jimerickson

Catcher: I think it will. I believe the same support piece was used on all the APQS models. (the adjustable bar that rests on the leveling roller) I have an Ult 2 and I think I shortened mine, but I don't really remember-it was seven or eight years ago. Try putting it on your machine. You'll know right away if it fits. Jim

Lisa: If you're really planning to go into business, buy the APQS. The machines are better, and the product support is unmatched. Owners can do almost any service required on APQS because of the simple design, and factory support both with parts and hands on help. I can't say enough about how helpful the folks in Iowa are. You'll still be using the APQS you buy today, twenty years from now. When you're your own service person, you don't need to worry about how close the dealer is. Jim P.S. I own a 21 year old APQS, and would be hard pressed to find another machine I'd rather have.

Bing: The Gammill table requires that you raise the take-up roller as you quilt. It's better than the others because you only have to crank at one end (the A-1 Elite table may also lift the take-up roller with a single crank-I don't remember). I have a Gammill Classic, so I'm used to raising the take-up roller on it. Not too wearysome, but a little inconvenient. The throat height would affect how large a rolled up quilt you could put on it without hitting the machine. My APQS Ult 2 has an 8.5" throat height, and I can put at least a 10' quilt on it. (I think it will take a maximum quilt roll of about 6" in diameter. I'm sure the Innova has as much room as you'd need. The 19" sewing field of the 22" Innova is great. My Gammill (a 26" machine) might get you 20" field. The 26" APQS machines won't get you nearly that much. All these machines are light and move easily. If one doesn't, there's something wrong with the wheels or their adjustment. There isn't a machine made that fits all my requirements. Any model would be a compromise for me to some extent. That's why I have a Ult 2 that I've customized to my personal requirements. What does the Innova and Prodigy have in the way of channel locks? The ones I built into my machine are built on Gammill parts. They work great. I've heard complaints about those on the Millie's, I'm not sure whether A-1 Elite has electronic locks, and I know Nolting. I use mine a lot, and I wouldn't want to be without them. Lots of things to consider. Jim

I just looked, and see that Prodigy has a 3 roller system rather than the 4 roller used on the Innova or the APQS. It looks like you have to raise and lower each end independently as well. I liked the manual lift feature of their table just as you do. I do think however, I'd personally trade that for the M bobbin system and the four roller of the Innova. One thing I like about both that it seems like no one ever mentions, is the rotating sewing head. It allows you to remove the head from the table without removing the leveling or take-up rollers. I can't count how many times I would have liked to take one of my machines off the table, but didn't do it because of the need to disassemble the table. Jim

Bing: Pre-wound bobbins will help increase L system bobbin capacity a little, but the M system will hold twice the amount of thread. I don't know where you've looked for used Prodigy's, but if it's only here, I wouldn't be surprised you haven't seen many. Have you looked at Longarm University? I imagine Prodigy has a user group too. Maybe they have used machine listings. You might also look at House of Hansen. I think they still have used longarms listed, though I haven't looked there in some time. Jim

Bing: If you think you will quilt professionally, do yourself a favor, and only consider the following manufactures: A-1 Elite, APQS, Gammill, Innova, Nolting, or Prodigy. They are industrial quality, and all offer good product support. As far as repairs go, you probably won't need any. I don't know too much about the Innova or the Prodigy, but the others are pretty simple and straight forward so most of the service needed you can do yourself. Jim

Luey: I don't know anything about this machine, but if you look it was offered for sale nearly 1 1/2 years ago and the seller made just the one post. My guess is that it's no longer for sale. Regards. Jim

Ann: My Zelda, didn't come with roller breaks originally, but since I built my custom table, I built a set. They aren't like APQS's, but they work the same way-put pressure on the roller and keep it from turning. I originally used the non-skid strips you put on your bathtub to keep from slipping, but recently had to replace some, and decided to try Velcro hook. It failed quickly. I've gone back to bathtub strips. They hold better and last longer. Next time one of your's fails give the tub strip a try. The adhesive seems to be much stronger. Jim

Nigel: I think the SERV 7 needle is something that's relatively new. If you look, you'll see that Schmetz made MR needles, but they aren't currently available. I think that Schmetz has discontinued manufacture of the MR's since they developed the SERV 7, and that's why you can't buy them. Jim

