jimerickson

LinneaMarie: Shana's right about the fabric, but I'd like to add that the 80/20 batting you're using isn't the best when it comes to bearding as well. I prefer to use a poly or more preferably, wool because they don't beard. I don't use 80/20 much anymore unless the customer wants cotton batting. Jim

Try starting (moving the machine) slower. You may be out running the stitch regulator when you begin to sew. Jim

What is the price?

You should be able to get a pretty good ides as to whether the hook needs polishing without removing it, by 1) looking carefully for scratches, and 2) running your finger over the various hook parts feeling for any damage. A couple of basic questions: Have you checked the machine timing? If it is slightly out of time, the top thread may not be being released timely, causing the thread to be overly stressed. Are you using the proper type needle? If they are the Singer type (which includes Gros-Beckert) they should be MR, SAN 11 size 3.0 to 5.0. If they are something else, the needle may be your problem. Did your manual include photos of proper timing? If so, make sure your machine is adjusted exactly as pictured. If you don't have photos, look on APQS's website for examples. BTW, I think all the Ult 2 manuals were photo copied pages held in a binder, at least that's what mine is like. The timing photos however, are actual excellent quality black and white photos. When looking at the machine timing, pay particular attention to the needle bar adjustment. I seem to remember having a similar thread issue with my machine shortly after I bought it, and it turned out to be that the needle bar was set too deep. Raising the needle bar so the needle eye position exactly matched the proper timing photo, solved the problem. Good luck. Jim

It sounds like the spring tension might be the issue. You can tighten the spring tension by removing the tension assembly, loosening the set screw, rotating it against the spring, tightening up the set screw and replacing it in the machine. When you return the assembly to the machine, make sure that the spring is set at the 10:30/11:00 position when it is "resting". Good luck. Jim

Loretta: Both Laura and I have Intellistitch stitch regulators on our machines, so our "unregulated" experience is in the distant past. That being said, shredded thread isn't only a problem of unregulated machines. Is there any particular quilting action where the shredding happens? If so, that might give us a clue. I personally use YLI Longarm Professional as top thread almost exclusively. The strongest longarm thread I've found. It is possible that you have a burr somewhere on your hook assembly. Examine it very carefully, and if you fine one polish it down with fine emery cloth. Good luck. Jim

That sounds a lot like Intellistitch's manual with stop/start, except rather than pulsing, the Intellistitch actually stops stitching until you move it again. You can turn that Intellistich feature off and have it stitch when you stop, but why would you want to? Jim

PJ: You can see from the photo that the machine is not Bliss equipped, and due to the age of the machine, it's a pretty sure bet that it has an L bobbin. Jim

I don't really have any idea, because I've never had experience with APQS's Quilt Glide. However, what I know from my Intellistitch regulator, is that "manual" is not stitch regulated, so the only control you have over stitch length is the speed at which you move the machine, or the stitching speed you set. If the stitch length is controlled by the machine, it would be stitch regulated, not manual. Jim

I'm quite surprised to hear that the pig tail guide on the bobbin case has been broken. Something must have hit it. Or maybe there is a confusion of terms, and what's talked about is the bobbin thread, not the pig tail guide. At any rate, since the Ult 2 originally came without a pig tail equipped bobbin case, I'd just replace it with the original type. The broken off pig tail bobbin case might work just fine, but I think the needle opening for those cases is much larger than the original, and that might lead to other stitching problems. Jim

Kat: Is it possible that the original needle broke in more than on place? It sounds like something is limiting how deep the new needle will set in the needle bar. Maybe the original needle end is still in the needle bar, or perhaps the set screw is blocking proper seating of the new needle. Give it a close examination. Good luck. Jim

Nicole: I guess stitch tightness is a matter of personal choice. I like tight stitches and probably run my machines tighter than most other quilters. As long as they are even and there is no thread breakage I'm OK. I run my bobbin tension at about 210 on my TOWA bobbin tension gauge, and set the top tension to produce a balanced stitch. Since my Ult 2 has an Intellistitch regulator, not one made by APQS, I can't advise you on adjustments, however I think there was a post in the last week or two about slow single stitch time, and there were references noted that should help you with that issue. Search recent posts and I'm sure you'll find it. Good luck. Jim

I don't think you'd want to make that kind of an investment on run of the mill Ult 2. You'd be better off looking for a more modern model that already has the Bliss table. Jim

I just checked, and there are a couple of Bernina 830 Records with knee lifts for sale on e-Bay in your price range. Old machines ('80's manufacture dates). I have one, and it's been a good machine, made in Switzerland. You might take a look. Jim

I don't. Jim

Vera: Tighten your top tension. Tighten it until the bobbin thread is being pulled to the top, then begin loosening it until you get a nice balanced stitch. This advice assumes you've check the thread path and made sure everything is in it's proper place, and that your bobbin case is clean and the backlash spring is working properly, and that it's threaded and adjusted properly. Also make sure your take-up spring is working properly. On my Gammill when I experience this problem, most likely the thread isn't properly threaded through the take-up spring, and not being pulled up when the stitch is made. Good luck. Jim

I'm not sure since I don't know what your encoders look like, but I think there is probably a screw that the spring mounts on that you can turn to increase or decrease tire pressure. Good luck. Jim

Check the encoders to make sure they are turning when you move the machine. Good luck. Jim

Cat: You need to get the machine up and running before you begin to accumulate stuff to go with it. The type of quilting you do will dictate some of the accessories you'll want. After you use it a while, check back with details on your specific needs. Enjoy. Jim BTW. like Laura, I also have a ult 2. She's right, you can't break these machines.

Which "spring" are you referring to?

Unless you experience skipped stitches when sewing with the 3.0 needle, I don't think you would need to re-time your machine. The difference in needle diameter is quite small and shouldn't have much of an impact on stitch creation. Jim

I just looked, and see that there is a significant difference in the geometry of the tables. I think the deluxe table would be an improvement, but before you venture in to that extreme action, make sure everything on your standard table is as it should be. One question. When you modified your Lenni table to accept Lucey, were the wheel/linear bearing rails left at the original spacing, or did the front rail (not the roller, but the wheel rail) get moved out toward the front of the machine? Have your husband check every joint on the table and make sure all fasteners are properly set, and tight. Pay particular attention to the leg assemblies. Does everything fit together properly? Jim

What's the difference between the standard and deluxe tables? Knowing that might, help me have some in site to performance aspects of both. Jim

Sherry: You might check with U-SHIP about shipping. Ten years ago I had my Ult 2 shipped from FL to TX. They handled the shipping and it was really easy. Did a great job. It's an online service where independent shippers will bid on shipping jobs. At the time I used it, they offered several different levels of service.

Tom: Check to make sure your encoders are working properly. A "tire" may be bad, but more likely the wheel isn't making proper contact with the frame. You might need to increase the spring tension to proved more reliable contact. Good luck. Jim