done way more of these than I'd have liked (think hate) and they are almost impossible to do without it. You say "Ultimate !!. Is that Ult 2 ? I have one, but I use my Gammill most of the time for T shirt quilts because it has an hopping foot, and the the Ult 2 doesn't. The presser foot of the Ult 2 doesn't work very well on knits. Jim

Price?

I don't want to argue with the folks at the factory but, I have a 1997 Ult 2 that I converted to M hook nine years ago without any apparent problems. Now maybe quilting only 500 quilts on it since the modification isn't heavy enough usage to reveal a future problem I will have, but I'm not worried. I can't believe that my gear box is heavier than your Millie's, so unless the gear boxes are in fact different, I'd take the chance. Jim

Do you have the panto laid out on the table straight? Is your lazer clamped tight? I'd check the layout by putting a pin in the top most position for the panto on each end of the quilt. Then I'd check to see if the lazer matches both points when you move the machine. If it does your line up is OK. If not, adjust the pattern so the points match your quilt marks. It's possible that your rollers are slipping and the quilt is moving as you quilt. Check that out as well. Good luck. Jim

I replaced my needle clamp screw with an Allan head screw long ago. IMHO a great decision, and I highly recommend it. Much easier to properly fit an Allan wrench in the socket, than a screw driver in the slot. You're also much less likely to over torque the screw with the tiny Allan wrench. I have to disagree with Cagey about "finger tight" needle clamp screw. On more than one occasion I've had the needle come out while sewing, and I'll assure you I had the screw more than finger tight. A good snug twist fro the Allan wrench will usually do the trick. Jim

Just checked the APQS store for parts, and found the following: M hook: $215. M bobbin case: $54. M bobbin: $3, and M finger: $15. That's $287 total for the parts. Then it's just a matter of replacing the old parts with the new, and adjusting the machine to make them work. Jim

Sheltie: I think you're confusing it with some other up-grade. All you need is the appropriate M hook, M bobbin case, and M bobbin basket retaining "finger". Then it's just a matter of replacing the old L hook with the M, adjusting the needle bar height for the larger hook, and timing the machine. Jim

Sorry to see her go. I hope she prospers with her new endeavors.

Don't know about the clamps, but you should be able to remove either roller. Floating the tops, I'd probably remove the backing roller since it's the most distance from the machine. Using just the top roller would allow you to get closer to your stitching. Hope this helps. Jim

Red: Check your connections and make sure they're clean and bright. You might not be getting a good connection when you plug it in. Good luck. Jim

Seems difficult to me. Maybe "the Quilt Show" was referencing sit down long arms, not rail systems. Jim

I took the other approach. I retrofitted my Ult 2 with an M bobbin system. I use Bottom Line almost exclusively, in my bobbins. I get about 200 to 210 yds on bobbins I wind myself. Jim

Rose: There is a particular place in the front/back travel of the machine that vibrates a lot (harmonic I guess). If you can, try to adjust your pattern so that as little of this position is in the sewing field. (move the quilt sandwich forward or backward to minimumize that area) Also check the adjustment of your wheels. Loose wheels will cause the machine to shake. As Laura suggests, make sure everything is properly oiled. Check all the table bolts to make sure everything is tight as well as level. Good luck. Jim

Jill: I use Bottom Line thread in my bobbins all most exclusively. I love it. What your read about M bobbins creating more tension problems than L is probably opinions of L system owners who have never actually quilted with M's. I've used both, and can assure you that the M system is the way to go. I don't know for sure, but my guess is that APQS changed the take-up roller and leveling roller configuration so that they are closer together so they don't take up as much room in the Lenni's arm. When I built my table, I purposely put the two rollers as close together as I felt I could without creating a problem with capacity on the take up roller. I felt there was wasted space with the factory configuration. As a result, I think I have 1.5 - 2.0 inches more sewing field than the older Lenni's. As for table size: I'd urge you to buy as large a table as you can fit into the space you have. If you don't, someday you'll regret it. Jim

I don't know how you broke your needle. If you banged it on a ruler, you may have changed the needle bar height, and that could be causing your problem. Review the timing instructions, and then compare how your machine looks to that in the instructions. Timing is a bit of a hassle, but you need to master it if you want problem free quilting. Good luck. Jim