Cagey: I think the design of the shape of the eye/thread slot is what makes the Schmetz needle perform better. According to Schmetz the shape produces a more open thread loop which makes it easier for the hook to catch it. I think the stiffer needle shank also helps because the needle is more difficult to deflect. You may or may not have to re-time. On my Ult 2 it sewed fine, I just couldn't stand the noise made by the hook hitting the needle. Nigel: I have heard the story in the past of needles being miss marked, and some SAN 7 needles marked as SAN 11. I think that is probably what happened to you. Unless you looked very carefully at the scarf on both needles, and you're sure they were the same, I doubt that there would be enough manufacturing variation to cause the problem you experienced. Both my machines have Intellistitch regulators on them. I don't think the regulator would cause what you describe. Now adjustment of the regulator, or initial timing of the machine might. I've mentioned to you before that the issues you've had with your single stitch is a regulator (probably needle speed) adjustment issue. Timing is a little more iffy for me because I converted from the L hook to the M hook, and with no one ever doing that before, it took a while to learn everything I about that change. I don't know if I mentioned to you or not, but I think I chose the wrong hook for my conversion. That choice introduced some issues that took me several years to sort out. Long and short of it is that because of those issues, I'm not sure how exacting the hook position in the scarf is. I always used the "bottom third" of the scarf as the hook position. If I set the hook higher in the scarf, I'd hit and damage the needle when the needle deflected only slightly. I finally realized that the hook (one like used in my Gammill) would be better if it's shape was a bit different (thus my belief that a different M hook would have been a better choice) and that was the problem. A couple of moments on the grinder solved that. Now I can set the hook anywhere in the scarf without the needle hitting it when slightly deflected. I've found that setting the hook closer to the center of the scarf reduced some of the stitch quality problems I initially had. Where is your Ult 1 set? It sounds like you might benefit by using the Schmetz SERV 7 needle. Simply swapping the MR needle you're currently using out for the Schmetz might do fine. Heidi runs her Millie with Schmetz needles without resetting the timing. I'd send you one to try, but they're inexpensive enough you could simply buy a 10 needle pack to test them. I'm convinced they've improved my stitch quality, and I'm sold on using them. Jim

I thought I'd update you all on my experience with my long arm needles. Since I last reported, I've re-timed my Gammill to run the Schmetz SERV 7 needles. I can recall breaking only one needle, and it was with the Gammill, and was on a very heavy seam. Not the kind of deflection break one gets by moving the machine, but simply breaking because it couldn't penetrate the layers of fabric. I never damage the needle point anymore, and seem to be able to use a needle endlessly without changing it. The stitch quality has improved on both my machines. I now have much less directional tension change than I did before. The stitches when I sew a circle, are almost the same all around the circle. I almost never encounter missed stitches anymore. The Schmetz SERV 7 needles have performed so well that they are what I now use. In fact I've given the sizable stock of Singer and Groz-Beckert MR needles I had to a friend, and don't intend on using them again. Jim

Carmen: I don't know about your ceiling height, but I have installed track lights both over my Ult 2, and in our quilting studio. I started with halogens for both applications, but because of heat, have gone to LED's. They have served me/us well. Lots of light, and almost no heat. I used PAR 30's over my machine, and PAR 38's for general illumination (actually the general is pretty much set up as task lighting-one of the great characteristics of track lighting). The track over my machine is mounted on 1.5" square tubing, which spans my room and is mounted on the end walls. The mounts are about 6.5' above the floor. Maybe this will help you and your husband out. Good luck. Jim

Randee: I think the foot that comes standard will probably serve your needs for ruler work, at least initially. When you get lots of experience you might then want to get some specialty attachments. Jim

From what I've heard, No. Shrinkage and distortion being the problem. I don't have first hand experience however, so I might be wrong. Best buy a new set. Jim

