jimerickson

Sorry, you're right Cagey. I use Heirloom, buy it by the roll. The 96" comes in a 30 yd roll, and the 110" comes in a 25 yd roll. I don't buy the single batts or the small yardage offerings. Jim

Babs: I use Hobbs legacy wool all the time for my long arm work. Haven't done any hand quilting so no experience there, but I'd guess it would work fine. BTW, I love if for long arm work. My favorite batting. Jim

Deb: Not really a long arm. I had a stretched 622. It was based on Singer 96 industrial machine. It had a 15 inch throat. I noticed a while back that the then current 622's were no longer stretched, just 9". I don't remember what the 633 was. It wasn't one of KenQuilts real long arms. KenQuilt went out of business 5 or 6 years ago. Their "real" longarms were pretty good machines. I don't understand your question about the location of the needle and foot. I think they are in the same place you'd expect to find them on almost any other machine. Jim

I could probably make them for myself, but your most likely best bet, is to contact TinLizzie and try to buy the parts from them. Jim

Allison: Are you wanting to do pantos from the front? If so, there is a Topper for sale here on the forum that I think will work. If that's not what your looking for sorry for the comment. Jim

I don't think so. I have the heat or cooling off in my quilting room all the time, except when I'm actually quilting. Jim

There is no need to remove the needle plate to oil the hook. Snap out the bobbin case, bend over and look at the hook, and put a drop of oil in the hook race. Manually turn the machine back and forth a couple of times to better distribute the oil, snap the bobbin case back in place and you're ready to go. I do this for every sewing session before I begin quilting each day. Jim

Are all the table connections properly adjusted and tight. Are the wheels properly adjusted? Has the machine been oiled? Start at the beginning, search and adjust as you go. Good luck. Jim

It sounds like the needle might be hitting the hook. Is the needle installed properly? Remove the needle,and then re-install it, making sure it's both facing the hook properly, and fully inserted into the needle bar. Jim

Have you checked the adjustment of your wheels? They may be too tight, or more likely, too loose. Loose wheels will make directing the head movement a bit unpredictable. Jim

Your hopping foot pushes the fabric in the direction you are sewing, so as Laura and Connie suggest sew in both directions. Jim

Janet: Have you tried the switches on both ends of the machine? If the opposite set work, then you probably need to replace the switches. If not, you'd better call Gammill for help. Jim

Price? Location? Details.

I bought mine from Quilt tech, and they were specifically for an Ult 2. I don't think Kasa Engineering has made any for Ult 2 for several years. But like I said the Gammill wheels will work. I just checked, and Quilt Tech has Gammill sets listed at $175.00. They are special order because Ray doesn't stock them, but I'll bet he can have them for you in a few days. You can call him and ask about the Ult 2 set, but I don't think he can get you a set of them. BTW, he's happy to talk with anyone interested in his products. Jim

Your machine is just like mine was. The wheels you have on it are the originals. If you looked at my post from Sept 2014, you'd have noted that the ones on my machine now are white polymer ones. Check EdgeRider Wheels listing for Gammill Clasic machines. They'll work on your machine with the addition of some different bolts that you can buy at your local hardware store. Jim

Not those! They're for a Ult 1, completely different from the Ult 2. Jim

If you look at my Sept. 29, 2014 post titled "Ult 2 Table Modifications" and look at the photo of my horizontal channel lock, you can see one of my white Edgerider wheels. That will show you what they look like. Jim

The stock wheels are a narrow, dark brown/grey/black fiber wheel with a groove that rides on the table track. The Edgeriders are a wider (about 3/4") white polymer wheel. Jim

Actually I think you can get an Intellistitch regulator fitted to your machine. My understanding is that Nolting will do the installation, but I think you have to send the machine to them for the up grade. Call their factory and ask. I have an Ult 2 that I had up graded to Intellistitch, and I love it. I had my installation done by Helen B. back in 2011 when she was still doing it. The first thing I'd do is replace the stock wheels (if it still has them) with some after market ones. I have Edgeriders on mine. I don't think Kasa Engineering is still making a set specifically for the Ult 2 anymore, but a set made for a Gammill Classic will work with the simple replacement of some of the bolts supplied in the Gammill kit. As far as needles go, Gros Beckert MR SAN 11 are the proper ones. Good luck, enjoy your "new" machine. Jim

Diane: If the brake is holding only one is needed. The only reason you'd need one at each end is if your roller itself twisted. Being stiff steel, that's not going to happen, so if you have a problem, it's the brake slipping. Jim

It depends on how much, and what kind of light you want. For my application, I think the wattage of my bulbs are 12w - 14w. Hope this helps. Jim

Dawn: If you check, I think you'll find that the Ult 2 has a 20" throat, not the 18" you stated. Don't make them smaller than they actually are LOL. Jim

Nigel: Did you ever get around to trying the Schmetz SERV 7 needles? I don't know if you ever have stitch issues with your Intelliquilter, but if you do I believe the Schmetz needle would help. I can't remember breaking one since I reported that over 2 years ago. I never damage the points anymore either. I also never even bother to change needle sizes these days. I just use the size 16/100 all the time. Jim

Price?

Check to see if the quilt "sandwich" is pressing tight down on the needle plate. If so, raise your leveling roller so that there is about 1/4 inch between the two. Jim