Jill: A 12' frame would be a tight fit. I just measured my Ult 2 frame, and it's 12'7" or 12' 8". Since my table is custom built, it may be longer or shorter than a standard Lenni. (probably a little longer) Tight to the wall on one end would let you get around it, but it wouldn't be roomy by any means. As you roll the quilt sandwich up, your sewing field does get smaller. I think mine is probably 1.5" narrower at the end of a king size quilt than at the beginning. Not a big issue, unless you're quilting large pantos. As for on point blocks, a 12" block is too big for Lenni to quilt without rolling the quilt. You'd need a 17" sewing field (almost all of what a Millie offers) to do the entire block. However, I've found most designs can be broken down into smaller segments, and done in pieces. Like I said before, it can be done, it just takes more effort. As for bobbin size, if you have the option, by all means get the M bobbin, not the L. The larger bobbin really does make life easier. I converted my Ult 2 to an M bobbin a few months after I got her, and consider that one of the most important up-grades I've made. In my experience, most tension issues begin with bobbin changes. The M bobbin holds twice the thread the L bobbin holds. Half as many changes, half as may tension issues. Good luck. Jim

Please share with us what was wrong, and how you fixed it. It will help others who might have a similar problem. Thanks. Jim

Interesting way to float a top. Price?

Jill: Brenni hasn't visited this sight since she sold her Lenni, so you might not get a reply from her anytime soon. I have a tricked out Ult 2 which isn't exactly the same as a Lenni, but they share the same basic sewing head, as does your George. This one had a 10' table which is a bit unusual. Most have 12' tables. Unless you absolutely can't fit a 12 footer in, or you can make a great buy on one like this, I'd recommend you buy 12', not the 10'. As far as quilt size goes. This 10' table should have been able to handle a quilt up to about 100 inches wide. You reference an "XL twin" as an example. I'd remind you that you could easily orient such as quilt on your leaders so that it could be any length you'd like. The only size that would be an issue would be a quilt that is more than 100 inches in both width and length. A pretty good size king. The quilting field on my Ult 2 is about 14" wide. I think the factory Lenni's are a little bit less - 12.5" to 13.5" or so. As for frame quilting compared to a sit down quilting, it pretty much is an issue of standing or sitting (although a rolling saddle stool will let you sit and quilt on the frame). If you don't like to stand the Lenni might not be the right choice. On the other hand if you're tired of wrestling with the quilt to do free motion quilting, then you'll probably love Lenni. What type roller system you buy is purely a matter of choice. Wheels or wheels and linear bearings. I find nothing wrong with all wheels, others seem to really value the linear bearings. It's only a matter of your willingness to pay for the bearings. The linear bearings are better, not worth it to me, but obviously worth it to some others. I must emphasize, my Ult 2 is custom made for me, so it really suits my desires, as such a Lenni might not suit me as well, but I am very happy with it. I sometimes think I'd like it better if it were bigger, and then other times am happy it is the size it is. I guess that's really an issue of speed of production. There's nothing that can be done a bigger machine that can't be done (maybe there is - wide pantos) on a Lenni. It just might take a bit more time to do it. Whether you should go from George to Lenni, is a matter of standing vs sitting, and wrestling vs freely moving the machine. Hope this helps. Jim

Carefully check your thread path. It sounds like you might have upset the threading. Make sure all the guides are properly threaded, and that the thread is properly seated in the tension disks. Good luck. Jim

Are you using black batting? When ever I do a dark backed quilt with cotton batting, I opt for black batting. Saves a lot of frustration. Jim

I've never seen one of these before. I think you've probably pretty well figured out how to use it. I might consider using a rod to roll the quilt up on as it's completed and stored in the "tray. I think the grey tubing that's laying in the front black channel, is probably intended to hold the quilt "sandwich" in place as you quilt. Get yourself some inexpensive materials, and try it out. As you work, the function of the various pieces will probably become apparent. Good luck. Jim

Red: When I've encounter this kind of problem, it typically is because the tension is too low. I normally resolve it by changing top tension (increasing it). There are however, a couple of other issues you might look at. Your hopping foot adjustment might be one. Is this quilt sandwich thinner than those your normally use? If it is, you might not be getting enough foot pressure to make good stitches. Since you've changed needles, the chance you have a dull needle has been eliminated. If you hadn't, it might have been a dull needle. If you haven't completely resolved the problem, try spraying the thread cone and all your guides as well as the needle itself, with silicone. That will help the thread slide through the sandwich. One more thing to check: The thread path. Make sure your machine is threaded properly and that the take up spring is adjusted and working properly. Once in a while my thread will get out of place and that shows up as missed stitches. The last thing is your timing. If it isn't right, you'll skip stitches. Check and make sure. Good luck. Jim

You might be missing the fact that the original post looking for the machine dates back more than 5 years. Pretty old. Jim