Just: This post is over 3 years old, and about a machine made by a manufacturer not represented on this forum, so I doubt Bonway will respond. That being said, I once owned a Ken Quilt 622. Mine was the long model - don't think they've made that particular machine for at least 10 years - and since then, I've owned 3 other machines. Does that tell you something? I sold mine on e-Bay 8 years ago for $650. The 622 is a Singer model type 96 industrial sewing machine set up for frame quilting. It's a heavy cast iron machine. I think mine weighed over 70 lbs. While you may be able to buy one very reasonably, I think you'd be better served saving your money and putting it toward a real purpose built longarm. An APQS Ult ll would be a much better choice if you're looking for an economical longarm system. In fact that's one of the machines I bought and I'm still using it today with both pride and satisfaction. As far as machine details for the 622 goes, I think a schematic for a Singer type 96 would probably do. Hope this helps. Jim

Unusally: The Quiltazoid is a tool that lets you mount pattern templates, sew circles and create spirographic patterns and the like with the appropriate attachments. Really a neat tool. Unfortunately they are no longer manufactured. The only way you could get one is buy a used one. Ones comes offered here occasionally, but not often. Jim

Nic: I've sold most of my Featherweights, but I think I still have a 222. I'm not home right now, but when I get home this evening I'll check and PM you. Thanks for the interest. Jim

IMHO anything smaller than 20" is limiting, and anything over 25 or 26" puts you a long way from some of what you are sewing. I think the BIG machine (28"-36") is really designed with computers in mind. You can set up a large area to be quilted and let the machine go to it without having to move or re-calibrate. The best choice for someone, is something suited for the type quilting you plan to do. Now for someone just starting out, it's a difficult call because you probably don't know what type quilting you're going to end up wanting to do. My rule of thumb would be: If you plan on doing a lot of detailed custom, go with a smaller machine (20"-24"). If you plan on doing mostly pantographs, go with a bigger machine (24"- 28"), and if you plan on doing computer driven stuff, go with the big machines. It is probably worth your time to carefully look at each manufacturers machines to see exactly how much area (front to back) their machine can quilt. Not all 26" machines have the same sewing "field". Some "smaller" machines may give you more "field" than nominally larger ones. The shape of the machine, and the way the table is configured affects it's sewing "field". For instance, three roller tables generally give you more "field" than four roller ones. Similarly, square throated machines will give you more "field" (assuming similar outside dimensions), than oval shaped ones. Carefully checks the specs, and take a tape measure and check for yourself when you look at them. There may also be convenience issues to consider. Unfortunately, there is a trade off with which ever you choose. In the final analysis, who builds your machine might be the most important consideration. Not all manufacturers support their products equally. Go with someone you know you can trust to answer questions, have parts available for both current and past products, and provide prompt reliable service. Jim

Beatrice: I've had similar problems in the past. I prefer providing the batting unless the customer insists on supplying it. I used to use Hobbs 80/20 black batting when I had dark or red back. Now unless the customer refuses, I use Hobbs wool. It doesn't beard, is light weight and, and has a beautiful loft. Give it a try. Jim

Lora: I think what your'e doing is adjusting the single stitch position, or the needle speed, not adjusting the needle bar height. Needle bar height adjustment is done inside the sewing head, and involves loosening the clamp on the arm that moves the needle bar up and down, and changing the limits of the needle travel. I've had some issues with my I/S single stitch, and adjusted it several times in the five years since the I/S was installed. I haven't had to adjust it for some time now. If you follow the entire I/S adjustment protocol as outlined in their manual, rather than just the single stitch adjustment, you might be able to get the adjustment to hold for a longer period. It may be that your needle speed needs to be set first. Good luck. Jim

Lora: If you have to adjust the needle bar height frequently, you haven't tightened it enough when you put it back into service. It shouldn't be pushed out of place unless you hit something solid really hard. Next time you set it, put more torque to the clamp so it doesn't move so easily. Jim

C: If you want an inexpensive entry machine, buy a used APQS Ult 2. They work great, no design problems with the machine, and even though these are relatively old machines, the customer support is outstanding. The old tables aren't quite as convenient as newer ones, but they work well. The machine offers a platform for future upgrades if you decide you want more as you develop quilting skills. I bought one six years ago, and have absolutely no regrets. Jim

C: I think you're confusing Pennywinkle with Prodigy. The Innova and the Prodigy do look similar. However, I'm sure ABM designed their own machine. As large as ABM is, and as long a manufacturing history as they have, I don't think they would need to, nor chose to "knock off" someone else's design. The Chinese are the ones known for that. If you look out on the internet, you'll find at least one Chinese made look alike. Jim BTW, from what I hear, the Prodigy is a good machine. I especially like the user friendliness of their table.

