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Sewers Aid


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I have been longarming for nearly nine years and have never found the need for any of this stuff. What sorts of thread problems are you having that are tempting you to use this? I know Sharon Schamber uses the mineral oil and, yes, I think she dunks her threads in them. I love Sharon, think she's a rock star, but I just can't see it. Maybe I can help you avoid using the stuff. Let me know what issues you're having.

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I think it depends on the humidity in your area. When you have 25% humidity, you get a lot of static and Sewer's Aid helps. In a more humid climate, you may never need it. Silicone thread lube is used in commercial applications all the time. It doesn't stain and cuts down on friction. Sharon Schamber wins major quilt competitions all the time, so I suspect she is doing something right. If you want to try the mineral oil, try it on a partial spool of thread in a color you aren't wild about....give it a whirl on a practice piece, let it sit overnight, and see if it works for you without staining. You have a $5 investment in something that may solve your problems...or not. Either way, you aren't out much.

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I have a little box on the side of my machine just under the thread path that you can put sewers aid on the little pads and your thread runs between the pads. Don't know where to get the itemm because when I bought the machine used she had it on there already. I do use it and like how the thread travels better but have also not used it and have not had any real issues but do notice less fuze form thread.

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I sewed in a Lands End luggage factory years ago, and we used sewers aid type thread lube all the time. The machines either had a little container on top with the stuff in it that the thread went through, or you dunked the whole cone in the stuff.

I do as Caroline, I have a wad of cotton batting in my first thread guide above the cone that I put the sewers aid on. I do this because oftentimes the cones that were saturated more than once would have the dried lube flake off like white dandruff. Mind you, some cones were dunked several times as it was used by different machine operators before it was gone, but even though the silicone dandruff was harmless I didn't like the mess we'd have to blow out of our machines at the end of the shift.

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I mainly bought it for my main thread guide but this last quilt I did was a nightmare ,it was a heavy varagated superior thread the quilt owner wanted me to use on it,I just think it was too heavy ,it was just a practice quilt top ,many lessons learned . The main issue was the top thread fraying in all the dark areas ,owner said the thread may have been over dyed . I hope to have time just to play on it tommorrow ,I just love free motion quilting and a serious addiction to feathers ,I ppp for three weeks before I ever stitched any then I did an entire queen quilt in curling feathers and by the time I got to the end you could see the serious improvements . I have learned so much from this forum ,just last week I read a thread on tension springs , mine was worn and had loosened to when it was not rebounding back up to the correct postion ,I would have never caught it because my stitches were still great with my good threads ,and I payed close attention to everything I read ,Sylvia made a comment that it was only 15.00 to replace the whole tension assembly so I did that plus bought a spare spring ,from past experience with dsm I always had bad luck changing them things .I love my used milli ,but it could be scary if i ever test run a new blissed out white one ,lol .

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Queenie, Ive read other comments about threads others have had thevsame issues with. I've never tried mineral oil, but I'm quite comfortable using sewers aid. Squeeze several drops on a wad of batting in a thread guide and see if that does the trick when you're practicing. In the factory, we used the most sewers aid on thread used to sew the deep dyed cotton canvas pieces - the heavily dyed fabrics always were stiffer and felt gritty-dry, like not rinsed enough. Could be the same issue with some color lots of thread.

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Go to ebay and do a search for 'thread lubrication box'. $11.95 free shipping for a magnetic one. Same as we had on the machines in the factory. You can use industrial Velcro to attach as well. The cotton batting scrap in your thread guide with several drops of aide does the same thing, and when your thread eventually makes a looser path in the scrap you just grab another scrap.

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I used to have a box like Cathy on my old machine and it does work great! I need a new one. Sharon soaks her cones in mineral oil and I've tried just running beads and dipping, both work but I prefer the less mess of running beads. I like the mineral oil as well as sewers aid and mineral oil is a lot cheaper. It is not an oil in the essense that it will stain your fabric. I've used it on cotton, synthetic, poly, satin and the like and not had any problems. I have a horrible time with threads on my Viking diamond sometimes and this treatment solves that problem and greatly reduces the lint, another problem. Lint gets in the machine and then it gets to the point where it has to to the shop so anything I can do to reduce that is great. As a general rule I use Superior Masterpiece to piece with and I dipped those cones and then used a paper towel to get off the excess. It does appear to change the thread color but after stitching with it the color is no different. I don't usually have to use it on the longarm but I will try it to see how the stitches look.

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