jimerickson

One of the arguments for buying APQS machines. Jim

Zeke hasn't visited this forum since Aug 23. I doubt you'll get a reply anytime soon. Jim

See my comments on you other post. Jim

Barb: Given the unusual fabric choice (knit backing), I'd suggest changing the thread you're using. King Tut is notorious for being difficult even when used with common quilt fabrics. Try replacing it with a strong poly thread. I think you'll have fewer problems. Jim

Stace: Since alwaysquilts hasn't visited the forum for nearly seven years, I doubt you'll receive a reply. If your machine labors and stitches slowly, you may have thread wrapped around the hook, or wrapped around the thread take-up assembly. If so, remove all the thread, oil, and see if that doesn't correct the problem. Good luck. Jim

On the other identical post I mentioned I made myself a similar set. I however, use mine differently. I hook the "loop" end over the leveling roller, not the backing roller. Jim

I just made me a very similar set a few weeks ago. These look good. Jim

We have a Pacific Steam gravity feed iron we've been using for 7 or 8 years now. It's great! It never leaks, and does not shut off automatically. It's used by 6 or 8 quilters two or three days a week.(on all day when we sew) It's a bit on the heavy side, but does a great job. We've had Rowentas and Ollisos, none of which performed flawlessly. None was very durable. The gravity feed irons aren't portable, but they do work well. We highly recommend them. Do buy one with the hand heat shield, however. I have friend who bought a gravity feed (another brand) without the heat shield, and she finds it too hot for her hand. I think I paid about $150 for it in 2011. Jim

Sew scrap strips of fabric to the ends and sides to give yourself enough room to clamp. I would have had the owner do that before accepting the job. Jim

Pat: Do you use your channel locks to keep the quilt square? That should help some. Fabric stretches, especially long border pieces of fabric without piecing seams. In the future, make an effort to "square" the quilt each time you roll it. Use the locks to maintain vertical lines on the edges, and across the quilt wherever there is a horizontal line. You may have to quilt in some fullness each time you roll. If you pull the top tight, you may be moving any fullness in the piecing to the bottom corners. Hope this helps. Jim

I've meant to correct the misconception about this "gunk" for years now, and I guess now is the time. The black material you see here is not simply aluminum oxidation. There might be some there, but most of it is something else. I believe it is cotton dust, sizing, and dye, along with the dust we find in the air all the time. "How can I be so sure" you ask. Because I have anodized tracks on both of my machines, and I still have the black build up. Anodized aluminum does not oxidize. It is a coating created to specifically deal with aluminum's propensity to oxidize. I don't think APQS bothers to anodize their table rails, the ones for my Ult 2 were raw aluminum, which I had anodized myself. The Ult 2 carriage was anodized when I got it, as are the rails on my Gammill. I still get that black build up on them. I haven't addressed this issue before, because dealing with it, whether aluminum oxidation, or simply dirt, is the same; clean the rails with some evaporating solvent. But I've decided to set the record straight so someone else doesn't have parts of their table anodized in hopes of eliminating the problem. Jim

Draggingbutt: The reason you don't see issues with the Quilt Path discussed here isn't because there aren't any, but because the Quilt Path group only allows Quilt Path owners to visit the site, and you must be invited to join. Jim

The M bobbin holds almost twice the thread that the L bobbin holds. Jim

Perhaps too basic, but you do know that seams will push your machine off line? I have constant issues with seams when doing SID. Just something I've learned to live with. Jim

When I get loops, it is usually because there is something wrong with the upper tension. Try tightening and see if the problem goes away. Jim PS: because Tut is cotton, check your bobbin case for hidden lint.

I dislike Moda fabrics for exactly that reason. Rather than being dyed, it appears that the fabric is "painted" and the back side is very light colored. When you sew on it, some of the threads roll over showing the light color of the "wrong" side. The "pokies" aren't really the batting showing through but a problem with the under lying fabric. Jim

The metallic rattling you heard is probably the bobbin basket hitting the finger that controls it's travel. It's hard to fiddle with the hook without rotating it sightly, and that might be what you're feeling. There shouldn't be any play in the hook. It should only rotate and not move any other way. Jim

Peggy: I don't know which winder you have, and I don't have a "official" AQPS winder, but I've had my after market industrial winder stop on me in the past. I solved the problem by removing the motor brushes, blowing the dust out of the motor and de-glaizing the brush surface. If you can get at the motor, you might try that. Jim

Karen: Try tightening up your top tension. Crank it up until the top thread is pulling the bobbin thread to the top, then start loosening it until you get a good balanced stitch. You might try and use contrasting color threads top and bottom to help see the stitches while you are adjusting. Good luck. Jim

Even though this is only a 10 footer, this is a great buy! To the long arm wannabes out there, or the sit down owners that would like to move up to a long arm, consider buying it. Jim

Deetz: The problem might be the backing, but in my experience Hobbs 80/20 is a bit problematic. I've eliminated that problem by using Hobbs' wool. Don't use the 80/20 much anymore. When I did use it, if I had a dark backing, I'd use the black 80/20, not white or natural. You might consider either of these alternatives in the future. Jim

I can't tell for sure, but it looks like your thread is getting caught in the hook's race. If your hook is in good condition, I don't think that should be happening. It would seem there is too much clearance, and the hook needs to be replaced. To test, pull and push on the center post. If there's any movement, the hook is bad and should be replaced. If you need to replace the hook, and you want a larger bobbin, it might be a good time to upgrade with an M bobbin conversion. Jim

I made my suggestions on your other posting. While there are some nice things about the roller assembly/configuration of the Lenni table, I really prefer the original wooden table your Ult 2 came with. If you search my posts back in '12 '13, and '14 you see photos of the modifications I made to my Ult 2 table. I think it's much better than the Lenni table. Jim

Just a suggestion: Take all 3 rollers to the welder/fabricator at the same time. Have him cut off the end without the gear, and then re-weld the shaft caps after the rollers have been shortened. Tell him you want them to all be shortened exactly the same amount. After the rollers have been shortened then take to shortening the actual table top. With the rollers in hand it will be easier to get the top cut to the right length. No chance of measuring errors, or communications mistakes. Good luck. Jim

Sorry, you're right Cagey. I use Heirloom, buy it by the roll. The 96" comes in a 30 yd roll, and the 110" comes in a 25 yd roll. I don't buy the single batts or the small yardage offerings. Jim