C: There's nothing wrong with the wooden tables. In some respects they're better than the metal frame ones. There is however some difference with the 3 roller, roller racks on the wooden table machines. Not quite as convenient as the newer 4 roller set ups. My table is a wooden one that I rebuilt the roller rack system for. I wouldn't trade it for a newer metal one. I did the entire modification myself, but I could have taken it to a welding shop and had them do it for me. Not all that involved. Jim

C: If I were buying a new machine it would be an Innova. That being said, I'd be pretty happy with an APQS, A-1, Gammill, Nolting, or Prodigy. There are things I like about each, and things I don't like. I have an APQS Ult 2 ca. 1997, and a 2000 Gammill Classic. Both were unregulated machines when I got them. Helen and her husband Tony came to my house and studio in early 2011 and installed Intellistitch regulators on both. The Intellistich regulator is great, and I'm happy with both. The only thing I've had to do with them is replace a couple handle switches. You might ask why I say Innova, and there are a few things unique about them that I like. First the head turns on the Innova, so it can be removed from the table without removing the take-up roller. I think maybe the Prodigy's head might also turn. I also like the Lightning digital stitch regulator. I like the table configuration as well, but I'm not quite so sure about the wheels. I don't much like the "erector set" look of the table frame but that just cosmetic. Now I must confess I've only removed the head of my Ult 2 from the table a couple of times, and never on my Gammill, so maybe the turning head feature really isn't a real winner. I don't know about their service, but I've been told the machines are quite problem free. APQS. I don't like their horizontal wheel system. It seems unnecessarily complicated. They've improved it somewhat by using linear bearings on the rails in their Bliss system. But it is expensive. I like their 4 roller system table. I don't really like the batting access system (or more precisely lack of). Their roller configuration accommodates it to some degree. Also on models other than the Millie, there seems to be little adjustment capabilities on the rollers and rails. What I DO like is their customer support and service. It's absolutely great. Gammill: While their tables are well engineered and robust, the batting access system is a joke. I don' think it was designed with how we quilt today in mind. It could be improved, and made simpler by going to a 4 roller system like APQS. The Gammill is strong and dependable. I've heard people refer to them as the Mercedes of quilt machines. But I'd classify them more as the Peterbuilts of quilt machines. The A-1 is a nice machine, maybe the perfect size. The table is very well built, but like the Gammill it's a 3 roller system which requires more adjustment, and adjustment mechanisms that wouldn't be necessary with a 4 roller system like the APQS, Innova or Prodigy. Maybe it's the most user considerate table of all the makes. I don't know much about their service though. It's probably good, but pretty dependent on their MO headquarter. The Nolting Pros are good machines. They use Intellistitch regulators on this line, and the I/S is great. Their tables are well made, but not nearly as refined as the A-1. I think their service is probably quite good. They've made pretty much the same machine/table system for quite some time, so they've had a long time to work out any issues, and I think it's pretty sound. The Prodigy is a nice looking machine. They have a very nice user friendly table. Nice manual lift system (it can be power if you'd like). The one thing holding the Prodigy back as far as I'm concerned, is their rigidly sticking to the L bobbin system. I personally wouldn't consider any other manufacturer. All the machines I've referenced are industrial quality machines built to last decades. While I don't know first hand about support, I think all is pretty good. I can't say that for some of the other machines out there. Size is an interesting issue. It probably has more to do with how and what you quilt than anything else. I personally wouldn't want a machine that wouldn't sew at least 14 inches front to back. Seventeen would probably be better. You have to look at individual machine set ups to see what a machine can actually do. Some smaller measured machines will actually sew a bigger field than other "larger" machines. It has to do with the roller configuration and the "harp" shape of the machine. You can feel pretty secure buying a used model of any of these machines. If there's something wrong with the machine when you get it, it can be repaired and put back into excellent service, but probably there will be nothing wrong to begin with. These machines don't break. Pick a price point, and buy with confidence. This is my personal opinion. I'm not promoting one machine over any other. What I've said reflects the experience I've had, how I personally quilt, and my own personal likes and dislikes. I'd probably be happy with any of them. Jim